Llullaillaco. This peak (22,058 feet) in the Puna de Atacama was climbed for the sixth time in modern days on December 13 by Miguel Gómez, Captain Hector Miranda and Luis Allende from their third high camp. The group was made up of four civilians ...

Pioneer Peak, North Face. While on Adamant Gary Colliver had noticed an ice face on Pioneer Peak which he assured me was 65°. I have never seen any ice face this steep, though sections of one may be, so I was skeptical of his mathematics. But what...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn August 19, 1981, T. W. was hiking to the Cascade Amphitheatre, a hanging valley which is passed on a scrambling route to the summit of Cascade Mountain. En ro...

La Hoja, Bohemian Rhapsody, and Expeditions to the Pingo Valley, Clarification. Between January 5 and February 6, 1996, Sven Bruchfeld (24) and Christian Oberli (24), both Chileans, made the first ascent of the east face of La Hoja in Pingo Valley...

Blue Ridge Section. In 2010 the Blue Ridge Section continued to meet at the Rhodeside Tavern in Rosslyn, Virginia. In April four members—Daniel Ressler, Hunt Prothro, Rob Borokantics, and Simon Carr—presented an overview of Sierra climbing, rangin...

Makalu Attempt, Makalu II Ascent. Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak, has had 14 ascents since the first by the French in 1955. Our expedition was fortunate not to have any other expedition on the mountain and we were able to choose our route ...

Yanawaka, Attempt and Possible First Ascent. On July 1-2, Pedro Arias, Juan Padilla and I attempted Yanawaka (La Peña Negra de Parón, ca. 4900m) via a line up the center of the peak’s vertical north face. (The locals of Paron that I asked in 1985 ...

First winter ascent of Cerro El Plata by a new route on the South Face. In July, four of us, Augusto H. Mengelle, Carlos G. Vittone, Jure Skvarca and I made the first winter ascent of the south face of Cerro El Plata (20,702 feet) by a new route. ...

Mount Everest, Winter Attempt. Our expedition was led by Michel Metzger and composed of Marc Batard, Alain de Blanchaud, René Ghilini, Yves Laulan, Michel Mabilon, Michel Piola, Jean Bourgeois, Pierre-Alain Steiner, Emmanuel Schmutz and me. We got...

Cathedral Mountains, various first ascents. From June 28 to July 18 British climbers Lindsay Griffin, Geoff Hornby, Dave Wallis, and I visited the Cathedral Mountains, a small offshoot of peaks to the west of Mt. Russell. Heart Mountain is the mai...

Climbs in the Pamirs, 1967. Soviet climbers celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Russian Revolution by holding a mass climbing camp in the Pamirs. In all, 301 climbers from U.S.S.R., Austria, Yugoslavia, East Germany, Italy, Czechoslovakia, Hung...

Tenzing, After Everest: An Autobiography by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, as told to Malcolm Barnes. London: George Allen and Unwin, 1977.Tenzing’s second autobiography is a worthy successor to Tiger of the Snows, his first autobiography, written with Ja...

Swiss Expedition. A Swiss party under the leadership of Lorenz Saladin and composed of, in addition to the leader, Hans Graf, Walter Frei and Otto Furrer made a successful trip to the Caucasus this past summer, effecting the first ascents of Skatt...

Salcantay, Southwest Face to the East Peak. The southwest face of Sal- cantay is some 5000 feet high and had before this year not been climbed, despite several previous attempts. Our team climbed a line on the right side of the face. It was of mix...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, TetonsOn May 31, 1983, Robert Eastham (28), a moderately experienced mountaineer, signed out to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran on June 1, returning on June 2. Because of the danger of spring ava...

The Mountaineer’s Week-End Book, by Showell Styles. 408 pages, with decorations by Thomas Beck. The Week-End Series. London: Seeley Service, 1950. Price, 12/6.This grabbag for a rucksack is of course intended for British mountaineers, but it makes...

Mount Minto, Northern Victoria Land. Mount Minto (4163 meters, 13,658 feet) is the highest point in Northern Victoria Land. It had been unsuccessfully attempted several times. Our climbing party was made up of Lincoln Hall, Jonathan Chester, Lyle ...

FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksOn April 13, 1985, a man (43) fell ten meters while leading Ken’s Crack (5.7). He had swaged his own wire on nut and it pulled when he fell. He sustained cuts and bruises. (Source: Tom Scheuer, S...

Anyemaqen, First Ascent by Japanese, 1981. Details previously lacking of the first ascent of Anyemaqen have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 88. An expedition of eleven men and two women was led by Yuzo Tada. From Base Camp at 14,750 feet east of the mo...

Chacraraju Oeste, south face. In the first week of August Steve Moffat (New Zealand) and I climbed what was most likely a new route (600m, WI5 5.9 mixed) just to the right of the 1982 Yugoslav route on the south face. This side of the mountain has...