Tawoche, Northeast Buttress. Mick Fowler and Pat Littlejohn climbed the northeast buttress in four and a half days in April. They followed the line previously tried by a French team in 1990 and climbed up left to a right-slanting ramp line to gain...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. A group of the Associación Universitaria de Andinismo has just completed on January 15, 1963 a round-trip crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. They left Punta Arenas at the end of November and were taken to their...
Adamant Mountain, North Ridge, Selkirks. From the Granite glacier the north ridge of Adamant appeared to be one of the most appealing climbs in the Adamant range, and as far as we could tell, it remained unclimbed. On August 27 Gary Colliver, Bob ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Deltaform MountainAt 6:30 a.m. on August 18, 1981, four men began an ascent of Deltaform Mountain via the north glacier route. By noon they had gained the rock rib above the most difficult ice. They left the i...
With both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia reports, we rely heavily on climbers to contact us as soon as they return in order to include their accounts in appropriate volumes of the Journal. This means we sometimes miss first-hand accounts. When po...
New York Section. In 2010 the New York Section of the American Alpine Club continued its upward trajectory as new records were set in terms of membership count and number and variety of events, both indoors and outdoors. Starting with the latter, ...
Yalungkang Tragedy. A nine-man Mexican expedition was led by José Manuel Casanova. They were on the south-face route of the Austro-German expedition of 1975. They established four high camps. Hugo Saldana and Alfonso Medina never returned from the...
Chopicalqui, West Face, Piece of Happiness. In July, I climbed a new route on the west face of Chopicalqui with Bostjan Perse. The name of the route is Piece of Happiness (D 80°, 500m). We started to climb at about 5400 meters and finished at 5900...
Illimani and Huayna Potosí. Although Illimani (21,201 feet) and Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet) have both been climbed by numerous parties, they were climbed in August for the first time by a woman, when the German Anneliese Stobl ascended them with L...
Everest West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Lluis Belvis, leader, Emili Civis, Manuel Mateu, Jordi Pons, Jaume Altadill, Oscar Cadiach, Narcis Serrat, Alfons Valls, Jordi Sugranyes, Xáxier Pérez Gil, Lluis Hortala, Josep Vidal Ponce...
Moose’s Tooth, Direct East Pillar (a.k.a. The Beast). On the 5,000-foot east face of the Moose’s Tooth, site of the historic The Dance of the Woo Li Masters (Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump, 1981), Bridwell and Spencer Pfingsten established the Direct...
Mongolian Altai. Interesting information has come to us from Ichiro Yoshizawa about a Japanese expedition which climbed in early August in the Mongolian Altai Range. Unfortunately the Editor does not have adequate maps to check spellings of peaks ...
Mount Redoubt, Northeast Face. Those who carefully appraise the big wall challenges of the North Cascades will likely agree that the most serious ice problems exist on Fury, Shuksan, Maude, and Redoubt. Of these, only Redoubt had not seen the cram...
Himàlaya e Karakorùm, by Mario Fantin. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano, 1978. 248 pages, 97 photographs, various maps.Mario Fantin, the well-known Italian authority on the mountains of the world, has given us an excellent and handsome book and a high...
Grandes Jorasses. The past summer witnessed a veritable epidemic of attempts to climb the north face of this mountain, at one point three different parties being on the peak at the same time. One of these attempts ended fatally when retreat was fo...
Sarapo Southwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Peruvian Alberto Callupe, Swiss Louis Deuber, Austrian Richard Franzl, German Hans Zebrowski and me. After trekking in the region, we established our Base Camp below Sarapo Qocha. Our objective wa...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 3, 1983, John Gorton (23) was climbing the rock face just below the balanced rock. He stated that he was using a Friend which he thought was in tight. He had been hangi...
A Progress in Mountaineering, by J. H. B. Bell. xii+424 pages, with a foreword by F. S. Smythe, 34 photographic illustrations, drawings by Joan Tebbutt, and maps and diagrams by Mrs. Bell. Edinburgh and London: Oliver and Boyd, 1950.Readers of the...
Torres de Paine, South Tower, Nearly Complete Ascent of West Face, 1987. We were Antonio Prestini, Lornza Bergamaschi, Enzo Parazzoli, Luciano Maiocchi, Elio Guastalli, Caterina Delle Mese and I as leader. We got to the “Italian Base Camp” on Dece...
HEART ATTACKNew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn October 26, 1985, James Baldwin (55) died of an apparent heart attack while at the belay point on the third pitch of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. He showed no signs of discomfort prior to his deat...