FALL ON ROCK WHILE BEING LOWERED, INADEQUATE ROPE LENGTH, NO HARD HAT, MISPERCEPTION Idaho, City of RocksThe following excerpts are from, an article written by Thomas Dewell, sent by a member—but without reference to the newspaper it appeared in.)...
Cho Oyu. Our expedition of three Belgians and two Nepalis established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 5750, 6400 and 7000 meters on July 31, August 4 and 12. We made the first summit attempt on August 13 and the second on the 18th. The third was s...
Colorado, Cussing Crack, Castle Rock, near Boulder-—On 9 August, Jeff Wheeler (14), Jerry Roach (14) and Ed Anderson (20) were climbing on Castle Rock. Wheeler was leading on a vertical wall near the top of Castle Rock, in Boulder Canyon. He was p...
Nanga Parbat Attempts on the Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank. Aside from the expeditions noted above, there were four expeditions that failed to reach the summit. Peter Long led a group of six Scots who did not get to the top. There were two unsucce...
FALL INTO RIVERBritish Columbia, Jasper National Park, North Boundary Trail HikeD.H. and S.K. (from Germany) were hiking the north boundary trail of Jasper National Park. The summer had been extremely rainy and the rivers were all in flood. On Jul...
Four-legged Climber on Aconcagua. A bizarre ascent was performed by a dog of unknown pedigree in Aconcagua. This “climber” joined a group of Europeans from Laguna Horcones. He then disappeared and later joined Austrian Armin Liedl in the Berlin Hu...
Early American Ascents. In the Führerbuch of Christian Aimer, which contains extensive records of Meta Claudia Brevoort and W. A. B. Coolidge through the period from 30 July 1868 to 1 August 1884, one finds the following additional notes:Christian...
Moab Area, Various Ascents. Kevin Chase, Tom Gilje, and Tait Rees made the first ascent of the lone tower located on the north side of Heat Wave Buttress via the route Spitting Cobra (5.12 AO). This is located off State Highway 313, nine miles nor...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mt. RainierOn August 19, 1980, Doug Perry (26) was hit on the head by a large rock at 11,500 feet while descending Disappointment Cleaver. His injury was serious and he required a helicopter evacu...
Bear’s Tooth, Wind River Range. In early September Reed Tindall and I hiked to near the head of the Downs Fork of Dinwoody Creek. After sitting out a day of heavy hail and thunder, we set out for the spectacular formation of Bear’s Tooth. Our rout...
HYPOTHERMIA, EXHAUSTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 29, 1982, at 1000, friends of Koji Sekine and Tsutomu Tagusari, two Japanese climbers, came to the Ranger Office and reported that they were overdue from...
Ptarmigan Peak, Western Chugach. In mid February, Tom Walters and I climbed the prominent north buttress of Ptarmigan Peak. The route ascends steep comers formed by massive blocks. With four 5th-class pitches on relatively sound rock, the climbing...
Gaurishankar Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Park Jong-Soo tried to climb Gaurishankar’s southwest ridge and over the south summit to the main summit. During their October climbing period, it snowed on three out of four days. The members final...
Hiunchuli, Southeast Face, Winter Ascent, 1986. Chris Watts and I departed a tea lodge at 10,800 feet on December 3, 1986 and toiled for five hours up steep grass slopes to set up camp on the moraine at 13,500 feet. True Camps I and II were placed...
San Valentin, First Winter Ascent. The correct altitude of San Valentin has not been determined with complete accuracy. It is given either as 4058 or 3876 meters (13,314 or 12,716 feet). It is surely the highest of the Patagonian Andes. The first ...
Mount Sill. On July 15 Woody Stark and I climbed Mount Sill by a new route that starts from Lake 11,672 in the Glacier Creek drainage. We started toward the glacier routes, but instead of turning left toward the glacier, we climbed the headwall se...
Mt. Kamet: An English expedition led by Mr. Frank S. Smythe successfully assaulted this Himalayan peak (25,447 feet) and effected two ascents of the world’s highest yet climbed summit. It was favored with good weather conditions and like several o...
REGIONAL SAFETY ACTIVITIESAppalachian Mountain Club—New York Chapter: Norton Smithe, chairman of the Rock Climbing Safety Committee, has forwarded a summary of their climbing code. A code of this sort would be useful to adopt generally and it is a...
Mount McKinley, Western Rim and. Cassin Route of South Face. Our group of eight divided evenly to climb these two routes. My brother Alan, Paul (Tut) Braithwaite and Paul Moores and I climbed the Cassin route while Don Whillans, Gordon (Binke) B...
Thalay Sagar Attempts. Difficult Thalay Sagar (6904 meters, 22,661 feet) was unsuccessfully attempted in 1989. Japanese Akira Kiuchi and a companion failed at 6200 meters on the west ridge in June. Also in June, Italian Placido Castaldi and two fr...