East Face of Washington Column, Yosemite. The completely overhanging, 1500-foot east face of Washington Column was first attempted by Warren Harding, Richard Calderwood and George Whitmore in June of 1958. They climbed some 600 feet in two days be...

Colchuck Peak. In January, 1975 Skip Edmonds, Clark Gerhardt, Paula Kregel and I made the first ascent as well as the first winter ascent of a couloir to the right of the northeast buttress. A 60° headwall was the major difficulty.Greg Markov

SLIP ON STICK, WEATHER, DARKNESS, FATIGUE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn June 18, 1994, O.M.(45) and C.C.(39) started off in sunshine to climb Mount Ishbel (2908 meters), near Banff, by the South Ridge. After a few hours of routine scram...

Diran Attempt. Pole Aleksander Lwow, Americans Randy Rhodes, Ken Nolan, Steve Truitt, Clay McGann and I as leader attempted the standard west-ridge route on Diran. Extreme avalanche danger on the north face which led to the ridge prevented our cli...

Glacier Point Apron. Although many excellent routes have been done on the exfoliation slabs on the Apron, only two routes had been made to the Apron’s top. After two unsuccessful attempts in the spring, on September 6, 1965 Dave Birchiff and I suc...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The past year saw still another increase in the club’s membership. We are becoming hard pressed to provide adequate leadership to accommodate the large influx of beginners. In the absence of a club-sponsored mountain o...

Swagarohini I. Swargarohini I (6252 meters, 20,512 feet) had been attempted unsuccessfully by fifteen expeditions. An Indian expedition claimed that they reached a point five meters lower than the summit but had to stop because a cornice made it t...

Sajama and Illimani, Measurements and Ascents. During 1994, in conjunction with the Military Geographic Institute (IGM) of Bolivia, I conducted differential GPS surveys of the mountains Sajama and Illimani. The purpose was to measure the heights o...

STRANDED, OFF ROUTEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 24, 1993, at 2330, I received a phone call from NPS dispatch. The dispatcher told me that ranger Jim Woodmencey was at the Lower Saddle of the Grand Teton and reported repea...

International Travel Health Guide. Stuart R. Rose. Travel Medicine Inc., Northampton, Mass., 1989. 228 pages. $12.95.Though this does not pretend to emulate the hoary “Hints to Travellers”, which ran to a dozen editions beginning in 1854, it's an ...

Elephant’s Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range. Chris Puchner and I attempted a new route on the northwest face of Elephant’s Perch in 1975 but ran out of thin-crack aid gear. In 1977 Mike Paine, Jennifer Jones and I completed the eleven-lead ro...

Mount Logan, via King Col. The Alpine Club of Gakushuin University sent an expedition under the leadership of Iwao Kawasaki with the following members: Minosuke Takano, Jiro Kawamura, Taizo Komori, Hideo Nishikigori, Masahiro Ishikawa, Hiroyuki Sa...

STRANDED, ROPE ENTANGLED ON RAPPEL Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap NRA, Mount TammanyOn May 22, 1994, about 1230, Angelo Schembari (23) and Kristen Rawl (20) parked at the State Lot off I-80 and hiked to the “Head Wall” of Mount Tammany where the...

El Chancero, Northwest Face, Sierra Juárez On April 30 Steve Eddy, Mark Meng and I climbed E1 Chancero’s dome-like northwest face. The name, meaning “The Jester,” reflects the agony and frustration of reconnaissance by more than one party. In dire...

Climbs in Zion National Park. Bill Forrest and I did two new climbs in Kolob Canyon. In June we climbed the Great Rib of Kolob (NCCS VI, F9, A2). We followed the prominent northwest rib of Timber Top Mesa, climbing three distinct pillars; we climb...

Kolob Canyon, Nugget Mesa, Sheehe Buttress. In October, Kathy Dicker and I made the first ascent of Kolob Canyon’s Nugget Mesa (the buttress left of the waterfall). Our climb, Sheehe Buttress (V 5.10 A3), takes the obvious, most central line up th...

Bonanza Peak, Winter Ascent. On December 28 my brother Gordon, Mark Bebie, and I completed a winter climb of Bonanza Peak. We followed the Mary Green Glacier route to the summit on the third of five days out from Holden Village. Fortunately, somew...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE California, Mt. WhitneyRollie Averitt (58) and Mark Smith were climbing Mt. Whitney by the Mountaineer’s Route on July 19. As they neared the top of the chute, Averitt left the tedious scree and boulders in th...

Mount Kennedy, North Ridge. A four-man group, David Seidman, Philip Koch, Todd Thompson and Joseph Faint, were landed by plane at 8000 feet in late June on the north fork of the Lowell Glacier at the foot of the north ridge of Mount Kennedy (13,90...

FALL ON ICE, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn June 25, Lois Johnson (52) and her husband Tom had camped at Lake Helen and were climbing the standard Avalanche Glacier route when she lost her balance while putting on dark glas...