Peak 7547. This peak, located in the North Cascades north of Cutthroat Peak, was climbed last September by Trish and Charley Raymond and me by the prominent Northeast Arête. The climb begins in a deep chimney and the last lead terminates directly ...
Pasayten Wilderness, Amphitheater Peak, Cathedral Peak, Deacon Peak, three new routes. Alpine climbing, especially new routing, can be an uncomfortable, frightening, and challenging experience, one whose merits are only truly appreciated in hindsi...
Mount Asgard, East Face, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. We were lured back into the Canadian Arctic by two granite walls that reached into the sky, making a beautiful 2000-foot dihedral on the west face of Asgard (6600 feet). Californian Den...
Mt. Cook, first ski descent and probable third ascent. On May 5 Paul Swanstrom of Haines (Alaska Mountain Flying and Travel) flew Peter Linn, Andrew McGarry, Kiajsa Krieger, Scott Morely, and I from Yakutat to a landing zone on the upper Seward Gl...
FALL ON ROCK, SOLO CLIMBING WITH NO PROTECTIONColorado, Boulder Canyon, The DomeOn October 26, Scott Hamilton (49) lost his grip while climbing a difficult route on The Dome without ropes, safety gear, or a helmet. He fell more than 150 feet, hit ...
The Mountain World, 1960/61, edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Hans Richard Müller and Marcel Kurz; English version by Malcolm Barnes. Zürich: Schweizerische Stiftung fur Alpine Forschungen; New York: Rand McNally, 1961. 262 p...
Mt. Alberta, West Face. I first saw a photo of the face in a 1989 Climbing magazine. A spectacular aerial shot showed a wall of black limestone topped by a dazzlingly white summit ridge, with a rare blue sky. A gothic flying buttress, rising grace...
FALL ON ROCK-JUMPED INSTEAD OF DOWN-CLIMBINGCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Matthes CrestOn August 2 5, Mark Sorenson (3 8) and David Parrish (3 8) were climbing Matthes Crest and were about at the halfway point when this acc...
Irish Expedition to Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. We spent a month at the head of Tasermiut Fjord near Cape Farewell. The area is not renowned for good weather, but eight fine days out of thirty must be a new low. Shay Billane and Lindsay Grif...
Kwangde South or Nupla. We made the first ascent of Kwangde South, climbing its northeast ridge. [The peak lies 3 kilometers southeast of the main peak. On Erwin Schneider’s map, Shorung/Hingu it is called Nupla.—Editor.] The climbing team include...
Hypoxia; Man at High Altitude. Edited by John Sutton, Norman Jones, and Charles Houston. Thieme-Stratton, New York, 1982. 210 pages. Many illustrations. $35.Hypoxia; Man at Altitude, like the preceding book, is a collection of papers given at the ...
Climbs in the High Sierra. The publication of R.J. Secor’s Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra stimulated both a significant amount of new-route activity and a reporting of older routes that were omitted from the new guidebook. Among the new routes...
British Columbia, Tantalus Mountains, Mt. Niobe. On 20 September Nigel Eggers (23) and the other 12 members of the party were practicing ice-ax arrests on hard snow. The immediate slope was steep, but the run out was ample; it was chosen specifica...
In a snowstorm at the start of the rainy season, Robert Rauch and Eduardo Unzueta (Bolivia) and I (U.S.) climbed new ground on Piramide Blanca. We climbed a two- or three-pitch variation to the current Southwest Face Direct. I say current becaus...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, "TOO RELAXED"Arizona, Cochise StrongholdEver since my fall I have been reliving the events of that day, but I have also been psychoanalyzing why I fell. I can still vividly see the fall. I have also po...
Koh-i-Morsurq and Other Peaks, Suigal. The members of the party were R.D. Barton, I.A. Napier, D.G. Peers, D. Robinson, J.G. Tyler and I. [.Editor’s note: All were first ascents except for those marked *, which indicates a new route, or marked **,...
El Monstruo, La Gran Raja. Jerzy Stefanski and I (both Polish) created a new line on the previously unclimbed east wall of El Monstruo. After transporting our equipment to Barranca Pass (sort of our advanced base camp), we descended the next morni...
Chomo Lönzö, Attempt. The object of the expedition was the first ascent of Chomo Lönzö’s Middle Peak via the southwest face and northwest ridge. We were Eduard Birnbacher (leader, Germany), Walter Hölzler and Stefan Wiebel from Germany and Manfred...
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAn eight-member expedition climbed from 7,200 feet to 14,200 feet in three days via the West Buttress. On May 14, eight days after the start of their climb, the expedition arrived at the...
Cerro Adela, Asamblea de Majaras. Alvaro Novellón, Oscar Perez, Santi Padrós, and I had hoped to climb Cerro Torre, going directly to the Col of the Hope via A la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Marsigny-Parkin) and continuing to the summit by the Ferra...