Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming, Teewinot

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Wyoming, TeewinotOn August 8, Adam Gymrek (22) and Dirk Murphy were descending a couloir on Teewinot’s East Face. At 0830, Gymrek slipped while attempting to descend a slab of rock. He fell several feet and twiste...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Overview

Overview. In 2007 Pakistani authorities received 91 applications to climb various peaks, of which 83 were approved, including 14 applicants who were granted permission to climb two peaks each, one three peaks, and another four peaks. Two expeditio...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Various Ascents

Kichatna Spires, Various Ascents. Kevin Thaw (U.K.) and Calder Stratford established two new routes in the Kichatna Spires. The pair first established Dreams of Sea on the south buttress of Peak 8400. The route is comprised of seven 60-meter pitch...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Idaho, Rocky Canyon

FALLING ROCK Idaho, Rocky CanyonOn Sunday, April 25, I was involved in a rock climbing accident in Rocky Canyon and was able to experience technical rescue from the patients perspective.David Anjelkovich, Sara Pedde and I decided to climb a bolted...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu Attempt

Cho Oyu Attempt. Four Japanese led by Ryoichi Fukada attempted to climb Cho Oyu by the normal route, but they had to turn back at 7800 meters on August 31.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Pikes Peak

Colorado, Pikes Peak—On 12 August, Mrs. Inestine B. Roberts (88), had made her 14th climb of Pikes Peak. She started the descent but night fell and she bivouaced which had been her custom on previous climbs. She was seen on the 13th and reported a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Group, North Howser Spire, West Face, First Free Ascent

North Howser Tower, West Face, First Free Ascent. On the evening of August 14, Kennan Harvey and I hiked to the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col on the way to the remote west face of the North Howser Tower. The next morning we descended to the base of the fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Face. A Swiss group from Bern led by Martin Fischer managed to climb the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face. Three men reached 7700 meters and one of them, Christoph Häuter gained the summit on July 8. A Basqu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Fall Into Crevasse, Poor Position, Weather, Inadequate Preparation, British Columbia, Mount Robson

AVALANCHE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, INADEQUATE PREPARATIONBritish Columbia, Mount RobsonA party of three (Party One) and a party of two (Party Two) were climbing Mount Robson via the Kain route on July 9. They set up camp in whi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Aconcagua, Ascent and Attempt

Aconcagua, Ascent and Attempt. Todd Hoffman, Tom Douglas, and I summited Aconcagua via the normal route at 2 p.m. on January 31, having spent a total of eight days on the mountain. After acclimatizing on the normal route, Todd Hoffman, Gabe Schlum...


Accident Reports AAJ
Northern Cascades: (3) Mt. Index, Washington

Northern Cascades: (3) Mt. Index, Washington. During the first week of October 1947, there occurred a tragic accident which has not yet been fully explained. Two young men named Franklin and Westphal, each 17 years of age and with a minimum of cli...


Notes AAJ
Word from Munich

Word from Munich. Mr. W. R. Rickmers, writing from Munich, states that about half of the Alpine Museum has survived, but the Alpenvereinsbücherei of 40,000 volumes, as well as all maps, prints and manuscripts (among them the Führerbücher), was tot...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area, Ron's Tower, First Ascent

Ron’s Tower, First Ascent. This tower was climbed by Steve Anderson, Bill Duncan, and Matt Simpson at II 5.8 A2-. The first ascent follows obvious cracks up the south face. All aid is clean. Ron s Tower is reached by a float trip down the Colorado...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ruth Gorge, Various Ascents United States, Alaska, Alaska Range

Thanks to a Mugs Stump Award grant, Scott DeCapio and I were dropped by Talkeetna Air Taxi on May 10 at our new home below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. Despite much base camp laziness, we made numerous attempts (as defined by at least carrying ou...

| Published 2000 | Author Kelly Cordes


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Ranier

Mt. Rainier. The year 1945 marks the seventy-fifth anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Rainier, which was made on August 17th, 1870, by General Hazard Stevens. General Stevens was the guest of honor of the club and described the ascent at the f...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Through Ice Bridge, Washington, Mt. Olympus

FALL THROUGH ICE BRIDGEWashington, Mt. OlympusOn August 15, 1980, Peter McKay (29) broke through an ice bridge while descending from Mt. Olympus. He punctured his left leg in the area of the knee. By the next day he was unable to walk until late i...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — Block Pulled Off — New Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Hail Peak

FALLING ROCK – BLOCK PULLED OFFNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Hail PeakAfter breakfast and coffee, Sinjin Eberle and I set out to have a nice day for a multi pitch 5.8 climb of Hail Peak on May 9, Mother’s Day. The weather was warm and st...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir West I, Attempt

Tirich Mir West I, Attempt. We wanted to open a new line on the south face of Tirich Mir West I (7487 m), but unstable snow and ice made us decide to follow the 1967 Czech route. On July 21 we established Base Camp (4700 m). Cl was ready on July 2...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona-Utah, Sentinel Tower, Totem Pole, East Face, Monument Valley

Sentinel Tower, Totem Pole, East Face, Monument Valley. A De Chelly sandstone formation located just inside the Navajo Tribal Park on the southwest comer of Sentinel Mesa, Sentinel Tower, was climbed by Stan Mish and Dan Longmade (III, 5.9). A pre...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Bad Weather, Hypothermia — California, Yosemite Valley

STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIACalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 29, 1982, about 0915, visiting rock climber Doug Furrier reported to Valley District Rangers that he had just heard cries for help coming from The Nose on El Capitan. Rangers Mik...