ROCK AND SNOW AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Crescent GlacierAt about 5 p.m., on August 19, 1982, a large rockfall from the summit area of Bugaboo Spire came down the east face and caused a snow avalanche on Crescent...
FOOTHOLD GAVE WAY-FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlaska, Mount Hunter, Southwest RidgeOn May 26 at 1700, James Raitt(27),James Bonnie (27), Mark Paterson, Darren Swift, Richard Cantrill, and Peter Pollard flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahil...
Storm King Mountain. On July 12, in a long push from Rainy Pass, I did a new route on Storm King Mountain. The north side of the peak has a small pocket glacier with two couloirs at its head. I followed the right one for several hundred feet on 50...
Dave Nettle joined me, in May 2005, on my first excursion to Upper Castle Rocks in Sequoia National Park. We knew of only two routes in the area: The Gargoyle (5.10 A1), on South Guard, and the Beckey Route (5.8 A2) on Amphitheater Dome. After fig...
FALLING ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Louise FallsOn February 22, an ice climber at Louise Falls was injured in an accident similar to a fatal mishap that occurred a year ago at the same location. He was climbing solo and using a d...
Devistan. Our nine-man expedition from West Bengal established Base Camp at 16,000 feet on June 5 and camps at 17,500 and 19,500 on June 6 and 7. On June 8 Stimit Srimany and Pasang Thondup reached the summit of Devistan (6678 meters, 21,910 feet)...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up. Over three days in early June, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims, and I established Pent Up (700', 5.12c) in the Chillumstone Gully on the South Rim. It starts above the Chillumstone (so don’t do the rap), on the sam...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During 1958 the Section had two visitors from among the national officers: President John Oberlin, in May, and Editor Francis Farquhar, in November. On both occasions informal meetings of members were arranged.Harol...
Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to summit ridge. Characterized by long, continuous rock ribs, numerous avalanche paths, frozen waterfalls in winter, and two pointy peaks, it’s surprising how little traffic the north face of Mt. MacDonald has...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. On my latest experience in Patagonia, Maurizio Giarolli and I made an attempt on a new route on Cerro Torre via the northeast pillar and the center of the north face. Unfortunately, bad weather only allowed us to put up a dif...
The drill finally hums. “On belay,’’comes the shout from above. Our rain-soaked drill, chilled by the polar wind, has reached operating temperature again. However, by the time we reach the next hanging stance, the drill has refrozen. A fall at thi...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, SLIP ON SNOW, WEATHERWashington, Mount RainierOn May 29, 1984, at 0900 three groups of U. S. Army Rangers from the Huckleberry Creek Army Training Center just outside of the North Park Boundary left Paradi...
STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO STOVEOregon, Mount Hood, Reid Glacier HeadwallThis incident involved a climbing team that was part of a Portland-area climbing club. The following description of the events leading to the incident on Janu...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone, 1988. Our expedition consisted of Lars Ogenhag and me, Sweden; Peter Herzog, Austria; Mark Jenkins, USA; and Helge Bardseth, Norway. We flew to the region from Isafjördur, Iceland. Except for Bardseth, we all climb...
Men, Women and Mountains, by Sir Claud Schuster, G.C.B., C.V.C. Pp. 143. Ivor Nicholson and Watson, Ltd., London, England, 1931. 12/6.“It is a paradox that mountaineering, whose spiritual impulse is a Wordsworthian desire for solitude, should depe...
Broad Peak Ascent and Tragedy and Attempts on K2. After various reconnaissances on and around K2 by some members of the expedition, on June 22 Andy Parkin and Alan Rouse set off up the normal route on Broad Peak alpine- style. They all felt that t...
Colorado: (5) Rocky Mountain National Park, During the summer of 1950 three other accidents attributable to mountain climbing occurred in this area. A man received a broken clavicle and bruises when he slid down a snow bank in upper Chaos Canyon o...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount BlackburnOn June 16, 1988, a Japanese climbing party of four, led by Yoichi Tadokoro (44) were at the 3200 meter level on the Northwest Ridge of Mount Blackburn when two members were struck after they had traversed about 100...
Masherbrum Attempt and Geological Expedition. Our expedition spent three months in the Baltoro Karakoram with the dual objectives: to conduct a geological survey of K2 and the Gasherbrum group in the northeast to the Shigar valley in the southwest...
Season overview. The Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs saw a ferocious amount of activity this season, particularly during a long spell of good weather in late January and early February. This is the third time in the last few years that an unusual...