American Medical Research Expedition to EverestJohn B. West, M.D., Ph.D., and John EvansThe CHIEF OBJECTIVE of this unusual expedition was to study the function of man at extreme altitudes, and we were fortunate enough to have considerable success...
FATIGUE, FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park – Moores Wall, Dolphin HeadOn May 25, Chris Hagwood (42) and Mark Ericson (52), experienced climbers, started Dolphin Head (5.6), a popular rock climb located on Moo...
Safety in the MountainsReport of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club 1949THE mountain accidents of the climbing year 1948 surpassed in number those of 1947. In 1947 there were 15 persons killed or injured; in 1948 this number rose to ...
Everest, Northeast-Ridge Attempt. Base Camp at 17,000 feet was reached on August 7 after a seven-hour drive from Xigar along the Friendship Highway and a subsequent dirt track which winds its way past the Rongbuk Monastery. Two weeks were needed b...
Rwenzori Range, traverse, various ascents, and new peaks. From January 31 to February 12, Cam Burns, Charlie French, 12 porters, one ranger, and I traversed the central portion of the Rwenzori range, from Roccati Pass south to Kilembe. The travers...
The Howson Range. In the angle formed by the Bulkley and Skeena rivers, in central British Columbia, there are a number of small compact ranges which rise to approximately the 9000-foot level. Since the deep valleys lie at about 2000 feet above th...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464— 1237—819—419...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE SUPERVISION AND INSTRUCTION, POOR JUDGMENT, IMPROPER PROCEDURE, ALCOHOL CONSUMPTIONMichigan, Oak Park, Grand LedgeOn May 5, 1991, about 1550, Kathy Wizinsky (27) fell 30 to 35 feet to the ground while ...
ORIGINALLY THE ALEX MACINTYRE Memorial Expedition was to have had three members. The tragic death of Alex on Annapurna’s south face in the autumn of 1982 left only Jerzy Kukuczka and me for the 1983 expedition. We two set out with 20 porters. We p...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. Perhaps it’s the proximity of the AAC offices or just that Coloradoans are being drawn to the great outdoors more than ever, but the Central Rockies Section continues to see phenomenal growth. Only four years after th...
Fast on-sight repeats of big walls. At the end of September and October 2006, a French-Polish team (Marie-Claire Hourcade, Pierre Muller, Denis Roy, and myself) was very active in Madagascar. During the first two weeks of our stay we repeated many...
Mountain of the Sun, Eye Shadow. In mid-October, Warren Hollinger and I climbed a major new wall route on the west face of the Mountain of the Sun. Eye Shadow (16 pitches with 200 foot ropes, VI 5.9 A2+ ) climbs the lower 1,000-foot buttress on th...
The East Face of Monitor PeakJack FralickINTEREST in an unclimbed mountain face is quite likely to receive its first stimulus from the brief but challenging statement of an authority writing about the peaks he knows best. Such a statement was that...
FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION, WEATHER, DETERMINATION TO SUMMIT Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 15, 1993, the Colorado Marmot Expedition started their climb of the West Buttress Route. The climb went routinely from the landing strip to the high ...
Snow Leopards on Pik PobedyRandall M. Starrett IIIN LATE JULY OF 1985,I set out with my partner, William Garner, and cameraman David Breashears on a journey to the Celestial Mountains of mythology, the Tien Shan. There, along with twelve Soviet al...
Alpamayo Chico, Condoriri, Illampu, Cordillera Real; Quimsa Cruz. Holly Samson and I visited the easily accessed area around Condoriri. Our scenic Base Camp at 14,700 feet was an ideal spot to acclimatize and climb in a compact cirque of six or so...
Manaslu, southeast face to east ridge, first ascent. A large Ukrainian expedition, marking the 10th anniversary of the country’s independence in 1991, had as its objectives a new route up the southeast face of Manaslu (8163m) and the first ascent ...
Mountaineering in AntarcticaA survey of Continental climbingby Damien Gildea, AustraliaAntarctica has been hailed as the mountaineering destination of the 21st century, and not entirely without reason. In addition to containing almost every concei...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. M.C.A. membership grew to 350 in 1984. The highlight of club activities for the year was once again the two-day ice climbing class held in September at Matanuska Glacier, with 40 students and 10 instructors. The club...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Tom Dickey, Charlie Fowler, Alex Lowe and I arrived at the Gasherbrum Base Camp on May 19, hoping to climb a new route, the northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV. We had established a route through both icefalls ...