Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
India, Himachal Pradesh, Eastern Garhwal, Changabang, West Face, Boardman-Tasker, Attempt

Changabang, west face, Boardman-Tasker Route, attempt. The boulders basked in the sun, 9½km of them, wave after wave of rock misery. Waiting. The chance of breaking an ankle, breaking a leg, or being trapped by two closing together like the doors ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Nanda Devi East, Northeast Ridge Attempt and South Ridge Ascent

Nanda Devi East, Northeast Ridge Attempt and South Ridge Ascent. Our attempt on the northeast ridge of Nanda Devi East failed because a lack of snow gave rise to objective dangers. We moved to the south ridge and made the first alpine-style ascent...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Cerro Cuerno, Southwest Face, First Romanian Ascent

Cerro Cuerno, Southwest Face, First Romanian Ascent. On February 19 and 20, C. Lacatusu and O. Batar made the first Romanian ascent of Cerro Cuerno (5462 m) via the southwest face with on bivouac 70 meters below the summit. It was a very nice rout...


Accident Reports AAJ
Northern Cascades: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District, Washington

Northern Cascades: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District, Washington. On 14 September 1947 a girl fell from Guye Peak while she was descending unroped, in the dark. She was seriously injured. She had done no previous climbing, and the two others in the par...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Switzerland, Matterhorn

Matterhorn. During the summer of 1946 an additional ascent of the North Face was made. The full list is now as follows: (1) Franz and Toni Schmid, 31 July 1931; (2) Schmidbauer and Leis, 16-19 July 1934; (3) Dr. Bauer and Hermann Steuri, 24 July 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Wasatch Range, Ski Traverse

Wasatch Range, Ski Traverse. It was reported that Doug Byerly, Jon Allen and Lome Glick made perhaps the first “high ski traverse” of the Wasatch Range. Starting at the southern end of the range with Mt. Nebo, the trio spent 23 days covering 250 m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported

The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. On June 25, 1998, Zack Smith and I made the second ascent of The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs on the Eye Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. Our first attempt end...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. McKinley Peak

Mt. McKinley Park. Parties travelling from the road near Wander Lake and crossing the McKinley Fork (draining Muldrow Glacier), and then crossing several headwaters of Clearwater Creek, finally turn up Newcomer Creek and cross a ridge at its head ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons, Inexperience Washington, Mt. Rainier

About 10:30 a.m. on July 31, 1980, Donald Morgan (48) who was leading one of two roped teams descending the Emmons Glacier, lost control of his sitting glissade when he dropped his right leg; this caused his crampon to catch in such a way that i...

| Published N/A


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Failure to Follow Route, No Hard Hat — North Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Bloody Crack

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Bloody CrackIn late November, two people began climbing Bloody Crack (5.8), a popular rock climb on the south side of Looking Glass. The fir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir, North-Northwest Face, Attempt

Tirich Mir, North-Northwest Face, Attempt. A seven-member Spanish Tirich Mir expedition led by Carlos Soria Fontan (56) made an unsuccessful attempt on the north-northwest face route on Tirich Mir (7706 m). The group was attempting to make the sec...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Winter Ice Climbs

Winter Ice Climbs. In March Bill Robins and I climbed a new frozen waterfall located in Santiquin Canyon. This climb—Angel of Fear—consisted of a single, mostly detached 200-foot pillar of ice. We ascended the left side of the pillar, up much over...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — California, Yosemite Valley

FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 26, 1982 John Rahhal (22) broke a tibia and fibula when he fell from a climb called “Doggie Deviation” in Camp IV. He was 15–16 meters off the ground when his foot slipped out of a crack. He fell about...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo

Chimborazo. Italian A. Campanile made what he feels was a new route to the right of the Direttissima to the summit of Cima Ventimilla. There were considerable difficulties in the ice of the upper part, especially below the final séracs, where the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Ski Mountaineering — Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Peyto Glacier

FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Peyto GlacierOn April 15, 1984, in Banff National Park, a party of six ski mountaineers traveled from the Icefield Parkway, via Peyto Lake, to the Peter and Catherine Whyte hut at 2500 mete...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness—Colitis, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

ILLNESS–COLITISAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1825 on May 19, Christopher Allewell (age unknown) was assisted into the 14,200-foot NPS medical tent by his teammates. His chief complaint was severe abdominal pain and a mild headache. Upon ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Teram Kangri II, 1975

Teram Kangri 11, 1978. On page 298 of A.A.J., 1981 we reported a 1980 Indian expedition which crossed the Cease-Fire Line and entered what is generally considered to be Pakistan. This was apparently not the first such expedition. The Himalayan Jou...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock—Pinned Climber, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route

FALLING ROCK-PINNED CLIMBERBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain RouteOn August 20, ten Golden Search and Rescue members responded along with Parks Canada and Canadian Mountain Helicopters to rescue a climber pinned under a rock...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Bhrikuti Unclimbed?

Bhrikuti Unclimbed? After considerable effort, the Austrian Himalayan Society got permission to enter the restricted Mustang area to attempt Bhrikuti, the highest of the Damodar Himal. (See A.A.J., 1983, page 246 for details.) Since it was said to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Whale's Back, Avalanche Peak and Citadel, Kichatna Spires

Whale’s Back, Avalanche Peak and Citadel, Kichatna Spires. My husband Gino Buscaini, Helma Schimke and I were flown to the Shadows Glacier by Doug Geetings. We all climbed Whale’s Back by the north ridge on May 22, Avalanche Peak by the east face ...