FALL ON ROCK – HANDHOLD CAME LOOSEAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn May 23, a climber had a leader fall approximately 140 metres up the route Bottleneck (5.8, seven pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. The leader sustained a broken ankle. The p...
K2 Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and I arrived at the traditional K2 Base Camp at 5000 meters on June 16. Erhard Loretan had had to drop out of the team when in February he was swept down by an avalanche on the Mönch and suffered serious back injur...
Fatal Accident on Mount Howson. Major R. C. Gibson, M.C., President of the Alpine Club of Canada, died on August 20 after a fall on Mount Howson, highest peak of the Howson Range, in western British Columbia. In the death of Rex the mountains clai...
Lhotse. A two-man Korean expedition completed the 20th ascent of Lhotse. Leader Heo Young-Ho reached the summit via the west face on October 14.Elizabeth Hawley
Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. Maurice Dupont-Roc and his wife Andrée, Mme Martine Salembier, Mlle Martine Regnault, Charles Russignaga, Noël Humbert, Bernard Constantin, Patrice Bruner, the Swiss Hans Peter Duttle and I as leader spent 25 d...
In 2007, on a visit with Markus Haid, I managed the first one-day ascent of Arctandria on the north face of Blamannen. I was so impressed that I decided to return in July with Much Mayr. During the first trip my eyes continually strayed left acros...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCE Washington, North Cascades National ParkOn August 11, 1988, Katrina Kretsinger (22) fractured her pelvis in a fall on Bear Mountain. She describes the accident on an AAC Accident Report Form.We wer...
The Fin, North Face. Dallas Kloke and I climbed this face (Kan- geroo Ridge) on June 23. NCCS II, F7.Bryce Simon, unaffiliated
Mount Neacola, North Face Attempt. On May 1 Kennan Harvey and I flew from Kenai to Lake Clark National Park with six weeks of supplies. On May 10 we did the first ascent of Mount Anklyosaur and skied a 1,500-foot couloir off its shoulder. Then we ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO SPOTTER California, Yosemite Valley, Swan SlabOn July 23, 1992, Michael Poulin fell about eight feet to the ground while bouldering in the Swan Slab area. He sustained a severely angulated right ankle fracture. (Source: C. Jacobi,...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEColorado, Clear Creek CanyonAndy (28) and his partner Tamie (28) were climbing at Canal Zone during the evening of June 21. Andy had clipped the last bolt on Holiday Road (5.8) and was climbing to anchors on a ...
Lawa Brakk. A British Metropolitan Police expedition was led by Gordon A. Briggs. On July 29, after a seven-day climb, Arthur Collins, Lew Hardy, Steven Sands, Philip Solt, Peter Stapely and Paul Vardon reached the summit of Lawa Brakk or Snow Lak...
Peaks above the Biafo Glacier. After considerable trouble in getting to Skardu by air from Rawalpindi, we hired a jeep to take us and our gear to Dasso, the end of the road. We commenced the three-day walk to Askole, the last village. This section...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (3)—On August 19, 1956, after having completed an ascent of the Grand Teton, a Sierra Club party was descending over some rather rough terrain above the “Lower Saddle.” Dr. Jean E. Michels (35) came to a ledge wh...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn the evening of June 1, 1994, Bennett Austin (29) developed a severe case of acute mountain sickness while climbing between 19,000 and 19,400 feet on the West Rib route of Mount...
Sepu Kangri, first ascent. A seven-member team of mountaineers from the U.S. made the first ascent of Sepu Kangri in the Nyainchentanglha Range (previously attempted by Christian Bonington and Charles Clarke—see AAJ 1998, 1999). Mark Newcomb and C...
Peaks in the Endicott Mountains, Brooks Range. In late July I spent a few days at the headwaters of the Iniakuk River, six to eight miles north-northeast of Ernie Lake. The approach was up and through a series of unique canyons with stair-stepped ...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. The Arctic Expedition of the German Institute for Foreign Exploration was led by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. As a preparation for the 1968 German North Pole Expedition, it had been hoped to send members both to the S...
FALLING ROCK, STRANDEDAlaska, Alaska Range, Coffee Glacier, EyetoothOn June 15, JJ Brooks (33) was hit by fragments from a large falling rock that had separated from the main rock face. The falling rock had also cut his climbing rope, stranding hi...
High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering, by James Ramsey Ullman, 8 vo., 334 pp., illustrations and maps. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1941. Price $3.75.This is as good a popular history of mountaineering as any in the language. It is...