That Untravelled World, An Autobiography, by Eric Shipton. London:Hodder and Stoughton, 1969. 286 pages, 16 plates of photographs, lineillustrations by Biro, 6 maps and end papers. Price: 45 S.“The springs of enchantment lie within ourselves: they...
The Exploration of the Source of the Thompson River in British ColumbiaRaymond T. ZillmerTHE Thompson River in British Columbia rises in the southeastern part of the Cariboo Range. The western side of the Cariboo Range is rather well known, as the...
Trapecio, Los Viejos Roqueros Nunca Mueren, and tragedy. On August 2, 2006, Jose Manuel Fernández and Miguel Ángel Pita climbed the southeast face of Trapecio (5,653m) via the couloir systems to the right of the July 2005 route by Slovenians Pavle...
SUP/FALL ON SNOW AND ROCKWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeClimber Scott Richards (42) called Mount Rainier National Park on a cell phone requesting a rescue for his climbing partner Peter Cooley (39) at 6:10 a.m. on May 15. The two-person t...
FRANZ MOHLING1930-1982Franz Mohling died in an avalanche on Mount Logan last summer. With him perished two friends, Stephen Jensen and Turan Barut.His daughter Shanti said at his memorial below the Boulder Flatirons, “Franz gave to me a sense of t...
Bushes, bird excrement, snake paranoia, exfoliating faces, incipient seams—all to get to one perfect crack climb. Throughout May, Peter Doucette, Kate Rutherford, and I explored Namibia. Chris Alstrin and Gabe Rogel joined us to document the trip....
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn September 11, 1987, Brad Jensen (26) and John Rehmer (34) left the Salt Lake City area to drive to Grand Teton for a climbing trip. They spent the night of the 11th camped in the Snake River Canyon. On S...
Andes, Peru. The Austro – Swiss expedition under the leadership of Fritz Kasparek, who climbed the North Face of the Eiger in 1938 for the first time, came to a tragic end on Salcantay’s southeast face about a thousand feet lower than the summit w...
Chinchey, North Ridge. It was the third time I had gone up the valley, the Ruri Chinchey, which drains to the east from the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. We again had two objectives: unclimbed Puntan- cuerno (5959 meters or 19,551 feet) and a ne...
During previous trips to the Peninsula I had noticed a number of steep and distinct mountains east of Cierva Cove, 80km north of the areas visited by most climbing teams. In 1999 Australians climbed several peaks overlooking Brialmont Cove, but th...
American Medical Research Expedition to EverestJohn B. West, M.D., Ph.D., and John EvansThe CHIEF OBJECTIVE of this unusual expedition was to study the function of man at extreme altitudes, and we were fortunate enough to have considerable success...
FATIGUE, FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park – Moores Wall, Dolphin HeadOn May 25, Chris Hagwood (42) and Mark Ericson (52), experienced climbers, started Dolphin Head (5.6), a popular rock climb located on Moo...
Safety in the MountainsReport of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club 1949THE mountain accidents of the climbing year 1948 surpassed in number those of 1947. In 1947 there were 15 persons killed or injured; in 1948 this number rose to ...
Everest, Northeast-Ridge Attempt. Base Camp at 17,000 feet was reached on August 7 after a seven-hour drive from Xigar along the Friendship Highway and a subsequent dirt track which winds its way past the Rongbuk Monastery. Two weeks were needed b...
Rwenzori Range, traverse, various ascents, and new peaks. From January 31 to February 12, Cam Burns, Charlie French, 12 porters, one ranger, and I traversed the central portion of the Rwenzori range, from Roccati Pass south to Kilembe. The travers...
The Howson Range. In the angle formed by the Bulkley and Skeena rivers, in central British Columbia, there are a number of small compact ranges which rise to approximately the 9000-foot level. Since the deep valleys lie at about 2000 feet above th...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464— 1237—819—419...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE SUPERVISION AND INSTRUCTION, POOR JUDGMENT, IMPROPER PROCEDURE, ALCOHOL CONSUMPTIONMichigan, Oak Park, Grand LedgeOn May 5, 1991, about 1550, Kathy Wizinsky (27) fell 30 to 35 feet to the ground while ...
ORIGINALLY THE ALEX MACINTYRE Memorial Expedition was to have had three members. The tragic death of Alex on Annapurna’s south face in the autumn of 1982 left only Jerzy Kukuczka and me for the 1983 expedition. We two set out with 20 porters. We p...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. Perhaps it’s the proximity of the AAC offices or just that Coloradoans are being drawn to the great outdoors more than ever, but the Central Rockies Section continues to see phenomenal growth. Only four years after th...