West Face of Mount Conness. Warren Harding and Herbert Swedlund made the first ascent of the west face of Mount Conness in the summer of 1959 in three and one-half days.

Mount Buckner, North Couloir. Steve Doty and I climbed the north couloir on November 14. This first ascent crossed a 60° bergschrund and then led up the prominent couloir which was 1400 feet of steep ice and hard snow.Van Brinkerhoff

Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition, which attempted to climb Momhil Sar (7342 meters, 24,088 feet) by the northeast ridge, was composed of Michael Wärthl, leader, Volker Kron, Uli Schneider, Heiner Dehn, Dr. Alexandra Rothkopf, and me. We left Pas...

Mount Teewinot, North Face Variation. This important face is nearly bisected by a large chimney-couloir which parallels the Emerson Chimney about 125 feet to the left (north and east). While routes on both sides of this prominent feature had been ...

Mulkila IV. On August 30, an Italian expedition led by Renzo Gemignani climbed Mulkila IV (6517 meters, 21,381 feet). The summit was reached by Fabrizio Molignoni and a Japanese sculptor Yoshiyuki Tawara, who lives and works in Carrara.

Great White Throne, North Face, Zion National Park. This new route, done by Danny Horton and me on April 23, 1977 in 14 hours, ascended 2200 feet from the road to the top of the hoodoos of the Great White Throne. The first 1000 feet were scramblin...

Temple of Sinawara, Datura, Zion Canyon, 1979. I soloed this route in September, 1979, 90% free, in 12 hours up and down with one fixed rope. It climbs up and through the chimney line to the right of the waterfall on the Temple of Sinawara. (NCCS ...

Mt. Kinesava, The Jolly Green Jam Crack. In early November, I climbed a new ten-pitch route, The Jolly Green Jam Crack (IV 5.10 Cl), on the southeast face of Mount Kinesava. The route ascends the face of a fairly distinct buttress about 200 feet t...

Palisades, Traverse of the Crest. In late July Gerry Adams and I completed the first traverse of the Palisade Crest. The Palisade, with many small glaciers and five peaks over 14,000 feet, is the most alpine region of the range. Atypical of the ra...

Peineta, Duraznos para Don Quijote, and First Canadian Ascent. In early January, 1997, Guy Edwards and I (Canada) traveled to the Paine region of Chile for two months of some southern summer. On January 17, the skies cleared for long enough to lur...

Crosscut Peak, South Face. The Darren Range in southwest New Zealand is known as the best rock climbing in the country and for the rainfall it receives. It rains on 250 or more days a year. The south face of Crosscut Peak is about 3000 feet high. ...

The Italian Expedition to Persia made a number of climbs of 13,000-ft. peaks in the Zardek-Kuh Group, among others the Shahan Kuh (13,225 ft.) and the Kuh-i-Dinar (14,800 ft.), and found a new route to the summit of Mt. Demavend.

FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITIONNew York, ShawangunksOn April 13, 1985, a man (37) was leading V-3 (5.7) and fell to the ground because his nut pulled while he was testing it. He fractured his wrist. (Source: Tom Scheuer, Senior Ranger, Mohonk Preserve)

Anyemaqen, 1981, Third Ascent. [On page 285 of A.A.J., 1982, details were lacking about two ascents of Anyemaqen. We are grateful for further details sent us by Herr Hupfauer, which arrived too late to be published last year.—Editor. ] Our Austro-...

Huandoy Sur, No Fiesta Hoy Dia. I noticed the northeast face of Huandoy Sur the first time I visited Peru, in 1990. It is clearly visible from the approach to Pisco, looking steep and difficult. Five years later I climbed a new route on it, Oro de...

Ticlla (5,897m) is highest nevado of the Cordillera de Yauyos (east of Lima), located in the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos Cocha and accessed from the town of Miraflores (3,600m), whose residents call the peak “Cotoni.” French climbers Jean F...

Doonerak and Other Peaks, Brooks Range. For three weeks in August, a Sierra Club climbing group visited the north fork of the Koyukuk region, which was initially explored by Robert Marshall in the 1930s. Despite extensive climbing in the area, Mar...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn August 11,1989, about 1400, Mark D., a very experienced climber, was leading the fifth pitch of a route called Dropout on the east end of Mount Rundle. He pulled out a lar...

Everest, First Ascent by a Married Couple and First Yugoslav Woman. Ours was a joint expedition of the Trieste (Italy) Slovene Alpine Club and the Slovene Alpine Association. We were Yugoslavs Andrej Štremfelj, his wife Marija, Dr. Žare Guzej, Jan...

Pamir Mountains. The 1984 American Pamir expedition was in the Soviet Union from July 12 to August 11. After a brief visit to Moscow, we flew, drove and trekked 2700 miles into the Pamir range. Rick Nolting and Barry Nash made a five-day ascent of...