Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988. Although the primary aims of the expedition were scientific, there was mountaineering activity. Most peaks over 3000 feet in the area were climbed. Mount Leith (3822 feet; 80° 51' 30" N, 81° 36' 20" W) was clim...
Geologic History of the Yosemite Valley, by François E. Matthes. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1930. U. S. Geol. Survey Professional Paper 160. $1.10.This long-awaited monograph on the Yosemite Valley sets forth the evolution of the vall...
Broad Peak, Women’s Expedition. Anna Czerwinska* and Krystyna Palmowska* were the entire Polish women’s expedition to Broad Peak. These two set up Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 5000, 5800 and 6350 meters on May 24, 26 and June 1 with no porter ...
Colorado: (4) Rocky Mountain National Park, McHenry Peak (13,300 ft.) On 9 July 1950 a Y.M.C.A. camp counselor, George Cowles, 23, was struck by a falling rock and as a result experienced a 200-foot fall on jagged rocks near the summit of this pea...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 1, 1988, the four man Italian “Valmalenco Expedition” departed the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna to traverse over Kahiltna Pass in an attempt of the Wicker- sham Wall. On June 4 they proceede...
Masherbrum, Northwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Michael Larcher, Andreas Orgler, Hans Bärnthaler, Christoph Rimml, Thomas Burtscher and me as leader. After leaving Skardu on June 17 with 63 porters, we got to Base Camp on June 25 at 4300 m...
Lake District, Bariloche, Cerro Catedral. The granite spires around Refugio Frey in Cerro Catedral provide great rock climbing, with routes ranging from one to ten pitches in a beautiful alpine environment. Routes tend to be mixed, requiring an av...
Khan Tengri: A Russian expedition of last summer, under the leadership of a Mr. Pogrebezki succeeded in accomplishing the ascent of this peak, the highest summit of the Tien Shan, and confirmed the accuracy of Merzbacher’s determination of its alt...
Central Chile. On December 8, 1954, Jorge Chaparro and Raúl Vouriot made the first ascent of 13,616-foot El Paso.
Cloudveil Dome, “Nimbus,” Tetons. Steve Koch and I did a new five-pitch route on the northeast face of Cloudveil Dome, which we named “Nimbus.” The climb is a dark, wet chimney that really has no appeal except as an ice route. We have watched it c...
FALL ON ROCK, NO “SPOTTING” PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupA large group from the ACC General Mountaineering Camp below the Vowell Glacier were bouldering at Tamarack Glen above the north margin of the glacier on July 2...
Nanda Devi. An eleven-man Indian expedition, organized by the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and under the leadership of Major Narendra D. Jayal, failed to climb Nanda Devi in July, 1957. They followed the route of the British-American Himalay...
Manaslu Attempts via the Northeast Face in the Post-Monsoon. Two Austri- ans, a Swiss and a German led by Austrian Horst Frankhauser reached 7300 meters on October 10 with bad weather and threatening avalanches. Spaniards Carles Gel, Victor Marín,...
Polish Climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. The Polish Earth Sciences Society Expedition carried out glaciological studies on the Broggi Glacier. They made the following ascents: Yanapaccha Oeste, Pisco, Huandoy Norte (via east couloir), Huasacarán ...
A.A.C., New York Section. The year 1983 was one of the most active and successful in the history of the New York Section. During the year members and guests attended a series of 10 lecture-programs on a wide range of topics. Featured speakers incl...
Nepal Peak, ascent via the southeast and south ridges. A 12-member expedition from the DAV Summit Club (German Alpine Club) led by Herbert Streibel went to the very rarely visited region of North Sikkim to attempt Nepal peak (7,153m). The team tra...
Panch Chuli II. An Indian army expedition from the Gorkha Rifles made the second ascent of the peak, 18 years after the first ascent. I led the 20-man team. We approached from the Darma valley in the east. Base Camp was at 3720 meters at Nyulpa an...
Great Trango Tower; southwest buttress, Azeem Ridge. Josh Wharton’s and my route starts on the lower right of the broad southwest buttress at just under 4,000m, and climbs to the SW Summit (ca 6,237-6,250m, depending on the map) of Great Trango To...
Kanjiroba. A Japanese expedition from Yamagata University made a successful ascent of Kanjiroba (22,583 feet) by a new route, the south face to the east ridge. The summit was reached on April 26 by Morishige Makano, Akisha Shiraishi and the sirdar...
Everest Post-Monsoon Ascents and Tragedy and Lhotse. Aside from the Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition described below, two other groups climbed Everest. A French military expedition of nine led by Alain Estève climbed the South Col route. On October 6...