Indian Regulations Update. The UIAA was categorically assured by Mohamad Ashraf, Vice-President of the Indian Mountaineering Federation, at the Flagstaff, Arizona Council Meeting held the third week of May, 1996, that there is no policy to exclude...
Northern Pickets. A party of eight Mountaineers climbed in this area during mid-summer, hiking in by way of Hannegan Pass, Easy Ridge, and Perfect Pass to a base camp on Challenger Arm, the ridge running northeast from Mount Challenger. The first ...
Hausinschriften im Schweizerland, by Gilgian Maurer. 272 pages, with 350 illustrations, two in full color. Spiez: G. Maurer, 1951. Price, $4.20.In 1899 Walter Larden, a member of the Alpine Club, began to collect house inscriptions, chiefly of the...
Mount Torment, North Ridge. Jim Pritchard and I made this fairly easy but very enjoyable alpine climb in mid-July, 1969. Camp was made in Boston Basin. To get to the north ridge we crossed over the south ridge and the west ridge of Torment. We the...
Ellesmere-Bowman Island. Bowman Island, with its striking 1870- foot rock tower, lies in the middle of Makinson Inlet, a large fiord in the east coast of Ellesmere Island, roughly 800 miles from the North Pole. My previous expedition in August 197...
Mt. Fairweather From the Sea. Last April our team of five left Port Townsend, Washington on an odyssey to sail to and climb Mt. Fairweather (15,320') without any assistance. We all worked for the Pacific Crest Outward Bound School (which helped us...
Central Chile. The 1964 climbing season witnessed the conquest of most of the peaks over 13,000 feet that remained unclimbed, particularly in the Rancagua and Colchagua districts. The main expeditions in Central Chile were the following: by Club M...
Kenneth Atwood Henderson 1907-2001Mt. Rainier, Pinnacle Peak, Unicorn Peak, and Castle Rock in the Cascades. Yukness, Odaray, Huber, Victoria, Lefroy, Mumm, Whyte, Thompson, and The Mitre in the Canadian Rockies. In Chamonix: Aiguille de I’M by th...
Sajama, Southwest Face. A Chilean expedition including N. Muñoz, R. Lamillay and C. Sepúlveda travelled from Arica, on the Pacific, to Sajama, Bolivia’s highest mountain. The group crossed the international frontier by the Tambo Quemado pass and a...
Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of Dogonomba, which lies on the main ridge immediately south of Reddomain. Loehr had been guiding an American Alpine Inst...
Inglefield Mountains. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club, was the third in a series organized by one of us (Cochran) that has been aimed at exploratory mountaineering around Makinson Inlet in southeast Ellesmere Island. The first (Au...
East Face of Day Needle, Mount Whitney. The majestic east face of Mount Whitney and its flanking cirque walls present a striking balance of architectural form with the pyramidal main face and the two parallel buttresses of Day and Keeler Needles. ...
Ocshapalca, South Face, Carás I, South Face and Other Peaks. Our group of Swiss were Vincent Banderet, Rafaël Rabout, André Duffey, Paula Scherer and I. In Huaraz we were joined by three Canadians, Jocelyn Ouellet and Isabelle and Thierry Legouis....
FALLING ROCK Washington, Cathedral RockAbout 10:30 a.m. on September 23, our party was proceeding up to the chockstone on the Northwest couloir on Cathedral Rock. I was leading the party approximately 50 feet ahead, in order to determine the rope-...
RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE—TECHNIQUE (SPEED AND CONTROL)North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn January 1 Nathan Lane (23), with the U.S. Army, was being video taped in the Amphitheater to see how fast he could descend via “Australian Rappel” (...
Barron Saddle – Mt. Brewster Region, summary. With plums still to be picked, this extensive and remote mountain tract between the Aoraki Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring areas has seen continued activity from a motivated few. Guidebook author Ross Cullen...
Ikamiut Fjord, West Greenland. Our expedition comprised eight members of St. Andrews University, Scotland, led by Dr. Philip Gribbon. The others were Dr. Iain Smart, Bill Leddingham, Chris Doake, Jimmy Gilchrist, Ron Hilditch, Stuart Haworth and M...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (2). The British Joint Service Expedition of six men had reached 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route of Mt. McKinley on about June 25. Camp had been established and the party was ready to proceed to the summit. John H. Oldh...
Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota. From July 6 to 24 Monsieur J. and Mme S. Badier, M. Berquet, J. R. Bertucca, Mme N. Casile, G. Cerruti, C. Choquet, Dr. M. and Mme A. Drevet, Mile M. F. Gay, Mile L. Laporte, M. So...
Nanda Devi East Attempt and Tragedy. The British Garhwal Himalayan Expedition to Nanda Devi comprised Alan Kimber, David Challis, William (Ben) Beattie, Andrew Wielochowski, David Nottidge and me as leader. We suffered three major set-backs: (1) s...