Passu Peak. A Japanese-Pakistani Armed Forces expedition made the first ascent of Passu Peak (23,810 feet) on July 3. The Pakistani leader was Major Manzoor Hussein and the Japanese leader was Lieutenant Isao Fukura. The promised report has not ye...
Thompson Peak, Northeast Face, Sawtooths. On September 3, 1968 John Kahm and I climbed a new route on Thompson’s northeast face. The face is split by a large couloir. After ascending the short snowfield below, we began the climb on the right side ...
P 7317 and P 6188, Thompson Ridge Area, Chugach Mountains. A joint trip by Bob Jacobs of the St. Elias Alpine Guides and Matt Culberson of the American Alpine Institute made two first ascents in June. The group of ten made Base Camp on the south s...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITY Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount RundleOn July 29, a solo climber was ascending the normal scramble/hiking route on Mount Rundle. He scrambled up a gully above trail into the steep technical rock slabs and could no l...
Nilgiri Central. Our Matsuyama University Expedition was composed of Keizo Shigematsu, Jun’ichi Yuyama, Kohichi Sakata, Toshiro Hamada, Yasuo Tsuda, Dr. Toru Itano and me as leader. We flew by helicopter from Chhoya in the Kali Gandaki valley to B...
Bustle Tower, Lotus Flower Tower, Parrot Beak Peak, Proboscis. In the Cirque of the Unclimbables Jonathan Copp made a series of impressive ascents with various partners. With Brooke Andrews he established the Don’t Get Piggy (V 5.12a) variation to...
Helena Peak, The Checkered Demon. This route begins approximately 200 yards right of the Beckey, Nephew, and Wagner route (A.A.J., 1971) and joins it on the last lead. The first attempt was made by Jerry Kilner and Dave Davis in the summer of 1970...
Stanford Alpine Club. During 1965 the Stanford Alpine Club sponsored its usual weekly practice climbs to local rocks. Safety was emphasized in all climbing activities. Dynamic belay practices were held, and club members received special instructio...
Mount Everest. The 1966 Chinese attempt on Everest through the north face failed, although it was made in May when all successful climbs have been made. The 26-member team was given French high-altitude clothing, but this was not adequate. They we...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Albert Fellinger, Dr. Wolfgang Trost, Gerhard Berger, Toni Ponholzer, Helmut Ortner, Sebastian Ruckensteiner and me as leader. We left Bumtang on July 28 and took ten days, two of them inactively,...
Ishinca and San Juan. My wife Ruth, sons Frederick and John, and I with the Peruvian porter Humberto Henostroza climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) on July 15 and Urus (18,028 feet) on July 16. Then from the Quebrada Shallap we ascended Huamashraju (17,...
Nameless Tower, Yugoslavian Route, and Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route. Alberto and Felix Iñurrategi, Jon Lazkano and Jose L. Tamiyo climbed Nameless Tower (6245 metres) via the Yugoslavian Route, summiting on June 26 at 3:30 p.m. The four then trav...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Members were active in several mountain ranges during 1950. A Club party of 13 camped at Lake Isabelle, in the Arapaho group of the Colorado Front Range, from July 31st to August 10th, and climbed all the major peaks a...
Kohe Khandud. The Austrian Tourist Club expedition climbed in the Khandud area. The leader was Walter Stangl and the other members were Michael Dobias, Dr. Eva Köckeis and Albrecht Schmölz. On July 19 Dobias and Schmölz climbed Kohe Khandud (18,18...
New Zealanders on Everest. New Zealanders Rob Hall, Gary Ball, Bill Atkinson and Lydia Bradey were nominally part of a Slovak expedition. They reached 8100 meters on the south buttress. Lydia Bradey split off from the expedition and made an illega...
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, TetonsAbout 1300 on August 17, 1985,1 encountered Bruce McMurtrey (45) while on a mountain patrol of the Owen-Spalding Route on the Grand Teton. He was being lowered by his partners through the Owen Chimneys near the summit. H...
Man at High Altitude. Donald Heath and David Reid Williams. Churchill Livingstone, New York and London, Second edition, 1981. 347 pages, many illustrations. $65.Man at High Altitude is a second, extensively revised edition of a major book, probabl...
Mercedario, South Face, and Other Peaks. The Austrian Natur- freunde Andean Expedition, led by Othmar Kucera, climbed the 8000- foot north face of Mercedario (21,884 feet) in two days. They made a solo ascent of the south face of Cerro Negro (19,0...
Mount Nuksuklorolu and “Inugsuin Point Buttress,” Baffin Island, 1989. To most climbers, Baffin Island is synonomous with Auyuittuq Park. However that is only a tiny segment of one of the world’s major and least climbed-in ranges that extends from...
Narao Peak. On September 1, 1972 Tim Auger and I climbed the right or more northerly of the two couloirs on Narao Peak. This ten-pitch gully of predominantly green ice at about 45° is perhaps a bit longer than the one ascended by Carman and Chouin...