Jirishanca, Southwest Face. A French expedition climbed, though not to the summit, the southwest face of Jirishanca, repeating the route first climbed by Dean Caldwell and Jon Bowlin in 1971. They were plagued by earthquakes which rendered the slo...
The Enclosure, Northwest Ridge, Variation. A series of corners, formed of predominately white rock, is located several hundred feet left of the Kimbrough-Olson Variation on the north face of the Great Tower. Georgie Stanley and I found good climbi...
AVALANCHESWashington, Mt. RainerOn May 31, Todd Davis (24) of Sitka, Alaska, was killed high on Mt. Rainier when a slab avalanche swept him and two other climbers about 2000 feet down the mountain. Davis, Jones and Beckter were climbing to the sum...
The Incinerator, Ruta de Fruta. In October 1982 Simon King and I climbed this route following the obvious crack in the center of the face. We began at the top of a detached slab with aid moves around a roof to a flared slot that went free. A knobb...
Rupshu-Shara Shuwa, Second Ascent. It was reported that Annelies Ascharbl and Leo Graf from an Austrian expedition summited Shara Shuwa (6236 m) on July 27 via the east face. This was the second ascent of the mountain. The third was made the next ...
P 7205 and P 8205, Wrangell Mountains. Bob Jacobs, Dave Henning, Jack Simmonds and I flew to the Glacier Creek landing area along the Chitistone River on July 1. We established Base Camp at 4400 feet along the Twaharpies Glacier. On July 3, we cli...
El Capitan, Dihedral Wall free ascent. In May, adding to his phenomenal list of El Capitan free routes, Tommy Caldwell freed the incredibly sustained Dihedral Wall (26 pitches, VI 5.14a), perhaps the most difficult free route on El Capitan. See Ca...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Howser TowersAt 5:30 p.m. on August 8, 1982, a party of three approached the West Ridge route on South Howser Tower. They were at an elevation of about 9400 feet on the snow-...
AMS, HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, Mark Hall (42), a client of Mountain Trip, was brought to the Ranger Camp at 14,200 feet complaining of a severe headache and persistent cough. He was treated for Acute Mountain Sickness (AM...
Mount Rainier, Success Glacier Middle Finger. The Success Glacier sits in a cirque between Success and Kautz Cleavers. On the headwall are three snow fingers. The right finger was climbed in 1960 (Success Glacier Couloir). No information was avail...
Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge. Pavel Kovar and I discovered and completed the first ascent of one of the few remaining unclimbed technical ridges on a major Sierra Nevada mountain, the northeast ridge of Mt. Clarence King in Sequoia and Kings...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Lorette, South RidgeOn February 17, A.S. (18) set out to make a solo climb of Mount Lorette’s South Ridge (5.6). His family became concerned when he did not return home lat...
Kalanka and P 6187. We were four weeks in the Nanda Devi Sanctuary with Base Camp at the foot of the moraine of the Uttari Rishi Gal. The weather was changeable. From September 15 to 19, G. Martellotti, N. Kekus and I repeated the Japanese route o...
In late August Colorado climber and hand surgeon Ken Duncan and I made the first ascent of the southeast prow of Cloud Peak in the Cloud Peak Wilderness. After a rough 12-mile hike from the east, we camped between Sapphire and Diamond lakes. At da...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Outstandingly good weather during the summer of 1958 brought feverish activity to the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Mount Fury’s west peak, the last unclimbed peak in the Picket range (see article in this Journal), w...
Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route. On August 9 Graham Rowbotham (Canada) and I made the first ascent of the limestone tower immediately south of Waldorf Tower in the Remillard Group of the Selkirk Mountains. We cl...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. During the good-weather period in early January, Toni Ponholzer and a man named Franz (Austria) climbed to within four pitches of the northwest shoulder via a line Ponholzer had attempted previously on the east, northwest and...
Schweizerland, Pk. 3,200m, first ascent. An 11-member Indian expedition, led by former naval officer and Everest summiter Satyabrata Dam, arrived in Kulusuk on July 1. They were helicoptered, with two local ski guides, Leifur and Fritjon, reputedl...
PRE-EXISTING INJURYWashington, Mount BakerOn May 21, 1984, John Powell (34) was ice climbing as a member of the North Cascade Alpine School on the Coleman Glacier when he aggravated a previous back injury at the 1600 meter level. He was temporaril...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK (17), RAPPEL ERRORS (5), INADEQUATE BELAYS (5), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (5), PROTECTION PULLED (2), DISLODGED ROCKS (2)New York, ShawangunksThere were 24 accidents reported from the Shawangunks this year, of which 18 happened w...