Central Chile. On December 8, 1954, Jorge Chaparro and Raúl Vouriot made the first ascent of 13,616-foot El Paso.
Cloudveil Dome, “Nimbus,” Tetons. Steve Koch and I did a new five-pitch route on the northeast face of Cloudveil Dome, which we named “Nimbus.” The climb is a dark, wet chimney that really has no appeal except as an ice route. We have watched it c...
FALL ON ROCK, NO “SPOTTING” PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupA large group from the ACC General Mountaineering Camp below the Vowell Glacier were bouldering at Tamarack Glen above the north margin of the glacier on July 2...
Nanda Devi. An eleven-man Indian expedition, organized by the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and under the leadership of Major Narendra D. Jayal, failed to climb Nanda Devi in July, 1957. They followed the route of the British-American Himalay...
Manaslu Attempts via the Northeast Face in the Post-Monsoon. Two Austri- ans, a Swiss and a German led by Austrian Horst Frankhauser reached 7300 meters on October 10 with bad weather and threatening avalanches. Spaniards Carles Gel, Victor Marín,...
Polish Climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. The Polish Earth Sciences Society Expedition carried out glaciological studies on the Broggi Glacier. They made the following ascents: Yanapaccha Oeste, Pisco, Huandoy Norte (via east couloir), Huasacarán ...
A.A.C., New York Section. The year 1983 was one of the most active and successful in the history of the New York Section. During the year members and guests attended a series of 10 lecture-programs on a wide range of topics. Featured speakers incl...
Nepal Peak, ascent via the southeast and south ridges. A 12-member expedition from the DAV Summit Club (German Alpine Club) led by Herbert Streibel went to the very rarely visited region of North Sikkim to attempt Nepal peak (7,153m). The team tra...
Panch Chuli II. An Indian army expedition from the Gorkha Rifles made the second ascent of the peak, 18 years after the first ascent. I led the 20-man team. We approached from the Darma valley in the east. Base Camp was at 3720 meters at Nyulpa an...
Great Trango Tower; southwest buttress, Azeem Ridge. Josh Wharton’s and my route starts on the lower right of the broad southwest buttress at just under 4,000m, and climbs to the SW Summit (ca 6,237-6,250m, depending on the map) of Great Trango To...
Kanjiroba. A Japanese expedition from Yamagata University made a successful ascent of Kanjiroba (22,583 feet) by a new route, the south face to the east ridge. The summit was reached on April 26 by Morishige Makano, Akisha Shiraishi and the sirdar...
Everest Post-Monsoon Ascents and Tragedy and Lhotse. Aside from the Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition described below, two other groups climbed Everest. A French military expedition of nine led by Alain Estève climbed the South Col route. On October 6...
FALL ON SNOW – UNUSUAL SLIPWashington, Mount ShuksanOn May 23, one of two clients sustained an ankle injury when the guide (29) lost his footing on the descent of Mount Shuksan. He slid down a snow slope, and pulled the clients from their stance. ...
Latok I, north ridge, attempt; Tony Tower, Releasing Bad Energy. Damian and Willie Benegas were again on the Choktoi for an attempt on the north ridge of Latok I. They arrived in base camp on July 22 and found conditions on the face to be the best...
Pingora, Southeast Face Direct, Wind River Range. In August Angus Thuermer and I roped up at the base of a very prominent left-facing dihedral on the southeast face. We followed this corner for two pitches to a large ledge on the right. From its r...
FALL ON ROCK, CAUGHT FOOT ON EDGE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Idaho, City of RocksOn August 29, 1992, Tim Mooney (24) decided to “Pink Point” a route which his partner, Paul Hodges (24), had already led. At the last bolt clip in, which he failed to make,...
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section is continuing to try to “get its feet” on the ground after having an open chair position for several years. The Section Web site, with its climbers’ message board and announcements of upcoming ...
Aerjinshan, Kansu. Thirteen members of a joint Japanese-Chinese expedition led by Kenji Hirasawa made the first ascent of Aerjinshan (5798 meters, 19,023 feet) on August 19 including climbing leader Yoshio Maruyama. The next day, another two got t...
Maharbani Sar. In Lo Scarpone of December 1, 1975 an account appears telling of a first ascent made by two Italians, Roberto Ive and Elio Padovan; it is not clear to the editor just where they climbed. They traveled by jeep to Munsgol and trekked ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Only one meeting was held by the Sierra Nevada section during 1959. On March 20 an enjoyable evening was spent at the Nilsson home, where Richard Houston presented a lively account of an expedition to the Bella Coola...