French-Italian Alps: the Dent du Géant. On 18 August 1949 a party of four Americans was climbing this peak from the Rifugio Torino in Italy. They were paired in ropes of two each. At the time of the accident, J. Graham McNear (Chicago Mountaineeri...
Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains. In early July Charlie Crocker and I made what we believe are the first ascents of five summits in the Coast Mountains to the southeast of LeConte Bay. From Petersburg, these peaks may be seen to the southeas...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. On 4 May Terry Simonich (26), Linda Simonich (26), Robert Patterson (32), Terry Riddell (26), Dave Skinner (27), and Pam Skinner (24), set out to climb the WyEast route. All of the party had previous climbing experience with the ...
In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain guiding school of Peru), made camp at Lake Paccha (4,600m), below the southwest face of Nevado Vicunita (5,550m). They ...
Nomenclature in the Huayhuash. Since the Cordillera Huayhuash was first surveyed in 1927 by the American Geographic Society expedition, confusion over peak names and heights have surfaced. In cases where confusion over peak names exist the AAJ has...
Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains. After eight leisurely days rafting down the Copper River from Chitina, we arrived at the terminus of the Miles Glacier. On June 18, after caching our river supplies, we six, Story Clark, Sarah Robey, Don White, ...
SLIP ON ICE AND SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount JoffreOn August 6, 1989, a party of three (early 20s) was climbing ice and snow on the north face of Mount Joffre. They were roped together, using ice screws ...
Possibly the earliest mountain fatality in the United States, was that of Elisha Mitchell in 1857. While exploring the mountains of North Carolina, he was killed by a fall from a precipice. It was in his honor that Mt. Mitchell (6,711 ft.) was nam...
AAC, South Central Section. The section held its annual meeting on October 27 in Houston at the Hilton Southwest Hotel. Past chairperson J. French Hill presided over the dinner and membership meeting, which were followed by a silent auction, slide...
Across the Olympic Mountains: The Press Expedition, 1889–90, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers and the University of Washington Press, 1967. 220 pages, 24 photographs, 9 maps. Price: $5.95.The central mountains of the Olympi...
Sub-6000m peaks (Karakoram and Hindu Raj), attempts and ascents of new routes. On June 5 the Korean Five Peaks Expedition set off from Seoul for the Karakoram and Hindu Kush. The seven-man expedition, led by Gi-seok Seo, set out to make ascents of...
Everest Attempt. Annie Beghin and Véronique Périllat had hoped to climb the South Col route on Everest as a two-woman expedition. Their high point of 8500 meters was reached on October 6.
Pik Lenin, North Face on Skis. Italians R. Cason, B. Dall’Oro and O. Fomo climbed Pik Lenin (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) by its north face on skis, reaching the summit on July 29. They then descended on skis. They made five camps above their 12,000-...
Pumori. The expedition of the Tohan Club was composed of Tadashi Mochizuki, Tadashi Mizuno, Tadashi Nakamura, Tatsuji Shigeno, Yoshinori Kanoh, Kazuo Yamamoto, Katsuichi Kataoka, Satoshi Kimrua, Kazufumi Nagura, Nabuo Shimosaka, Hiroo Imanishi, Et...
Lhotse South Face, More on Tomo Cesen’s 1990 Ascent. When Scott Fischer and I returned to Kathmandu after climbing Lhotse in May 1990, we were interviewed by Liz Hawley and at that time we verified that Cesen had reached the summit of Lhotse. As I...
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, IMPROPER ICE AX TECHNIQUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Gilkey TowerOn August 9 about 1300, Chris Pazder (56) fell to his death while attempting to traverse from the South Teton to Cloudveil Dome. Pazder ...
Chacraraju Este. In mid July, Masael Alvial and I made two attempts on the Bouchard-Meunier route on Chacraraju Oeste. On the first attempt, we were stopped one pitch up by weather and bad ice. The second was stopped after three pitches when we fo...
OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXPOSUREWyoming, Grand TetonOn August 14, Douglas Cairns (36) and Daniel Cousins (30) decided to attempt the North Ridge after having failed to find their way to the Black Ice Couloir, their original objective. They...
Discounted peak royalties continue. During 2007 the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism maintained a 50 percent reduction on royalty fees for peak permits, and in November the government announced that these discounts and other concessions would continue...
Mount Moffit, Northwest Ridge, and Mount Hayes, East Ridge. Attempts on Mount Moffit (13,020’) were becoming annual events for Randy Waitman and I. When we flew onto the Trident Glacier he was making his third attempt on the northwest ridge and I ...