Book Reviews AAJ
Norman Clyde of the Sierra Nevada

Norman Clyde of the Sierra Nevada, by Norman Clyde, with Foreword by Francis Farquhar, Prologue by Jules Eichorn, and a long letter by Smoke Blanchard. San Francisco: Scrimshaw Press, 1971. 180 pages, 20 photographsWe … proceeded down the canyon, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Slesov (Russian Tower, 4,240m), Northwest Face, Odessa Route Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin

I’m not sure why I first visited the Karavshin, but since my first visit in 1998 I have returned four times. The place stays the same, yet with every visit I find something new. This year we went early and summited on June 30. I saw nothing famili...

| Published 2009 | Author Alexander Lavrinenko


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Kokshaal-Too, Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), First Ascent, Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), Second Ascent

Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer of 2003 our group—Mikhail Daineko, Dmitrii Konilov, Mikhail Ageev, Anna Perever-zeva, and myself as lea...


Book Reviews AAJ
Manaslu 1952-3

Manaslu 1952-3, by members of the Japanese Manaslu Expeditions. 217 pages in Japanese, 17 pages in English, with 124 photographs, 4 sketch maps, and 13 illustrations. Tokyo: The Mainichi Newspapers, 1954.During the past three years, Manaslu has qu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Shri Parvat, Attempt and Bhagat Peak, Ascent

Shri Parvat, attempt and Bhagat Peak, ascent. Rajesh Gadgil’s nine member team from Bombay planned to attempt the second ascent of the beautiful 6175m fluted snow peak, Shri Parvat, which rises from the Deo Dekhni Plateau west of Mana-Badrinath an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Vernyi (5,250m), North Summit, Cztery Pory Roku Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too

On August 13 and l4 Andrzej Sokolowski and I established a new route on the north summit of Pik Vernyi. We had attempted this line in 2009, but near the end of the major difficulties, I was hit on the shoulder by a large chunk of ice that damaged ...

| Published 2011 | Author Michel Krol


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Thalay Sagar

Thalay Sagar. An expedition from La Rioja was composed of Juan Carlos Bahillo, leader, Germán Bahillo, Francisco Claro, Ignacio Fermín Pascual, Santiago Palacios and Jordi Corominas. They climbed the American route on the west ridge, probably the ...


Feature Article AAJ
The Third American Ascent of Mont Blanc

The Third American Ascent of Mont Blanc(George W. Heard, Jr.—1855)The manuscript which follows is the earliest hitherto unpublished account of an American ascent of Mont Blanc. Its author (1837-1905) was, in 1855, the youngest man ever to have att...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Early in 1956 the Sierra Nevada Section proposed that an informal A.A.C. camp be held in an effort to promote increased contact among club members. The Tetons were chosen as the site, because of their relatively conv...


In Memoriam AAJ
Dave Bridges, 1970-1999

DAVE BRIDGES 1970-1999“The only death you die is the death you die every day by not living. Dream big and dare to fail.”—Norman VaughanAdventure as an addiction, as a passionate need, true compassion for life on the “front lines”—there was no othe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Protection Pulled Out, New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle Gully

FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle GullyOn March 20, a group of three climbers fell while simul-climbing upper pitches of Pinnacle Gully. It was a very busy Saturday in Huntington Ravine. Temperatures Frida...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alan Rouse: A Mountaineer's Life

Alan Rouse: A Mountaineer’s Life. Geoff Birtles, compiler. Unwin Hyman, London, 1987. 224 pages, 9 color and 14 black and white photographs. $28.95.When viewed by the parochial American eye, most British climbing biographies chronicle remarkably s...


Notes AAJ
Revival of "Linda di Chamouni" at the Metropolitan

Revival of “Linda di Chamouni'’ at the MetropolitanThis opera, one of the few in Alpine setting, was the delight of our forefathers. Donizetti wrote it on command for production in Vienna in 1842, and it was given in London at Her Majesty’s Theatr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95

Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95. [Because the American Alpine Journal goes to press before the complete record for the current season is on hand, we are very grateful to Chris Breemer for his information written at the beginning of Mar...


Feature Article AAJ
Mazeno Ridge

Mazeno RidgeNanga Parbat’s 10~kilometer ridge caps a multi~peak Pakistan Summer, albeit without an 8,000m summit.Doug ChabotSteve Swenson pulled a photo out of his back pocket. “We should do this,” he prodded, showing me the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kojichuwa Valley Exploration Asia, Nepal, Kanti Himal

The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick Colton, Ed Douglas, Julian Freeman-Attwood, and Rob Greaves. In 2007 Colton and Freeman-Attwood had been part of a team tha...

| Published N/A | Author Lindsay Griffin


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Came Off, Inadequate Protection, Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock

RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SLING CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock.On April 17, Charles Comstock (34) and Jay Schifferdecker (27) hiked up the third-class approach ramps to the Chouinard-Herbert route...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboo Group, Crescent Tower

Crescent Tower. On the Crescent Tower, Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic climbed a new route, West Side Story (270 meters, III 5.10a).Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Kangchenjunga, Southwest Face, Partial New Route/Direct Finish, La Luce del Nirvana

Kangchenjunga, southwest face, partial new route/direct finish, La Luce del Nirvana. Of the five expeditions attempting 8,586m Kangchenjunga, two were successful with all summiteers reaching the top on the same day. Four of these teams were attemp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Various Ascents

Reru Valley, various ascents. In August nine young climbers from Geneva, with guides Stéfane Schaffer and I, climbed three new peaks in the Reru Valley. From Leh it took three days by vehicle to reach the village of Reru, from where we took horses...

| Published N/A