Lhotse South Face Tragedy. Although two expeditions from Katowice, Poland had already tried this tremendous wall, both times they had lacked luck—one or two windless days when the attacking teams were high. This year we managed to organize a team ...
Mount Asgard, Northwest Face, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. In mid-July Pat Padden, Shary McVoy, Rick Sylvester, and I were finally on our way to the unclimbed northwest face of Mount Asgard. Upon our arrival at the Eskimo village of Pangni...
In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north face. Luna (430m, Nor 5+ A3) starts 15-20m right of Frost (M5 A3, Bo-Nebell, 2007) and in the first section follows a well-defined line. Above, the r...
FALLING ROCK, MOMENTARY INATTENTIVENESS Washington, Dome PeakOn August 8, 1988, Jeff Becker (29) was fatally injured while descending the south ridge of Dome Peak.We were a party of four, a family outing, having begun the Ptarmigan Traverse at Ste...
Davis Peak, Northeast Face. On July 12, Dallas Kloke and I climbed this 2000-foot face, beginning directly below the summit and reaching the summit ridge just south of it. It took one long day from our car in Diablo. NCCS III, F6.Bryce Simon, unaf...
Various Ascents in the Revelation Mountians. Doug Beyerly, Calvin Hebert, Scott Raynor, and I flew into Fish Creek Glacier in the Revelations on May 3. During our three weeks in the Revelation Mountains we ascended P. 8,215 (Goose Peak) by its nor...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, WEATHER California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure DomeOn July 14, 1992, Gary Damsley (23) and Allyson Pendleton (29) became stranded during a rain storm they experienced one pitch from the top of South Cra...
FALL ON ROCK - INCOMPLETE TIE-IN KNOTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 28, Colin Gregg (34) was top-roping the first pitch of C’est La Vie (5.9) on Redgarden Wall. He had difficulty at a crux about 30 feet off the starting belay ledge (wh...
Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition had as its members Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Steve Hartland, Phil Butler, Dave Green, Dr. Timothy Jordan, Paul Nunn and me. After porter problems, we eventually established Base Camp on July 17...
Sherpi Kangri Attempt. We did not get permission to attempt Batura Mustagh I and had to be content with unclimbed Sherpi Kangri, attempted by Japanese last year. The reason given us was that because of the construction of the Karakoram Highway the...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)—On July 11, 1956 Felix Knauth (26), Carol Rudnick (23) and Sylvia Kenshaw (32) had made an attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Owen, but did not complete the ascent and began their return to base camp. Felix K...
HYPOTHERMIA, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 22, 1994, Korean climbers Sang Myeung Lee (25) and Kee Won Kim (27) departed from the 14,200 foot West Buttress camp on Mount McKinley. They climbed the headwall west...
Kangri Garpo, reconnaissance of Ruoni (6,882m). The Alpine Club of Kobe University obtained a permit from the China Mountaineering Association (CMA) to climb the highest peak in Kangri Garpo in the fall of | 2003. In October 2002, they sent a reco...
Mount Geist, North Face. This 3000-foot face was climbed in August by Jim Jennings, Bill Kitson and Geoff Radford.
Swiss East Greenland Expedition. Max Gubser, Heiner Hagenbuch, Max Zumbühl, Ruedi Sauser, Chäpp Schindler, Otto Häfliger, Ueli Imdorf and I as leader spent eight weeks in the mountains of the so-called Schweizerland on the east coast of Greenland....
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 12, Ka Eui-Ryong of the Korean Alpine Club Su Won Expedition, was unable to stand or walk without assistance. Eui-Ryong was lowered from the 17,200 foot camp, to the 14,200 foot NPS Ranger Camp on t...
Manual of American Mountaineering, edited by Kenneth A. Henderson. American Alpine Club, New York. Privately printed for purposes of copyright and not available for distribution. Trade edition to be issued by Houghton Mifflin Co. early in 1942.Thi...
Carstensz Pyramid, Various Ascents. The main aim was to climb Carstensz and by a new route if possible. After a six-day approach, we arrived at basecamp. On May 10, Tom Callaghan, Chris Brown, Mark Bowen and myself left for Carstenz East. We scram...
M.ount Challenger, West Peak. The first ascent of this peak was made by Ellie Street, Fred Beckey and me on July 14 from a Base Camp on Challenger Arm by angling across and up the Challenger Glacier to the west ridge of the peak. We ascended very ...
Holz Bemalen, Kerb Schnitzen, by Christian Rubi. 135 pages, profusely illustrated by drawings and photgraphs, with several color plates. Bern: Verlag Hans Huber, 1951. Price, $3.25.The Bernese Heimatschutz, which encourages the perpetuation of old...