The Khumbu ExpressTwo Himalayan solos in 12 days, on Cholatse and Tawoche, NepalUeli SteckI have recently climbed a variety of mountains and routes solo. This type of climbing fascinates mebecause of the deep and powerful experiences you can get o...
LYDIA LYMAN HALL1899-1991Two years ago, when she became so terribly ill, although she knew exactly what was going on, her optimism and courage never flagged for a moment. Her patience was thrilling. Her marvelous and oft-subtle sense of humor was ...
The American Alpine Club’s Handbook of American Mountaineering, edited by Kenneth A. Henderson. 234 pages, including bibliography, and 150 pen and ink illustrations. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1942.The American Alpine Club should be proud of its Ha...
Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, southwest ridge; Dauru (5,877m), northwest ridge; Ranglana (5,554m), south ridge. Boris Korzh, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania, Andrew McLellan, and I, all from Imperial College, London, spent the latter part of Septembe...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On March 2 Jim Martin (32), a member of the Mountaineers and an experienced mountaineer was involved in an overnight bivouac on the upper slopes of the Palmer Glacier on Mt. Hood. Martin had tried in vain to organize a party to cl...
Snow Canyon. In December, 1977 Bill March and I did a new route in Snow Canyon, about 20 miles northeast of St. George. Originally Jim Knight and I had tried it in 1972. From Highway 18 near the Snow Canyon turnoff one can walk 100 yards west to t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ACCEPTED STANDARDS California, RedmondOn September 21, Travis Hull (28), North American Wilderness Academy school administrator and master wilderness instructor, fell to his death while teachi...
Bridge Mountain, North Face, Hegira, Zion Canyon, 1979. Misa Giesey and I climbed a line of off-width and fist cracks straight up the north face to a bowl below the summit brush slopes in October, 1979. A finger crack leads out of the bowl to the ...
FALL ON ICE/SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress(What follows is a synopsis of two incidents, one that happened as a result of the second party attempting to rescue the first.)At 1130 on May 24, Jason Sinnes an...
DUNCAN A. MacINNES 1885-1965Dr. Duncan A. MacInnes, a member since 1940, died Sept. 23, 1965 at the age of 80. A member Emeritus of the Rockefeller University he had continued active in scientific research until a few weeks of his death. In summar...
Hetch Hetchy Dome, South Face. It was no ordinary ledge on which we were bivouacked, — over 100 feet wide, 400 feet long, and inaccessible except by roped climbing. So far our route had seemed difficult and yet in some ways, tame. Even though we h...
Among North American alpinists, the north face of North Twin is as steeped in climbing mythology as the most famous faces in the world. Before last April, it had seen only two ascents, by two different routes, each of which is known in the colle...
Gene F. White 1934-2008Gene White created an extraordinary life. At age 12 he climbed his first Colorado peaks with local Boy Scouts; in 2007, at age 73 and already battling leukemia for four years, he absolutely relished a 10-day hut-to-hut hike ...
Canadian Rockies, Various Activity. The 1997-98 season ended up a below-average year for ice formation, but new route activity, with the major emphasis now switched to mixed rock and ice, continued at a fevered pace, making this winter one of the ...
Fitz Roy’s Simoncic RouteMatevž Lenarcic, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaFITZ ROY, a colossus of granite and ice, is remarkable from every side. From far out to the east, from the flat, dry pampa, its dominant silhouette appears, defying com...
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2. Jennifer Jordan. W. W. Norton, 2010. 302 pages. Black & white photos. Hardcover. $26.95.Dudley Wolfe, who died high on K2 during the 1939 American expedition, has been ne...
Mount Heyburn, North Face. Probably the most obvious technical climb in the Sawtooth Range, the direct north face of Mount Heyburn, had never been done prior to this season. Heyburn, as seen from the north, from the highway or Redfish Lake, is spl...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. With increasing campus interest in climbing and swelling ranks, the Harvard Mountaineering Club is enjoying something of a renaissance. Both direct and indirect Club involvement in all aspects of climbing, from top-rop...
Thin Ice: Unlocking the Secrets of Climate in the World’s Highest Mountains. Mark Bowen. New York: Holt Paperback. 2006. 320 pages. $17.50.Glaciers worldwide are dying. Our warming climate is killing them off drip by drip. While many climbers have...
Ascents in the Karavshin Valley. Eight members of The North Face Climbing Team spent three and a half weeks between July 10 and August 6 in Kirghizstan climbing in a spectacular region of the Pamir Alai range commonly referred to as the Ak-Su. Kno...