Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Anchor Sling Knot, North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great Arch

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ANCHOR SLING KNOT North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great ArchOn May 25, I was climbing at Stone Mountain, NC. Hoping to do some sport climbing (I read that the routes were sparsely bolted) I brought only a li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Rolwaling Himal, Shishapangma, First Winter Ascent

Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find it as enthralling as 1 had imagined when as a young aspiring alpinist I read of the big undertakings on the great mountains of the E...


Book Reviews AAJ
Flowers of the Western Himalayas

Flowers of the Western Himalayas. Rupin Dang. Indus, Harper Collins, NewDelhi, India, 1993. 140 pages, many color photographs.This is a guide to a small area of the Himalaya but it covers the territory often visited by naturalists, trekkers and to...


Book Reviews AAJ
Up and Down California in 1860-1864

Up and Down California in 1S60-1864, the Journal of William H.Brewer. Edited by Francis P. Farquhar. Yale University Press, New Haven, 1930. Pp., 601 ; illustrations, 63; price, $6.00.During the past century American mountaineers have keenly follo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows

Tuolumne Meadows. In Tuolumne Meadows, face-climbing standards are being pushed higher and higher. John Bacher has almost singlehandedly rewritten the rules in an area where the bolt is the most standard protection device; many of his climbs invol...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Arthur N. Plaxton (20), and Richard O. Parmelee (20), an employee at Jackson Lake Lodge, left a note at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at 7:30 a.m. on September 3. It stated that they were goi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang IV, Southwest Face

Siguniang IV, southwest face. Our initial team of four, which intended a leisurely trip to Siguniang National Park, saw itself reduced to two: Steve Wai Wah Yip (Geordie) and I. We decided to play on granite faces in the Changping Gou, walls that ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Trends and New Routes

Washington, trends and new routes. The summer of 2003 unfolded as the driest in a century, with rainfall 70-85% below normal. Seattle temperatures topped 70 degrees for a record 61 consecutive days. The unusual number of hot, dry days resulted in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice, AMS, Exposure, Inadequate Clothing, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

SLIP ON ICE, AMS, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress.May 13, Rangers Kevin Moore and Scott Metcalfe with volunteers Jay Hammond and John Evans carried loads from 14,200 feet to 16,200 feet on the West ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountain Flowers of New England

Mountain Flowers of New England. By a committee of the Appalachian Mountain Club, Miriam Underhill, chairman. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy Street. 147 pages, ills. 32 color plates. Price $4.50.To some of us it is the flowers of the mou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, "Ice Cream Cone Mountain," Chugach Range

“Ice Cream Cone Mountain” Chugach Range. After a hair-raising crossing of the murky, rushing Matanuska River in a delapidated rowboat, John Samuelson, Hans Van der Laan and I followed fine, three-foot-wide moose freeways up the east fork of Carpen...


Feature Article AAJ
East of Lake Baikal Introducing the big granite walls of Transbaikalia, Siberia

The mountains of the Stanovoi Range are located to the east of Lake Baikal in southeastern Russia. This vast territory, referred to as Transbaikalia, is crossed by the central part of the Baikal-Amur Railroad (BAM). The mountains have an alpine ap...

| Published N/A | Author Konstantin Beketov


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Icicle, Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection Alberta, Waterton Lakes National Park, Cameron Lake Road, Pearl Necklace

On March 2, a climber was five to seven meters into a lead on Pearl Necklace (50 m. WI 5+), without placing any protection. He had placed a tool and kicked one foot into a free-hanging icicle when it broke. The climber barn-doored backward, then f...

| Published N/A


Club Activities AAJ
Central Rockies Section

Central Rockies Section. On January 21 the Section hosted the debut showing of Skiing Mount Everest and the High Himalayas in the Foss Auditorium of the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. The movie was produced by Aspen resident and AAC mem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Suffer Pony at the Disco North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Early morning on September 20, Joe Forrester and I descended the SOB Gully to climb the Porcelain Arête (IV 5.10). When we arrived at the base of the PA buttress, though, we were disheartened by a lack of significant crack or corner systems....

| Published 2009 | Author Jeremy Roop


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Attempt on Malubiting

Attempt on Malubiting. After driving to Pakistan, we had to wait for three weeks before we were granted permission on June 3 for Malubiting (24,451 feet). Our original objective in the Batura was not allowed. Four expeditions had previously unsucc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Patal Hiunchuli Attempt

Patal Hiunchuli Attempt. A seven-woman Japanese expedition was given up after Hiroko Fujii, Noriko Yamazaki and a Sherpa were killed on October 9 by an avalanche low on Patal Hiunchuli (20,890 feet). The expedition, led by Hiroko Asano, was attemp...


Club Activities AAJ
Alpine Club of Canada

Latus Pass Arm, various ascents and attempts. There are four main tributaries on the south side of Kaskawulsh Glacier: South Arm, Stairway, Cascade, and, farthest from Slims River, the Latus Pass Arm. In July we made a short visit to the Latus Pas...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Ice, No Hard Hat, Washington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham Glacier

FALLING ICE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn June 4, an ice fall occurred from the top of an 80- to 100-oot ice cliff that the climbing route crosses underneath. In the path were Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guides and cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. Brewster

Rocky Mountains of CanadaThe following data correct and supplement the 1940 edition of the Guidebook.Mt. Brezvster. 1926 first ascent by H. W. G. Greenham, Miss D. Pilley. From camp at foot of Mt. Edith, crossing Edith Pass and down Forty mile Cre...