In Memoriam AAJ
Edward Feuz Jr., 1884-1981

EDWARD FEUZ, JR.1884-1981At the time of his death at age 96, this patriarch of alpine guides and our honorary member showed that the practice of alpinism, with its associated rigorous activity, was conducive to a long, healthy and productive life....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Cuerno Norte, the Devil Rides Out

Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter Jones, and I established The Devil Rides Out (700m, 20 pitches, ED 5.10 A4). We climbed on 11 of our 13 days in the Bader Valley,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Hard Snow—Slack in the Rope, Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons Glacier

FALL ON HARD SNOW–SLACK IN THE ROPEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 12 at 1545, four members of a seven-person Mountaineers group, Chris Clapton, Rebekah Koch, Theresa Fielding, and Tom Labrie, were descending the Emmons on one rop...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, 1953

Tetons, 1953. The summer of 1953 saw a fever of climbing activity in the Grand Teton National Park unmatched by any previous year. Not only were the regular routes kept busy, but first ascents, new routes, and other unusual climbs were made by the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow/Ice, Inadequate Equipment—Ice Ax on Pack Instead of in Hands, Darkness, New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman Ravine

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–ICE AX ON PACK INSTEAD OF IN HANDS, DARKNESSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn March 31, a climber injured his leg after falling down Tuckerman Ravine. He was with two friends. The three of t...


Club Activities AAJ
Southwestern Mountaineers

Southwestern Mountaineers. Since the initial meeting of our climbing club was in October 1955, our lack of collective experience caused us to postpone any major climbs for that year. We have, however, established a short training course in the fun...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — Fall on Rock, California, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Mount Whitney

FALLING ROCK – FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Mount WhitneyOn October 3rd, two men were climbing the East Buttress route (5.7) on Mount Whitney. They were on a ledge at 13,500 feet when a large rock fell from abov...


Feature Article AAJ
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth Century

A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth CenturyPart IIDr. B. L. Ball (1820-59), graduate of Harvard medical school in 1844, author of Rambles in Eastern Asia (1855) and Three Days on the White Mountains (1856),1 was the first Am...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Tamchok Kambab Kangri

Tamchok Kambab Kangri. While exploring the source of the Brahmaputra River for the National Geographic Society, I made a solo first ascent of the peak immediately above the two source glaciers about 60 miles southeast of Kailas. Tamchok Kambab mea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Asan, Alperien Route, Variant Finish

Kara-su valley, Asan, Alperien Route, variant finish. Through friends in China who had contacts with local Kyrgyz, I acquired permission to visit an area in Uzbekistan. I got the idea from photos taken from a helicopter by an Austrian friend. Our ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Mountain World 1956/57

The Mountain World 1956/57. Edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Othmar Gurtner and Marcel Kurz; English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 200 pages; ills. Price $6.00.The current issue of T...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into Crevasse, Unroped, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 11, 1992, Dave Fulton (31) and Robert Bums were descending from a carry to Windy Corner on the West Buttress back to their camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. They we...


Feature Article AAJ
South Face of St. Elias

South Face of St. EliasWalter R. Gove and Andrew PolitzGOVE BEGINS: There are mountains in the world, a few, which have a quality that sets them apart from all others. St. Elias is such a mountain. At 18,008 feet it stands isolated, facing the Gul...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Mt. Mustagh Ata, East Ridge

Mt. Mustagh Ata, East Ridge. In 1994, Dan Waugh had seen and photographed the east ridge of Mustagh Ata (7546m) and suggested we might try to be the first to climb it. Through correspondence with Japanese Alpine Club members, including Masanori Su...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Latok i, Attempt; Porter Peak, First Ascent

Latok I, attempt; Porter Peak, first ascent. On August 22 Whit Magro and I arrived on the Chok- toi Glacier for my second trip in as many years to the north side of Latok I (7,145m). Last year Bean Bowers and I spent 42 days below Latok without an...


Feature Article AAJ
With You in Spirit, A Solo Climb with an Old Friend

With You in SpiritA solo climb with an old friendby Conrad AnkerInterior Antarctica is a desolate place. The diversity and amount of vegetation of a normal suburban lawn far exceeds the sum of living things in the Ellsworth Mountains. The land is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Mount Thompson, Winter Ascent

Mount Thompson, Winter Ascent. Jim McCarthy and I made the first winter ascent via the east ridge in early February, 1975.Greg Markov


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Nuptse, South Pillar Attempt

Nuptse, south pillar attempt. The Nuptse International South Face Expedition (a.k.a. the Slo/Can/Am—emphasis on Slo) was concluded at the end of May, 2002. Team members were Marko Prezelj (Slovenia), Barry Blanchard (Canada), Stephen Koch (USA), a...


Editorials And Prefaces AAJ
PreFace

Strung-out deep in the remote mountains of northern Pakistan in early September, Vince Anderson and Steve House heard drumming. They saw fires burning in the valley below, a region reportedly rife with Islamic militants. In the ensuing days, all t...


Feature Article AAJ
A Chamois Hunt at Anzeindaz in 1770

A Chamois Hunt at Anzeindaz in 1770The story which follows contains one of the most entertaining hunting adventures of the eighteenth century. The writer was a young theological student, Johannes Gabriel Fayod, of Bex, a correspondent of the elder...