Gongga Shan Attempt. Canadians led by Roger Griffiths attempted the first-ascent route on Gongga Shan in the spring. They were plagued by bad weather, avalanches and an accident and did not reach the ridge. Details are lacking.
Artesonraju, northeast face. In June 2000 Spaniards Nemisio Matalobos and Angel Terrain established a ca 800-meter route rated alpine D (55 degrees) on the northeast face, which is accessed from the upper Santa Cruz Valley. The route lies between ...
Austrian Alps: Gross Glockner. An accident on this, Austria’s highest peak, was reported on 17 September 1949. It involved Michael Edison Sloane, of Llewellyn Park, New Jersey. It seems that this young student wandered away from a conducted tour a...
Climbs in the Franklin Mountains. During the first week of August, Bill Dougherty and I made a traverse and four ascents in the Chamberlin Spur. Our initial ascent was of Mount Chamberlin itself, which in a recent survey has regained its status as...
Oregon, Mt. Hood. On 11 September Raymond U. Stout (27) and Barry Carnley (27) had ascended Mt. Hood via the Cooper Spur route and were descending the South face route. Weather was windy and foggy. The two were roped but not belaying. They slipped...
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua. From June 27 to 29, Spanish (Basque) climbers Mikel Bonilla and Aitor Abendaño climbed the north face of Puscanturpa via a variation to the 2000 French route, Macanacota (AAJ 2001, p. 284). They began up a diagonal crack ...
Shicra, west face and southeast ridge. On July 5 Evelio Echevarria, Consuelo Amorós (my wife), and I left the mining town Pachapaqui, and reached the foot of the snowy peak local muleteers call Shicra (5,195-5,198m, per altimeter). This is the pea...
P 7542, Talkeetna Mountains. On June 29 Dick Nystrom and I headed north out of Palmer and parked our car where we crossed Granite Creek. After two days and 12 miles we made our Base Camp. On July 1 our prearranged airdrop arrived. After four days ...
Oxygen Transport to Human Tissues. Edited by Jack A. Loeppky and Marvin L. Riedesel. Elzevier Medical, New York, 1982. 374 pages. Illustrations. $45. Oxygen Transport to Human Tissues is another collection of papers given at a symposium. This one ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Ice CavesOn July 6, 1989, around 1600, three climbers were scrambling on easy rock at the entrance to ice caves near Bragg Creek. One of the climbers was on an exit crack to the ice caves when a rock formation...
The 20th Annual Meeting and Dinner of the New York Section of the Alpine Club of Canada was held at the Hotel Brevoort, March 29th, 1930, Mr. F. N. Waterman presiding. One hundred members and guests attended. An entertaining talk on last summer’s ...
AAC, Northern Rockies Section. After receiving word in late 1996 of the Board’s decision to create this new section, we were not really sure what to do. The new section includes all of Montana, Idaho, Utah and Northeastern Nevada—quite a bit of wi...
Cloud Walkers, by Paddy Sherman. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1965. l6l pages, 17 photographs. Price $5.95.Paddy Sherman, a Canadian, skillfully intermixes men, mountains and enough historical background of famous climbs to make very interesting ...
Passu Sar, attempt. Believing it to be still unclimbed and therefore one of the highest unclimbed summits in the Karakoram, a five-man Australian team led by myself booked Passu Sar (7478m). This peak is situated between Shispare and the Batura Gr...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition had eleven Korean members and three Japanese. I was general leader and Korean Roh Jong-Baek was leader. We established Base Camp at 5200 meters on August 25. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 6200, 680...
Pik Kommunizma. I led a 10-member Polish team to the International Soviet Pamir Camp in 1984. All, including the three women, managed to climb Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet). Starting on July 27, Ewa Panejko-Pankiewicz and Amalia Kaplon...
Mount Everest, Japanese Post-Monsoon Expedition. For the first time ever Mount Everest was climbed in the post-monsoon period when the Japanese Hiachi Ishiguro and Yazuo Kato reached the summit on October 26. They were members of a 48-man expediti...
Ama Dablam Winter Ascents. Five expeditions climbed Ama Dablam by its normal southwest ridge in the last month of 1992. Five Swiss were under the leadership of Franco Dellatorre, who reached the summit alone on December 1. Five Belgians and a Swis...
RAPPEL ERROR - FALL TO GROUND, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAround 1330 on August 7, Merry Carney (47) was unable to maintain her rappel, zipping down the rope approximately 50 feet to the ground. She had...
Ranrapalca, North Spur, Cordillera Blanca. On August 29 and 30, Britons Joe Simpson and Rick Potter climbed a new route on Ranrapalca (6162 meters, 20,216 feet), the north spur. This lies to the left of the ascent made in 1975 by Johns, Slaymaker ...