Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Cube Point, Southwest Apex

Cube Point, Southwest Apex. Barry Corbet and Chuck Satterfield on September 4, 1966, climbed this new II, F8, A2 route on the familiar Cube Point. From the main Symmetry Couloir the base of the climb was reached via the subsidiary couloir leading ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity

The Desert, various activity. Eric Bjørnstad reports that three previously unclimbed towers saw ascents in the fall:Tchaikovsky Overture (425', IV 5.11 A3, Dave Mealey and Joe Slansky) is located southeast of Moab, on the Wingate Sandstone between...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Sakht

Kohe Sakht. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kohe Sakht (18,964 feet; Wala Zebak Peak 57) by the northwest spur. We were Mesdames J. Gaillard and A. Sandoval and Messieurs J. Lacouture, C. Macouin, D. Métayer, J.M. Poirier, Y. Racault, Dr. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat North, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat North, Diamir Face. Our expedition was organized by the Section for High-mountain Research of the Slovak Geographical Society and the Sports Club lames in Bratislava. The scientific research team studied the adaptation to high altit...

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| Published 1978 | Author Marián Šajnoha


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Lone Mountain

Lone Mountain. On December 12, Jerry Kanzler, Ray Martin, Clare Pogreba, Peter Lev and I climbed the north face of Lone Mountain, a graceful peak near Bozeman, which stands aloof like an Oregon volcano. The main weakness in the 1100-foot face of s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988

Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988. During the summers of 1985 through 1988, I and others have made several easy to moderate routes in the central Brooks Range. All routes were done in free time from work on a biological research project. The routes ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Failure to Follow Route, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, Aemmer Couloir

STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, Aemmer CouloirOn July 31, a group of four climbers set off to climb the Aemmer Couloir variation of the East Ridge of Mount Temple in Banff National...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri Central Attempt

Nilgiri Central Attempt. A post-monsoon Japanese expedition was led by Tsutomu Nishimura. They reached only about 19,000 feet before giving up the attempt in late October.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Logan Mountains, Terrace Tower, The White Tower First Free Ascent, and Light in August

Terrace Tower, The White Tower first free ascent, and Light in August. Yan Mongrain and I arrived in the Cirque of the Unclimbables on July 28. On August 10 we brought our gear to Terrace Tower, a squat, flat-topped spire near Bustle Tower, to jus...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face

Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face. A Base Camp north of Tenpeak Mountain, a granitic subrange southeast of Glacier Peak and the Honeycomb Glacier, is over 20 miles from the road when using the Suiattle River approach. Except for a few hours of brus...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. This year saw considerable activity in the club, both in rock climbing and mountaineering generally. Although official outings were limited in the spring, members individually spent much time at Devils Lake and other...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Climbs by Indian Expeditions

Climbs by Indian Expeditions. A 12-member team of the Mountain Lovers Association left Asansol, West Bengal for the virgin peak Srikanta (20,120 feet) in the Gangotri region. They trekked from Jhala via Harsil and established Base Camp at 14,500 f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Masa Gang, 1985

Masa Gang, 1985. More information has been received on the first ascent of Masa Gang or Masang Kang than was reported on page 211 of A.A.J., 1986. The Kyoto University Alpine Club was led by Ryohei Hori. The main group of the expedition left Thimp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ishinca, Urus Este

Ishinca, Urus Este. My wife Lena and I with the porter Marcelino Vargas spent two weeks based at 13,800 feet in the Quebrada Ishinca. On June 7 we climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) via the southwest ridge, finding a 100-foot difficult snow wall just b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge, Ascent

Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge, Ascent. Jae Soo Kim (expedition leader), Young Tae Kim (climbing leader), and expedition members Oun Bea Kim, Seong-Sang Kim, Min-Gi Jo, Yong Gun Kim, Il-Oong Jung, Dong-Ho Seo, Seong-Cheol Kim, Chi-Won Yun, Yeon-Ry...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. The Club had a full program of meetings, lectures and trips during 1950. Rock climbers were very active: many of the chapters did more along this line than in the past. White-water canoeing was promoted with considerable...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Dir Gol Zom

Dir Gol Zom. An Italian expedition, led by Riccardo Varvelli and composed of Enrico Barbero, Guido Bertero, Filippo Corsini and Per Franco Giraudi, climbed above the south branch of the upper Tirich Glacier. On August 6 Barbero, Giraudi and Varvel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt, Tragedy and Winter Ascent of Lhotse

Everest Attempt, Tragedy and Winter Ascent of Lhotse. Our joint Belgian-Polish expedition arrived in Nepal in October. We invited Polish climbers Andrzej Zawada, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy to accompany us as advisers. It took a couple of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall from Tree, Bears, Wyoming, Tetons

FALL FROM TREE, BEARSWyoming, TetonsAt 0730 on August 14, 1985, Susan K. Walker (32) telephoned the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to register for a solo one-day climb of the East Ridge of Buck Mountain.According to a friend, Walker departed the Whiteg...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Altitude Physiology

High Altitude Physiology. Edited by John B. West. Hutchinson Ross, Pennsylvania, 1982. 462 pages. $55.High Altitude Physiology. Coleridge wrote “the lessons of the past illuminate the future” and the more one studies, the more one comes to respect...