Steeple Spire, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. In June Mike Graber, Alan Long, Al Bartlett, and I returned to the Kichatnas to attempt the east face of Kichatna Spire. Our efforts were frustrated by horrendous weather with storms pinning us ...
On the third day, August 1, of a nine-day solo trip I climbed a new route on the west face of Fremont Peak. The route followed the obvious and attractive crack system in the center of the face, and involved nine pitches. A small amount of aid was ...
Huntington, East Ridge, Rooster Comb, P 11,300, Dickey, Moose’s Tooth. Our team of ten from the Portland, Oregon area began skiing in on March 29 from Mile 279 on the Alaska Railroad. Our approach route was the Hidden River and Buckskin Glacier. W...
STRANDED, FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—California, Mt. Irvine. Thomas Cowie (23) and Geoff Nutting (23) were attempting a 5.7 route on the northeast face of Mt. Irvine on August 14. They were forced to retreat because the climbing was too difficult ...
Cordillera Carabaya, 1965. In the A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 181 the description of the peaks climbed by the University of Keele Expedition was incomplete. The full story appears in Cambridge Mountaineering, 1966 pages 7 to 11. A map is included.
Cho Oyu from the North in the Pre-Monsoon Season. All ascents of Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) were made by the first ascent route, first climbed by the Austrian Tichy in 1954. They were 7 Taiwanese led by Liang Ming-Pen, Summit reached on Ma...
A number of new climbs have been made in the Tetons during recent years, commonly very difficult rock climbs. These will be listed from south to north.Granite Canyon, Givler’s Arête. This route, the first prominent buttress on the south side of Gr...
The Saber. From Sky Pond in Loch Vale one views the slender ridge of the Petit Grepon and to the right and east of it rises a great red corner, 1000 feet high. Dean Moore and I made its first ascent on July 13 in five hours. After climbing unroped...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The Club’s summer activities in 1951 were centered in the leaders’ climbing school, held in the Hermit Range of the southern Selkirks. In addition, an H.M.C. expedition made three first ascents in the Windy Range of th...
Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the Quebrada Parón. We were thirteen: Kazimierz Malczyk, leader, Michal Chwistek, Michal Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawlowski, Adam Pietras, Maciej Stobierski, Jerzy Wewióra, Stanislaw Wylezal...
Polish Wakhan Expedition, 1963. Under the leadership of Andrzej Wilczkowski, a group of Poles climbed in the Wakhan. On September 22, M. Gryczynski, B. Mac, A. Tikarski and Warteresiewicz made the third ascent of Kishmi Khan (c. 23,600 feet) and t...
Alpamayo, Southeast Face, 1979. In the first week of July, 1979 Dave Jenkins and I climbed up the glacier at the foot of the southeast face of Alpamayo. We found 500 feet of fixed rope near the base of the face left a month before by Yugoslavs, wh...
Bugaboos, Various Ascents. On July 6, Todd Offenbacher, Jay Sell, Bob Schultz and Nils Davis arrived at the CMH Lodge. The four of us met Paul Bingham, a British friend of Todd’s living in Vancouver, who joined us for the first four days. The grou...
Alpamayo and Tayapampa. In the first part of our expedition we attempted unsuccessfully to climb Alpamayo using the classic approach route from the Quebrada Alpamayo. The condition of the north glacier was so bad because of the lack of snow, big c...
Mount Vulcan, Kluane Ranges, St. Elias Mountains. M. E. Alford and I made what we presume to be the first ascent of Mount Vulcan (c. 9300 feet; longitude 138°29', latitude 60° 51'), highest peak of the Kluane Ranges, comprised of the abrupt scarp ...
Chearoco west face, south and north summits. Rodolfo Grispo and I climbed the west face of Chearoco (6157 meters, 20,200 feet) in June. The face consisted of 55° frozen firn of excellent quality above a large icefall. We bivouacked at the base of ...
West Temple, Full Steam Ahead. Between Gettin’ More Western and Back Where It All Begins, this route climbs 13 new 60-meter pitches to join Back Where It All Begins for a final three pitches to the summit. It was soloed on January 10, 1999, by Amm...
Cerro Capurata, Northern Andes. A light party of the Club Andino de Chile, Sección Santiago, made the first ascent of this snow volcano (19,653 feet) on the Chilean-Bolivian border. Police Captain Pedro Rosendo and Ignacio Morlans reached the top ...
Chichiccapac and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Carabaya. We arrived at Base Camp on July 4. It had taken us five days to explore the country and to find a site for Base Camp and three days to move everything into the area. A few days were spent in...
Various Climbs in the Northern Cascades. This north buttress of Amphitheater Mountain lies just east of the middle finger buttress on the broad north face. On July 20, 1983, Mike Carville and I climbed it, following a line on the right side. Obvio...