EDWARD FEUZ, JR.1884-1981At the time of his death at age 96, this patriarch of alpine guides and our honorary member showed that the practice of alpinism, with its associated rigorous activity, was conducive to a long, healthy and productive life....
Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter Jones, and I established The Devil Rides Out (700m, 20 pitches, ED 5.10 A4). We climbed on 11 of our 13 days in the Bader Valley,...
FALL ON HARD SNOW–SLACK IN THE ROPEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 12 at 1545, four members of a seven-person Mountaineers group, Chris Clapton, Rebekah Koch, Theresa Fielding, and Tom Labrie, were descending the Emmons on one rop...
Tetons, 1953. The summer of 1953 saw a fever of climbing activity in the Grand Teton National Park unmatched by any previous year. Not only were the regular routes kept busy, but first ascents, new routes, and other unusual climbs were made by the...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–ICE AX ON PACK INSTEAD OF IN HANDS, DARKNESSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn March 31, a climber injured his leg after falling down Tuckerman Ravine. He was with two friends. The three of t...
Southwestern Mountaineers. Since the initial meeting of our climbing club was in October 1955, our lack of collective experience caused us to postpone any major climbs for that year. We have, however, established a short training course in the fun...
FALLING ROCK – FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Mount WhitneyOn October 3rd, two men were climbing the East Buttress route (5.7) on Mount Whitney. They were on a ledge at 13,500 feet when a large rock fell from abov...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth CenturyPart IIDr. B. L. Ball (1820-59), graduate of Harvard medical school in 1844, author of Rambles in Eastern Asia (1855) and Three Days on the White Mountains (1856),1 was the first Am...
Tamchok Kambab Kangri. While exploring the source of the Brahmaputra River for the National Geographic Society, I made a solo first ascent of the peak immediately above the two source glaciers about 60 miles southeast of Kailas. Tamchok Kambab mea...
Kara-su valley, Asan, Alperien Route, variant finish. Through friends in China who had contacts with local Kyrgyz, I acquired permission to visit an area in Uzbekistan. I got the idea from photos taken from a helicopter by an Austrian friend. Our ...
The Mountain World 1956/57. Edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Othmar Gurtner and Marcel Kurz; English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 200 pages; ills. Price $6.00.The current issue of T...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 11, 1992, Dave Fulton (31) and Robert Bums were descending from a carry to Windy Corner on the West Buttress back to their camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. They we...
South Face of St. EliasWalter R. Gove and Andrew PolitzGOVE BEGINS: There are mountains in the world, a few, which have a quality that sets them apart from all others. St. Elias is such a mountain. At 18,008 feet it stands isolated, facing the Gul...
Mt. Mustagh Ata, East Ridge. In 1994, Dan Waugh had seen and photographed the east ridge of Mustagh Ata (7546m) and suggested we might try to be the first to climb it. Through correspondence with Japanese Alpine Club members, including Masanori Su...
Latok I, attempt; Porter Peak, first ascent. On August 22 Whit Magro and I arrived on the Chok- toi Glacier for my second trip in as many years to the north side of Latok I (7,145m). Last year Bean Bowers and I spent 42 days below Latok without an...
With You in SpiritA solo climb with an old friendby Conrad AnkerInterior Antarctica is a desolate place. The diversity and amount of vegetation of a normal suburban lawn far exceeds the sum of living things in the Ellsworth Mountains. The land is ...
Mount Thompson, Winter Ascent. Jim McCarthy and I made the first winter ascent via the east ridge in early February, 1975.Greg Markov
Nuptse, south pillar attempt. The Nuptse International South Face Expedition (a.k.a. the Slo/Can/Am—emphasis on Slo) was concluded at the end of May, 2002. Team members were Marko Prezelj (Slovenia), Barry Blanchard (Canada), Stephen Koch (USA), a...
Strung-out deep in the remote mountains of northern Pakistan in early September, Vince Anderson and Steve House heard drumming. They saw fires burning in the valley below, a region reportedly rife with Islamic militants. In the ensuing days, all t...
A Chamois Hunt at Anzeindaz in 1770The story which follows contains one of the most entertaining hunting adventures of the eighteenth century. The writer was a young theological student, Johannes Gabriel Fayod, of Bex, a correspondent of the elder...