On September 23 Luciano Fiorenza and Pablo Pontoriero (Argentina) opened an important new route on the impressive east face of Cerro Vallecitos. They started from Salto base camp, with high winds that prevailed during the previous night stopping...
FALLING ROCK California, Mount WhitneyOn July 29, 1989, Rob Weingruber (22) and Walker White (23) were climbing the East Face route on Mount Whitney. They had reached the Grand Staircase (about 1500 meters below the summit) when Rob was struck on ...
Nameless Tower Attempt, Trango Towers. There were four of us, three Japanese, Noboru Yamada, Kasuhiro Saito and Kenji Yoshida, and I from Poland. Still today I don’t understand what happened on the Trango Towers. On the 19th day after establishing...
Shivling (6543m), first ski descent. Emmanuel Ratouis led a three-member team, which reached the summit via the west ridge in a 20-hour push from base camp over May 7-8. Ratouis then made the first ski descent of the mountain. Apart from an 80-met...
Shivling. A four-man Japanese group led by Yoshikazu Inoue climbed the south face of Shivling alpine-style. After establishing Base Camp on August 3, they failed on the west ridge at 6150 meters. On August 19, Takuo Fujiwara and Hidetoshi Sawada s...
Dhaulagiri Tragedy. Two Romanian women, Mrs. Taina Coliban and Mrs. Sandita Isaila disappeared on the normal northeast-ridge route of Dhaulagiri. Mrs. Caliban was 48 years old and Mrs. Isaila 42. Perhaps because of their age, they were extremely s...
Cerro Grande, East Ridge. On February 12, 1994, Spaniards Iñaki Ruiz and Pedro Udaondo climbed the east ridge of Cerro Grande. This was an ice climb with a vertical rise of 450 meters.
Immortal Wife, by Irving Stone. 8vo., 456 pages and list of sources; no illustrations. New York : Doubleday Doran & Co., 1944. Price $3.00This is the biography of Jessie Benton Fremont, daughter of Thomas Hart Benton, first Senator from Missou...
Mount Proboscis, Grendel. From mid-July to August, Chris Righter, Greg Epperson, Chris Kalous and I established Grendel (VI 5.10 A4) on the southeast face of Mount Proboscis, which followed a thin seam between Yukon Tears and the Original Route. T...
Pumori Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempts. There were ten expeditions in the autumn to Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet). All climbed or attempted the southeast ridge to the east ridge except where noted. The following expeditions were successful: ...
Sam (“Alone”). Tomo Cesen. Didakta, Ljubljana, Yugoslavia, 1990. 160 pages, 120 photographs in color.From the title of this book, Sam, which means “alone” in Slovene, it is apparent that Tomo Cesen has made many of his extreme climbs solo. These h...
Chang Himal, north face. In the autumn Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made the first ascent of the 1,800m north face of Chang Himal (6,802m). The pair climbed the central spur in four days, finding the main difficulties on a series of rock bands, ...
LIGHTNING—Wyoming, Grand Teton. Jane Constantino (28) and Ralph Hill were climbing the Petzoldt Ridge on the Grand when a large thunderstorm, including hail and snow, hit them from the west. The party reached the notch at the top of the lower ridg...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMaine, Acadia National Park, Dorr MountainAbout 1245 on January 8, Sam Woodward (50), an experienced climber from Surry, was almost at the top of a 70 foot ice route called “The Bulge” when he fell. He does not re...
Mount Waddington Area. In July, 1980, Chris LaRocca and I failed in an attempt to climb Mount Waddington. We did enjoy success on nearby Mounts Argiewicz, Dragonback (“Shand”), and Claw Peak. In July, 1981, we returned with Gus Benner and Joe Davi...
hWyoming, Grand Teton National Park (7),Teepe’s Pillar—On September 6, Joseph E. Murphy (29) and Charles Crush were rappelling off Teepe’s Pillar. A piton pulled out and Murphy fell about 15 to 20 feet landing in a sitting position. Crush had gone...
El Capitan, Lurking Fear, First Free Ascent. We’d come to free the Muir. My partner wigged at the possibility of being bombed by the crowds on The Shield, even after we had onsighted 11 pitches up to Mammoth Terraces. So he went home. Orphaned and...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 28, 1978, at 8 a.m., Phillip Bard (29) and Gary Gissendaner (21) began climbing Quarter Dome’s north face. The climb went well, with an average of a pitch an hour be...
Cholatse, northeast face, third ascent, with variation finish. After our ascent of Kyajo Ri described above, we trekked to the foot of Cholatse (6,440m), arriving below the northeast face on November 2. This was Seth’s second visit to the mountain...
California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan. On April 12, Paul Delany (22) and Charles Raymond (20) attempted “the slack” route on the southwest side of El Capitan. The accident occurred on the second pitch. Raymond had just finished the most d...