This is the forty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eleventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: One of the less common causes of mishaps in t...
FALL ON ROCK, MIS-COMMUNICATIONNew York, ShawangunksOn May 11, 1985, a man (25) was following No Exit (5.10) when he fell five meters to the ground. His belayers were not aware that he was climbing. (Source: Tom Scheuer, Senior Ranger, Mohonk Pres...
Peter Graham, Mountain Guide: an Autobiography. Edited by H. B. Hewitt. London: Allen Unwin, 1965. xiv + 245 pages, with illustrations. Price 42s.Peter Graham’s service as Head Guide at the Hermitage, Mount Cook, coincided with the first flowering...
Nalumasortoq, first free ascent of the left pillar. Timmy O’Neill and I wandered off to the remote fjords of Greenland for big-wall freeclimbing. Arriving in the fishing village of Nanortalik, we checked into the hostel of Neils, our charter guide...
Mount Everest Attempt. Our expedition had as members Jan van Banning, Willem ten Barge, Eelco Dijk, Geert Geuskens, Gerard Jansen, Ronald Naar, Mathieu van Rijswick, Gerard van Sprang, Johan Taks, Han Timmers, Bart Vos, Robert Weijdert and me as l...
Following our successful campaign in 2010, we returned in July 2011, with a strong group mainly of Italian guides, to blitz the Uummannaq and Upernavik regions, adding a number of routes. The group operated from Mariacristina Rapisardi’s super-yac...
BENJAMIN FRANK SEAVER 1858–1929Benjamin Frank Seaver was an early member of the American Alpine Club (1903), and for twelve years served it as Treasurer and later as Vice President. He had been a member of the Alpine Club of Canada since the year ...
Mont Blanc: Discovery and Conquest of the Giant of the Alps. Stefano Ardito. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. Profuse color photographs. $48.00.Twenty years ago, when I first visited Chamonix, I was amazed to discover that the book many alpinists ...
Wyoming: New Route on the S. Face of Grand Teton. On 3 July 1948 Fred Beckey, Ralph Widrig and Graham Matthews reached the Lower Saddle at 7.00 a.m., hoping to make a new route up the pronounced couloir between the complete Exum and the Middle S. ...
Umdung Kangri, West Ridge. Umdung Kangri (6643m) is a high peak seen in the south as one descends from Parang La pass. It is near the watershed with the Lingti Valley in Spiti and Ladakh. A Japanese Alpine Club—Tokai Section, expedition led by Tat...
That Untravelled World, An Autobiography, by Eric Shipton. London:Hodder and Stoughton, 1969. 286 pages, 16 plates of photographs, lineillustrations by Biro, 6 maps and end papers. Price: 45 S.“The springs of enchantment lie within ourselves: they...
The Exploration of the Source of the Thompson River in British ColumbiaRaymond T. ZillmerTHE Thompson River in British Columbia rises in the southeastern part of the Cariboo Range. The western side of the Cariboo Range is rather well known, as the...
Trapecio, Los Viejos Roqueros Nunca Mueren, and tragedy. On August 2, 2006, Jose Manuel Fernández and Miguel Ángel Pita climbed the southeast face of Trapecio (5,653m) via the couloir systems to the right of the July 2005 route by Slovenians Pavle...
SUP/FALL ON SNOW AND ROCKWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeClimber Scott Richards (42) called Mount Rainier National Park on a cell phone requesting a rescue for his climbing partner Peter Cooley (39) at 6:10 a.m. on May 15. The two-person t...
FRANZ MOHLING1930-1982Franz Mohling died in an avalanche on Mount Logan last summer. With him perished two friends, Stephen Jensen and Turan Barut.His daughter Shanti said at his memorial below the Boulder Flatirons, “Franz gave to me a sense of t...
Bushes, bird excrement, snake paranoia, exfoliating faces, incipient seams—all to get to one perfect crack climb. Throughout May, Peter Doucette, Kate Rutherford, and I explored Namibia. Chris Alstrin and Gabe Rogel joined us to document the trip....
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn September 11, 1987, Brad Jensen (26) and John Rehmer (34) left the Salt Lake City area to drive to Grand Teton for a climbing trip. They spent the night of the 11th camped in the Snake River Canyon. On S...
Andes, Peru. The Austro – Swiss expedition under the leadership of Fritz Kasparek, who climbed the North Face of the Eiger in 1938 for the first time, came to a tragic end on Salcantay’s southeast face about a thousand feet lower than the summit w...
Chinchey, North Ridge. It was the third time I had gone up the valley, the Ruri Chinchey, which drains to the east from the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. We again had two objectives: unclimbed Puntan- cuerno (5959 meters or 19,551 feet) and a ne...
During previous trips to the Peninsula I had noticed a number of steep and distinct mountains east of Cierva Cove, 80km north of the areas visited by most climbing teams. In 1999 Australians climbed several peaks overlooking Brialmont Cove, but th...