Bolivian Climbing in 1994. We suffered losses in 1994. A Pole died on Huayna Potosí on March 31 and three Austrians were caught by bad weather on Illimani on June 18. Two of them perished. On a more positive note, Bolivian guides Gregorio and Edua...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A six-man team of Spanish Basques was led by Juan Ignacio Lorente and included Angel Rosen, Luis María Saenz de Olazagoitia, José Urbieta, Benjamín Ruiz de Infante and Miguel Gómez. They attempted the standard route from the north...
Nanga Parbat Winter Attempt, 1992-3. Our team was composed of climbers Mlle Monique Loscos and me, four trekkers and liaison officer Ashraf Aman. We hoped to climb Nanga Parbat for the first time in winter by the Schell route on the Rupal Face. We...
The Mountains of Europe. Kev Reynolds, Editor; various contributors. Oxford Illustrated Press, Haynes Publishing Group, Starkford-near-Yeovil, Somerset, England; Haynes Publications, Ltd., Newbury Park, California, 91320. 207 pages, 51 color and 1...
Night Climb: The Story of the Skiing Tenth, by Frank Harper.216 pages. New York: Longman’s Green, 1946. $2.50.Night Climb: The Story of the Skiing Tenth is listed by its publishers as a factual novel which “compresses many stirring episodes in the...
THE KICHATNAS are located approximately 45 miles southwest of the Denali massif in the Alaska Range. Although the peaks are all under 9000 feet in elevation, what they lack in altitude, they make up for in steepness and intensity. The Kichatnas ha...
Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range. Fred Beckey. Portland and Seattle: Oregon Historical Society and University of Washington Press, 2003. 568 PAGES. $40.00.Fred Beckey, world-renowned climber and historian...
On July 14, with all our climbing equipment stuck in Urumqi customs, Ales Holc, Igor Kremser, and I began acclimatizing in the Xuelian Massif. With only trekking shoes we were restricted to climbing lower snowless peaks from the south. Northwest f...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILED, LOOSE ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Whitney-GilmanOn October 29, Daniel Becker (19) and Jonathan Waldman (19) were switching leads on a very crowded Whitney-Gilman with multiple parties above and below The party...
Yume Muztagh, first ascent. At 11:05 a.m. on August 1 all four members of our expedition succeeded in making the first ascent of an unnamed 6,345m peak in the Kun Lun Mountains. Although our average age was 61, all participated in every aspect of ...
Everest Ascents and Tragedy. It was a difficult year on the north side of Everest in the spring of 1994, with a total of six climbers who reached the summit and three deaths. Five of our team members got to the top, but tragically one died. The co...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. On June 25, a regularly scheduled Mazama climbing party of several ropes successfully climbed Mt. Hood by way of the Sunshine Route. Climbing conditions were good, the weather was excellent. The descent was made by way of the Coo...
STRANDED, RAPPEL FAILURE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn April 3, 1980, at 1 p.m., Rangers Rohrbach, Dill, Cowan and Patterson were dispatched to Rixon’s Pinnacle to investigate cries for help. We met with Fred ...
Jeff Lowe on the EigerDavid Roberts*CLIMBING HARD ALL DAY, Jeff Lowe had forced an intensely complicated route through a wilderness of false leads and deadends, but darkness caught him short of the ledge he had hoped to reach. He had no choice but...
Arizona, Camelback Mt. On 22 December, Peter Sandberg (28), his wife Nancy (27), and A1 Dutton (38), drove to Camelback Mt. in Phoenix where they planned to do a 200-foot rock climb called the Icebox. Sandberg climbed the first 60 feet of the clim...
The Height of Mount LoganWalter A. WoodALTHOUGH Mount Logan is visible from the coastal fringe and from far off-shore in the Gulf of Alaska, its giant stature—indeed its very existence—was recognized only in 1890 when I. C. Russell saw the mountai...
Vampire Peaks, Various Ascents. On July 17, John Young, David Coleman, Cogie Reed, Harrison Shull, and I were dropped off in the Vampire Peaks for 27 days. The Vampire Peaks lie roughly 15 miles away from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the sout...
Haystack, Southeast Face, West Face, Deep Lake Area, Wind River Range. In late August beautiful weather allowed Donna McBain and me to add two new routes to this rock-climbing haven. On August 27 we climbed a route in the middle of the 400-foot fa...
Deep South Section. The principal Section activity was the organization by Frank Nederhand and me of the 2011 Cordillera Blanca Environmental Expedition. Frank, John All, Clinton Lewis, and Brett Overcash from this Section and 13 other dedicated e...
Scrambles on Bear Creek Spire, Sierra Nevada(First Ascent from the East)Norman ClydePERHAPS the least known of the finer peaks of the southern Sierra Nevada of California is Bear Creek Spire. Although only a moderately impressive peak when seen fr...