Thunder Mountain, ski descent of west face. This 2,000' face is prominent on the flight to Kahiltna Base. On April 25 Andrew McLean and I gained the upper glacier by traversing in from the west above a steep narrow icefall. After skinning across t...
On April 20, a climber fell to his death while being lowered, due to the webbing on one of the anchor’s parting and not being properly clipped in to the equalizing anchor. In the case of the webbing, it was only masking tape that connected (and hi...
Gasherbrum V. A 12-man Japanese expedition, led by Ryuichi Babaguchi, made the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (24,020 feet), but also met with tragedy. Three members of the party reached the summit on August 1. The next day Babaguchi set out alone a...
Sequoia National Park. On the Memorial Day weekend, Herb Laeger and I added another classic route, Aspire, on the magnificent 1200-foot west face of the Fin, facing Castle Rock Spire. We started 150 feet up and right of a prominent pine growing at...
The Tusk, Juneau Icefields. Because of a time limit, our mini-expedition to the northwestern portion of the Icefields was hurried by helicopter to the upper Taku Glacier. Our objective was unclimbed Tusk (c. 6700 feet), which actually towers atop ...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Mount PowellOn September 5, 1983, Donald Thomas (30) fell 60 meters to his death in a gully while trying to rescue his dog, according to Tim Cochran, a member of the Vail Mountain Rescue Group.Cochran said search parties bega...
Barnaj 11 South and Central Peaks. Japanese from Tokyo University led by Yoisho Kubora established Base Camp at 13,125 feet and Advanced Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the glacier of the Barnaj Nala. Above Camp I the route ascended an icefall and als...
Wall Street. One air mile west of Moab is a rapidly developing new crag area known as Wall Street. It is located approximately five miles from the intersection of U.S. 191 along State 279 (the Potash Road). Easy access and magnificent scenery alon...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Storm. Point. On 21 July, Randy Charter (25) and David Dornan (29) were climbing on Storm Point. Carter was leading what looked like a moderately difficult pitch on the south face. He started to layback up a ver...
Gasherbrum V, East Peak, 1978. Details, lacking in A.A.J., 1979, have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 69. The Japanese party led by Ryuichi Babagushi made the first ascent of the east peak (23,300 feet) of 24,020-foot Gasherbrum V. Base Camp and Camps ...
Gasherbrum II. It took 13 days to get from Dassu to our temporary Base Camp at 16,000 feet on the Abruzzi Glacier, including two rest days, one caused by heavy snowfall at Concordia. We arrived on May 14. We had started with 60 porters but arrived...
Schweizer Masken und Mas\enbräuche, by Karl Meuli. 163 pages, with 60 full-page illustrations and a frontispiece in color. Zurich: Atlantis-Verlag, 1943. Price, $4.50.Shakespeare’s Henry IV says that death is a mask. Among primitive peoples the be...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTENew York, ShawangunksOn May 26,1985,I led the first pitch of the Arch (5.4) but had not carried enough slings so there was a large amount of rope drag. Bil Tulipare (38), coming u...
Wildflowers of Mount Rainier and the Cascades. Text by Mary Fries; Photos by Bob, Ira and Patricia Spring. Seattle: The Mountaineers. 206 Pages; about 100 color plates. $7.95I am prejudiced – it was pictures of alpine flowers that first made me wa...
Summits of the Seven Continents Climbed by Women. The first to succeed in climbing to the summits of all seven continents was 54-year-old Texan Richard Bass when he reached the top of Everest in 1985. He completed the “smaller” series, which inclu...
Peaks above Darrah-i-Shahran. An Italian expedition also climbed above the Darrah-i-Shahran. On August 6 E. Barbero, A. Bonomi and L. Ratto made the second ascent of Djuk Deh Ambi (18,436 feet), continued along the ridge to make the second ascent ...
Cerro Mascarello. In December Eduardo Kornais, Gregorio Ancin, Osvaldo Troiani, Mario Serrano and I left for the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. We had hoped to go to Cerro Moyano, north of Lago Argentino, but transportation difficulties, ...
Everest. In July 1950 a Bombay newspaper reported the arrival of a Swiss party intending to attack Mt. Everest, but no further account of this group has been received.Reports of the terrible Assam earthquake and flood tell of 20,000 to 30,000 squa...
Annapurna Attempt. Bulgarians led by Metodi Savov tried to climb Annapurna by the south face but were unable to get above 6800 meters, which they reached on December 14.Elizabeth Hawley
Awi Zom, Buni Zom Group, Hindu Raj. The Cologne Hindu Kush Expedition climbed in the Buni Zom group. We divided into two parties after starting up the Phargam Gol. Those who went north turned to the untrodden Phargam Glacier from Base Camp at 10,6...