Unnamed peak on the Spaghetti Glacier, Miyar Valley, The Last Minute Journey. Making an alpine ascent in the Himalaya is often a dream for young climbers. It’s the same as packing only two bags and heading to the big mountains for the most beautif...

Treading Softly on TiedemannMeeting the challenge in Canada’s untrammeled playgroundSimon Richardson, ScotlandThe Combatant-Tiedemann-Asperity Wall is one of the greatest mountain features in Canada. Deep in the heart of British Columbia’s Coast M...

La Montagne. (Published under the direction of Maurice Herzog, with the collaboration of Courthion, Couzy, Escarra, Franco, Grandpierre, Kempf, Languepin, Neltner, Samivel, de Ségogne, Stoupy, Veyret.) Paris: Larousse, 1956. 476 pages; ills.; maps...

Trango Nameless Tower Spanish Attempts. Spaniards very nearly made ascents of the Nameless Tower but could not quite reach the summit. They fixed 750 meters of rope on the lower part of the Kurtyka-Loretan route for seven days. On July 7, José Cha...

CLIMBER UNTIES FROM TEAM - DISAPPEARS DURING SEVERE WEATHER, INEXPERIENCED CLIMBING PARTNERSWashington, Mount Rainier, Gibraltar LedgesOn the morning of July 1, Eric Lewis (57) went missing when his climbing companions discovered that he had uncli...

HILDA ERLANGERHilda Erlanger died on January 3, 1988. She was a member of the American Alpine Club for fifty years, having joined the club in 1938. She climbed extensively in the Alps and listed among her ascents the Jungfrau, Mönch, Finsteraarhom...

K2, west face. Applying the tactics they used successfully on the north face of Jannu in 2004 and the direct north face of Mt. Everest the same year, a Russian team made the first ascent of the west face of K2 (8,611m). After a siege of two and a ...

Pumori Pre-Monsoon Ascent and Attempt. An 11-member Italian expedition was led by Ruggero Zanaini. On April 14, Armando Antola, Franco Brunello and Antonello Martines reached the summit via the southeast face to the east ridge. Less successful wer...

Below Another Sky: A Mountain Adventure in Search of a Lost Father. Rick Ridgeway. New York: Owl Books, 2000. 306 pages, paperback. $15.00.The book begins in 1980, with the young Rick Ridgeway writing about his surviving an avalanche that killed a...

ANDREW MORRISON TAYLOR17 October 1875 — 13 May 1945“Well-known Alaskan ‘sourdough,’ big game hunter, guide and mountaineer.”His parents were born in Scotland (1839), and came to Canada about the time of the War between the States. He was the seven...

The Cordillera Blanca is the world’s highest tropical mountain range, with the greatest concentration of 6,000-meter peaks outside the Himalaya. It has attracted climbers and explorers from around the world since the early twentieth century. In 19...

Mount Munday, North Face. After a week climbing Waddington and satellite peaks with the Everett Mountaineers, Bob Kandiko and I felt the provocative 2300-foot north face of Mount Munday should wait no longer. On August 4, after a bivouac in Bravo ...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (6), Nez Perce—On August 18, Alex Shoumatoff (11) was a member of the Colorado Mountain Club’s 1959 summer outing in Grand Teton National Park. During a group climb on Nez Perce, at the base of the northwest coul...

El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that E.J. Luis Garcia Gallego and Alfonso Cerdán (Spain) established the route Murcia (VI 5.10 A4) on El Capitan over 44 days. Further details are lacking. (Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya)

FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTION, SELF-RESCUECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 18, according to his partner, Steve Keiser (19) was leading the second pitch of Sentinel Rock, 40 to 50 feet out on “easy” rock, when he fell about 7:30 a.m. Unconscious bri...

Cholatse, northeast face, second ascent with variant. At first believing they were opening a new route, Slovenians Tomaz Humar, Ales Kozelj, and Janko Opresnik climbed the steep and icy 1,300m northeast face of 6,440m Cholatse, more or less follow...

Alberta, Snow Dome. On July 15, Jack Fralick (35+) and Paul and Anne Stettner started to climb Snow Dome via the Athabaska Glacier. They had traversed two icefalls and were about 2 hours from the summit, at 1:30 p.m., when Fralick, in the lead, no...

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. SeymourMichael Rempel (21) was hiking with two companions on February 23, 1980, when he fell 300 meters down the gully between Mt. Seymour’s second and third peaks. At the top of th...

Aleta del Tiburon, Ascent. In November, 1996, Hugo Mieraga, Jaime Sapunar, Victor Munoz and Cristian Oyarzo, all from Puerto Natales, Chile, climbed Nuestro Primer Rayo (14 pitches, 5.9 A1) in three days. The team fixed ropes and bivied 30 minutes...

FALLING ICE-FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Johnson Canyon Upper FallsOn January 19, J. G. was standing at the base of an ice pillar when a climber above dislodged large pieces of ice. One of the pieces hit her and she fell...