Cho Oyu. A 14-member Hungarian expedition led by Dr. Sándor Nagy successfully climbed Cho Oyu by the normal route. The summit was reached on October 4 by Ákos Koncz, József Straub and Austrian Reinhard Wlasich, on October 7 by József Csíkos, Lászl...
Memphis Mountaineers. Based in the Memphis, Tennessee area, the Memphis Mountaineers promote mountaineering sports among Mid-Southerners. They provide various types of mountaineering activities, the opportunity to meet climbing partners, and climb...
On the Admiration of Mountains, by Conrad Gesner. 4to. ; 55 pages, with 8 illustrations. Edition limited to 350 copies. San Francisco: Grabhorn Press, 1937. Price $5.00.In a finely printed volume are presented the first complete English versions o...
“Barasa” or “Changi Peak,”first ascent. Tomasz Polok and I established base camp on September 8 at 4,100m on the south side of the Nangma Valley, at the foot of Roungkangchan III. The north face of this peak is a prominent 500-600m rock wall, whi...
Siachen Peace Park, dead or alive? The 23rd anniversary of the Siachen conflict was marked by another disappointment. The last round of talks between the Defence Secretaries of India and Pakistan ended in April 2007 without an agreement. This was ...
ArcticProfessor Chamberlin has sent to the Club the ice-axe used in the summer of 1895 by R. D. Saulsbury, former Professor of Geology at the University of Chicago, as a member of the Peary Relief Expedition. The previous winter and spring Peary h...
Schweizerland, Various Ascents. In August and September, 1995, I was a member of the Dresdner Grönlandexpedition to the Angmassalik area (Scheizerland) in East Greenland. We went by self-made boat from Angmassalik-Angmassalikfjord to Tuno Bucht. F...
Arthur King Peters 1919 - 2001Art Peters, an AAC member since 1964, died peacefully at his home in Bronxville, N.Y. on June 2, 2001 at the age of 81.A 1940 graduate of Cornell, Arthur served during World War II as an officer in Army counter-intell...
Kang Yazé, Free Tibet. It was reported that in the summer of 1997, Pedro Rodriguez and Javier Perandones put up the 1000-meter snow and ice route Free Tibet on Kang Yazé (6404m). The initial 200 meters of the route were 45-50°; the final 800 meter...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Mount RakerOn July 18, Robert Porter (48) was descending the Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker when he lost control of his glissade and tumbled into a crevasse, landing on a kind of saddle that kept him f...
Jirishanca, Southwest Face. A French expedition climbed, though not to the summit, the southwest face of Jirishanca, repeating the route first climbed by Dean Caldwell and Jon Bowlin in 1971. They were plagued by earthquakes which rendered the slo...
The Enclosure, Northwest Ridge, Variation. A series of corners, formed of predominately white rock, is located several hundred feet left of the Kimbrough-Olson Variation on the north face of the Great Tower. Georgie Stanley and I found good climbi...
AVALANCHESWashington, Mt. RainerOn May 31, Todd Davis (24) of Sitka, Alaska, was killed high on Mt. Rainier when a slab avalanche swept him and two other climbers about 2000 feet down the mountain. Davis, Jones and Beckter were climbing to the sum...
The Incinerator, Ruta de Fruta. In October 1982 Simon King and I climbed this route following the obvious crack in the center of the face. We began at the top of a detached slab with aid moves around a roof to a flared slot that went free. A knobb...
Rupshu-Shara Shuwa, Second Ascent. It was reported that Annelies Ascharbl and Leo Graf from an Austrian expedition summited Shara Shuwa (6236 m) on July 27 via the east face. This was the second ascent of the mountain. The third was made the next ...
P 7205 and P 8205, Wrangell Mountains. Bob Jacobs, Dave Henning, Jack Simmonds and I flew to the Glacier Creek landing area along the Chitistone River on July 1. We established Base Camp at 4400 feet along the Twaharpies Glacier. On July 3, we cli...
El Capitan, Dihedral Wall free ascent. In May, adding to his phenomenal list of El Capitan free routes, Tommy Caldwell freed the incredibly sustained Dihedral Wall (26 pitches, VI 5.14a), perhaps the most difficult free route on El Capitan. See Ca...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Howser TowersAt 5:30 p.m. on August 8, 1982, a party of three approached the West Ridge route on South Howser Tower. They were at an elevation of about 9400 feet on the snow-...
AMS, HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, Mark Hall (42), a client of Mountain Trip, was brought to the Ranger Camp at 14,200 feet complaining of a severe headache and persistent cough. He was treated for Acute Mountain Sickness (AM...
Mount Rainier, Success Glacier Middle Finger. The Success Glacier sits in a cirque between Success and Kautz Cleavers. On the headwall are three snow fingers. The right finger was climbed in 1960 (Success Glacier Couloir). No information was avail...