Eldorado, West Arête. On August 24, 1969, Richard Emerson and I made the first ascent of the 2800-foot arête that leads directly up the west face to the summit of Eldorado. (Pete Schoening’s 1951 route is to the right (south) of this climb – Edito...
Stewart Valley Correction. In A.A.J., 1978 on page 553 part of the location was omitted. It should have read “70° 45’ N, 71° 30’ E.”
Peak 3596, East Face. It was reported that in June, Eddie Fay, Dan Krueger and Jay Rowe made the first ascent of the 3,000-foot east face of Peak 3596 in Prince William Sound. The trio climbed 14 rock pitches up to 5.10+ C2, followed by 1,000 feet...
Cuernos, Paine Group, Patagonia. In January, Paul Dix, Jim Mack and I entered the Paine massif, hoping to climb the Cuernos (Horns, c. 8000 feet). We were turned back 100 feet from the summit by bad rock and bad weather — and with profound respect...
Earlyn Dean 1939-2002Earlyn Dean died in her sleep at her winter home in Singer Island, Florida on March 31. Raised in Edmonton and Toronto, Earlyn spent most of her adult life in New York, New Jersey, and Vermont, where she was a part-owner of ma...
P 5800, Quimsa Cruz, 1976. A five-woman party, consisting of Taeko Noda, leader, Mieko Nagahata, Mitsuko Araki, Eriko Matsuda and Yoshiko Yamagata climbed a 5800-meter (19,029-foot) peak in the Quimsa Cruz. The peak lies southwest of Nevado Atorom...
Jimmy Chin, Giulia Monego, Kasha Rigby, and I established base camp on September 29, 2009, at 4,500m and the following day scoped a new access to the west ridge from the north. On October 4 we walked up moraine and climbed steep snow to the wes...
Victoria and Albert Mountains, Ellesmere Island. Dave Adams, Brad Albro, Steve Trafton, Al Errington, Bill Davis, Martin Waller and I spent four weeks in May and June climbing and exploring on Ellesmere Island. We flew by commercial jet from Vanco...
Mount Brewer, Northeast Face. Russell McLean and I made the first ascent of this face on September 11. The route starts in the first chimney to the right of the small overhangs on the rib leading directly up the face to the summit. We climbed abou...
Ocshapalca, South Face. Bernard Francou, Jean Michael Cambon and I reconnoitered a safe route on the east face of Cayesh but we could reach only 17,000 feet because of very bad weather. We moved across the range to Huaraz and then made a new route...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mt. RainierOn September 1, Dale Click (21) was killed when he fell 20 feet into a crevasse while descending from a glacier at the 8,800-foot level on the northeast side of Mount Rainier...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURES, AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION (INCLUDING NO HELMET)New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 18 incidents reported from this popular climbing area this year. Of the twelve falls, six were the res...
Queenstown region, summary. Winter saw the development of Cigar Creek in the Eyre Mountains as an ice climbing venue. A few new routes were established. Johnny Davison and Rupert Gardiner made first ascents of Kapa O Panga (WI 5) and the Cold Ligh...
Mount Forel. An expedition from the Omon Alpine Club of Nippon University was under the leadership of Gi Miyahara. This was the first Japanese expedition to Greenland. They left Japan on June 28 for Angmagsalik via Moscow and Iceland. They were ac...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (1). The leader of the British Joint Service Expedition and one other had advanced ahead of the main group to work out the route to higher camp sites on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. At about 15,000 feet, they were caught...
Cordillera Vilcanota. Sue Tatum and I walked in a day and a half from Aguas Calientes to the head of the Quebrada Palca in the Nudo de Vilcanota, passing several small mines and arriving at Quilcaqocha. (See Hoja Macari, survey 1938, and Hoja Sicu...
Nanda Devi East Attempt. Our expedition was composed of two women, Taeko Noda and Mitsuko Araki, and six men, Toyomichi Atsuji, Akiyoshi Saito, Minoru Tsumori, Kiyoshi Sakamaki, Nenichi Itakura and me as leader. Owing to the nuclear battery, alleg...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Central. The south buttress of Moran, which has already in the past 15 years provided three excellent and difficult routes, has yielded yet another. On July 16, Peter Koedt and Keith Becker climbed a distinct and specta...
Goat Perch, Great Gully. On June 4 Dusty Perkins and I made an ascent of the Great Gully (IV 5.8 M3) on the Goat Perch in the Sawtooth Mountains. This line may have been climbed in the past, but no record we know of exists. We searched past issues...
Noshaq. Our first objective, Urgend, was not allowed us, since the Wakhan Corridor was closed to expeditions from Western countries. On August 9 Pedro Aymerich, Conrad Blanc and José Iglesias reached the summit of Noshaq and on the 11th I climbed ...