Antarctic Traverse by an International Group 1989-1990. From Seal Nunatak, Graham Land on the Antarctic Peninsula which extends south towards the tip of South America to the Soviet Mirny Base on Davis Sea is some 6400 kilometers. From July 28, 198...
Sentinel Range, overview. The 2003-04 season saw a record number of people reach the summit of Vinson Massif (4,897m). A total of 75 people attempted the mountain and 74 were successful. This surpasses the previously most successful season, 2000-0...
Paine Towers and Fitz Roy Regions in the Southern Summer, 1991-2. The weather from October 1991 to March 1992 was as usual changeable and harsh. Despite these “normal” conditions, at least eleven new routes were completed. Since periods of more th...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE North Carolina, Hanging Rock State ParkWhile climbing the second pitch of Zoo View (no previous experience with the route) 5.7+, I could not figure out crux sequences. Inste...
McArthur Peak, East Summit. Australian Tony Hunter, New Zealander Andy Scrace and Canadians Graham Rowbotham and I had first planned to climb McArthur as an acclimatization climb for the east ridge of Mount Logan, but drifting clouds kept us from ...
PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONColorado, Boulder CanyonOn May 29, Bill Trull (age unknown) was climbing in a recently developed climbing area across from the Bihedral Rock. The climb was located on the south side of Boulder Creek. Trull did not fall but be...
Georg Jennerwein, der Wildschütz, by Georg Stöger-Ostin. 8vo., pp. 195. Munich: Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde, 1939.
Illinois, Mississippi Palisades, near Savanna—On October 16, 1955, ten members of the Chicago Mountaineering Club were joined by five uninvited American Youth Hostlers. The Chicago Mountaineering Club party was climbing in two groups. One group ha...
OVERDUE, WEATHER POOR NAVIGATION, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia Ice FieldOn July 22, D. E.(52) started up the Athabasca Glacier on his way to Mt. Columbia, and reached its summit (3748 meters) in a whiteout at 1600. Starting out...
Cho Oyu, Autumn Attempts. An international group of Italians, French and Spaniards led by Oscar Piazza failed at 7800 meters on the normal route on October 1. Italians led by Fabio Lenti could not get higher than 7300 meters on September 17. Spani...
Meru, Attempt. It was reported that Nick Bullock, Julian Cartwright, Jamie Fisher and Owain Jones (all U.K.) attempted the east face of the Central Summit (ca. 6500m) of Meru in September, 1997. They were plagued by bad weather, but managed to mak...
FALLS ON SNOW AND ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—CRAMPONS WRONG SIZE AND RROKEN, MODERATE EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn Saturday, August 12, John Craver (40) of Santa Cruz, CA, was descending with companions from the summit of Mount Rainier to ...
Jirishanca Chico Tragedy. In August, after American Robert Anderson, Scot Dr. John Hosie and Peter Cornwall had made an unsuccessful attempt on the east face of Yerupajá Chico, the three climbed Jirishanca Chico unroped, stopping just short of the...
Mt. Moran, New Route. In July, John Kelley and Jim Beyer added a new route to the south face of Mt. Moran (12,605'). The Kelley-Beyer route (VI 5.12a AO) was established in six days over two attempts. The two protagonists are responsible for rough...
SLIP ON SNOWWashington, Snoqualine PassOn June 4, Elizabeth Howard (64) was plunge stepping down the east side of Red Mountain when she lost her balance and fell head first down 200 feet of snow into a rock field where she slid another 75 feet. Sh...
Castle Rocks, The Gargoyle Route. When you approach Castle Rocks via Buckeye Campground, the sweeping 900-foot west face of a tower located high amidst the Castle Rock massif is visible. Unlike the “Fin” and its counterpart “Castle Rock Spire,” th...
Nun-Kun Massif White Needle. Cesar Fernandez Perez, Alfonso Vaquero Marin and Gustavo Vazquez Fariña climbed White Needle (6500 m), situated beneath the Nun-Kun Massif, as part of a commercial expedition organized by Terres de Aventure. They summi...
Bona, Winter Ascent. Alaskans Dave Pahlke, Rich Burton, Paul Denke- walter and I made the first winter ascent of Mount Bona (5005 meters, 16,421 feet) on March 3. We followed the northwest ridge, the route of the first-ascent party. The climb bega...
Hetch Hetchy Dome, Resurrection and In Memoriam. Hetch Hctchy is the next canyon northwest of Yosemite Valley. From Tuolumne Meadows, the Tuolumne River flows west into what used to be the “other valley.” A bit smaller than Yosemite, but every bit...
ROCK AND SNOW AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Crescent GlacierAt about 5 p.m., on August 19, 1982, a large rockfall from the summit area of Bugaboo Spire came down the east face and caused a snow avalanche on Crescent...