Mount Everest Group, Attempted Traverse. A program similar to Reinhard Patscheider’s (see Tibet) was Anatoli Boukreev’s more elaborate idea for a traverse from Lhotse’s summit (8516m) over to the top of Everest, and then, “if I feel like it,” a tr...
Everest 1933, by Hugh Ruttledge. Illustrated with 59 photographs, charts, diagrams and maps. London : Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd., 1934. Price 25s.This account of the fourth Everest expedition is written in greater part by the leader, Ruttledge, wi...
Miscellaneous Items from Other Reports:In one rescue on Mt. Rainier, an improvised sled made of an Ensolite pad and sleeping bag was successfully used to lower a victim 500 feet.Several rescues made use of visual ground to air signals.One rescue s...
Chris Thomas and I climbed the sub-peak immediately south of Mt. Huntington's South Ridge route on May 9. Beginning from the Mt. Huntington base camp (ca 8,000') at 11:00 p.m. on May 8, we climbed to the “upper park” snowfield (ca 10,000') on ...
West Face of Snowpatchjames p. McCarthyHIGH above was Snowpatch, a great, black shape looming over us in the evening sky. Once more Hans Kraus, John Rupley, and I had been drawn back to the Bugaboos. Supper over, we sat quietly among the rocks whi...
FALLING ROCK—FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW INSTINCTSCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lost BrotherOn September 29,1 set out with Christian Dragheim and Chris Kerr, fellow members of the Cragmont Climbing Club, to explore the Lost Brother, a seldom-vis...
Mt. Demaria, Ascent, and Other Activity. In early February, a British party visited the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the yacht Shantooti. On February 23, Luke Milner and Roger Haworth made an ascent of Mt. Demaria (635m) with Vladislav Timofeyev and...
New Mexico Rocky Mountains. In late October 1947, two girl secretaries from Los Alamos, Frances Krauss and Mildred Hartig, lost their lives on an icy slope of Truchas Peak (13,275 ft.), New Mexico’s highest mountain. One was 34 years old, the othe...
British Joint Services Expedition to North Peary Land. The Joint Services Expedition selected an area north of latitude 83° N. It comprised the peninsula separated from the remainder of Peary Land by Hyde Fjord. This peninsula, about 3,000 square ...
SLIP ON SNOW/ICE, INADEQUATE FOOTWEAR, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 3, 1985, the four member party called “The 43rd TFS” flew into the Kahiltna Glacier for an attempt on the West Rib of Mt. McKinley. By May 8, they were camped near th...
Mt. Everest. The past year witnessed the attempt by a lone climber to reach the summit of this mountain which had a year ago repulsed the well equipped party of English climbers. Capt. Maurice Wilson of the Royal Air Force succeeded in eluding the...
POOR EXPEDITION BEHAVIOR-PARTY SEPARATED (ABANDONED INJURED AND ILL TEAMMATES), INADEQUATE MAINTENANCE OF TENTS DURING STORM, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 13, Ranger Meg Perdue rece...
Mountain Rescues by Helen Orlob. New York: Thomas Nelson & Sons, 1963. 176 pages, 46 illustrations. Price $3.50.This is a book for early ’teen-agers; the first of what will probably be an ever-growing number of volumes of semi-factual accounts...
Pamiagdluk Island, South Greenland, first ascents. The Greenland Bigwall Expedition spent six weeks between the end of July and September in South Greenland. Our aim was to push the complex limits in one bigwall route without bolts. Accordingly we...
“Ambush Peak”, Northeast Face, Wolverine Peak, East Face, “Prairie Falcon Peak”, Northeast Face, Wind River Range. From a camp at Pyramid Lake, Larry Young and I climbed this impressive 2000-foot face of “Ambush Peak” (12,173 feet) from July 12 to...
In early spring fellow New York Section-AAC member Mike Barker and I explored this low subarctic range that comprises the easternmost and highest part of the Mealy Mountains, protected as part of the Mealy Mountains National Park Reserve. They ...
This is the forty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eleventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: One of the less common causes of mishaps in t...
FALL ON ROCK, MIS-COMMUNICATIONNew York, ShawangunksOn May 11, 1985, a man (25) was following No Exit (5.10) when he fell five meters to the ground. His belayers were not aware that he was climbing. (Source: Tom Scheuer, Senior Ranger, Mohonk Pres...
Peter Graham, Mountain Guide: an Autobiography. Edited by H. B. Hewitt. London: Allen Unwin, 1965. xiv + 245 pages, with illustrations. Price 42s.Peter Graham’s service as Head Guide at the Hermitage, Mount Cook, coincided with the first flowering...
Nalumasortoq, first free ascent of the left pillar. Timmy O’Neill and I wandered off to the remote fjords of Greenland for big-wall freeclimbing. Arriving in the fishing village of Nanortalik, we checked into the hostel of Neils, our charter guide...