Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol. The Austrian couple, Rudolf and Helga Lindner, climbed first above the Chi Ghari Glacier. On August 4 they climbed Rahozon Zom North (21,332 feet; peak 398 on the Wala map) and on the 6th Rahozon Zom Sou...
High Altitude Physiology and Medicine. Edited by Walter Brendel and Roman A. Zink. Springer Verlag, New York and Berlin, 1982. 316 pages. $65.High Altitude Physiology and Medicine is a collection of forty-nine papers presented at a symposium on hi...
Peaks in Marscarello Group, Southern Patagonian Icecap. In early 1971 we were in the practically unexplored region between Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino east of The Seno Moyano, hoping to climb Cerro Risopatrón on the western edge of the Southern...
Whitehorn lies about eight miles southwest of Robson and can be easily seen from the Mount Robson trail; with binoculars you can see the “white horn” on the summit formed by a large snow cornice. Until two weeks prior to our arrival, no route on t...
Chaukhamba I (7138m), attempts and tragedy. In May a 14-member team from Calcutta led by Brijes Dey attempted the north face of this high mountain, approaching from Badrinath and Mana. They found the huge face very avalanche prone, with many large...
Shivling. Our expedition was composed of Armando Della Valle, Mario Taller, Giordano Voltolini, Mauro Fioretta and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Topovan on October 9. After acclimatization climbs on lower slopes, we all started on October 1...
Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago Pingo. Fascinated by the view, I was determined to come back to this area. In December 1993, I returned with...
Eastpost Spire, South Face. Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic (Slovenia) climbed a new route, Mountain Fairy Tale (300 meters, 5.9 A3) on the south face of Eastpost Spire and dedicated it to the late Vanja Furlan.Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" East Tibet holds two principle mountain ranges, the Nyainqentangl...
Under the WeatherWhy is Scotland such a good training ground for much higher mountains? Perhaps because an average winter day in Scotland offers more adventure than a week of storms anywhere else.Simon RichardsonIt was past two in the afternoon, b...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. Our club had numerous outings throughout the year to Granite Mountain, Camelback Mountain, Pinnacle Peak, the McDowell Mountains and Little Granite Mountain. Our average climbing rating is 5.7, and the climbs are usual...
Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95.Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described tale of “Commitment on Steroids,” with selected insights into one of alpinisms m...
Solo Unsupported Continental Crossing. It was reported that Borge Ousland departed Antarctica’s Berkner Island in the Weddell Sea on November 15 and arrived at Ross Island’s New Zealand Scott Base in McMurdo Sound at 23:45 GMT, January 17, 1997, h...
AAC, Cascade Section. In 2003 the Cascade Section helped organize and sponsor two events in conjunction with a local web-based climbing group, cascadeclimbers.com. We also took part in a three-day mountaineering event hosted by REI in late Februar...
WANDA RUTKIEWICZ1943-1992The mountaineering world suffered in 1992 the loss of the greatest woman climber of all time. Wanda Rutkiewicz was last seen when she chose to bivouac alone several hours below the summit of K2 during the attempt to climb ...
On December 17, 2010, Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area of Lijiang county. The Yulong Xueshan massif has around 14 significant peaks over 5,000m, nearly all of which...
FALL ON ROCK—CHANGE OF PLANSWyoming, Devil’s Tower National MonumentOn August 21 at 1450, the Visitor Center received a report from Lucas Bannister that a climber was calling for help on the Southwest Buttress. I notified Ranger Fontaine to organi...
Climbing EthicsThis was written by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Tools, Inc. under the leadership of Sam Davidson. Many climbers contributed to its production.CLIMBING IN THE UNITED STATES is now a popular recreational activity. There are ...
Menamcho, attempt by northwest ridge; Kajaqiao, first ascent, via west face and northwest ridge. October 2005. Mick Fowler, Adam Thomas, Chris Watts, and I are stretched out on the dusty Tibetan tundra at the village of Tatse, not quite believing ...
Annapurna South Face, New Route. The members of the expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Zakopane, to the south face of Annapurna were Ryszard Szafirski, leader, Maciej Berbeka, Ryszard Gajewski, Zdislaw Kiszela, Maciej Pawlikowski, Boguslaw Probu...