Cerro Domo Blanco, Son of Jurel; Aguja Poincenot, Southern Cross; Cerro Piergiorgio, attempt. In January 2002 Jonathan Copp and I arrived in Chalten intending to climb a new route on the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio. We never succeeded in this g...

Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. This spring, 22 parties attempted to scale Everest from the north, 14 from the south and one from the east. A total of 117 people went to the summit of Everest from the three different sides: 48 from the north in Tibet ...

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Olympic National ParkOn June 7, 1987, Dennis Lund (37) was climbing in the base of the final 30-meter rock gully on the south buttress of The Brothers when this accident occurred. A member of this group (of The...

Mount McKinley from the North and WestBradford WashburnEVERY one of the five expeditions which have succeeded in climbing above 15,000 ft. on Mount McKinley has used almost exactly the same route for the ascent.The actual summit of the South Peak ...

Dave Anderson, Steve Herlighy, and Jamie Selda (USA) and Nacho Grez (Chile) spent 27 days in the Avellano Valley, 80 miles south of the town of Coyhaique. Their main objective was a striking unclimbed granite wall, the Avellano Tower. The expedi...

Mexico. It is encouraging to note the decrease in the number of fatal accidents on Mexican mountains in 1951 compared to 1950. Two fatalities as a result of a total of four accidents were reported to this committee by theChairman of the Safety Com...

STRANDED, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEADLAMP, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Yellow SpurAround 2:00 p.m. on the afternoon of March 9, I (Nandu Thibeault, 23) and my partner (19) started on Y...

Orvin Fjella Mountains: “Windmill Spire,” first ascent, by Frozen Tears; Unnamed Peak, first ascent, by Dragon Back Ridge. In November and December, Mike Libecki spent five weeks alone in a region of granite spires that forms part of the Orvin Fje...

EDWARD CUSHING1903-1956Edward Thomas Francis Cushing was born September 19, 1903, in New York City, his mother being German. He went through a public grade-school in New York and attended Horace Mann School for a short time, but this completed his...

British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Clemenceau Ice Field. On 2 August Roly Morrison (31), Bill Sharp (35), and Howie Ridge (27) set off from the base camp of the A.C.C. Climbing Camp to establish a High Camp in the Duplicate — Shackleton cwm for t...

During World War II an amazingly high percentage of the members of the American Alpine Club were actively engaged in the Armed Forces, while most of the other members shared wartime civil and administrative responsibilities connected with the nati...

EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alaska, Mount McKinleyLate on July 3, 1991, Polish climber Krzysztof Wiecha (28) began climbing alone to the summit of Mount McKinley from the 17,200 foot camp on the West Buttress route. As Wiecha approache...

Shisha Pangma—First American AscentGlenn PorzakFOR YEARS SHISHA PANGMA (Xixabangma)* was possibly the most remote of the world’s fourteen 8000-meter peaks. As the only 8000er located entirely within Tibet, it was the last of this select group of m...

Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine. Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson, Eric R. Simonson, as told to William E. Nothdurft. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 80 color photos. 208 pages. $29.95.It was on George Leigh-Mallory’s thi...

NangaParbat, RupalFace, Attempt on the 1970 Messner Route. Our climbers were Canadians Kevin Doyle, Ward Robinson and Barry Blanchard and I from the USA. My first impression of the face from Base Camp was of its similarity to the Eigerwand. Throug...

Falklatids War commemoration; South Georgia traverse with numerous ascents; Mt. Stanley, first ascent; quasi-crossings. In addition to the French expedition described below, the most notable climbing news was ascents of all four peaks that had bee...

Flight Over the Colorado RockiesCarl BlaurockTHE morning of October 11, 1940, broke bright and clear, the mountains clear cut and sharp with their white mantle of snow contrasting against the deep blue of the sky. This was the morning for which we...

Mount Baker, Variation to Roman Nose Route. On June 9, Mike Morrison, Tim Weyand and I climbed what may be little more than a variation to the Roman Nose route on Mount Baker. This route (a.k.a. the Roman Bridge) gains the Roman Nose above the mid...

Kongur Tiubie Attempt. Our twelve-person team followed the southwest route on our attempt on Kongur Tiubie, second highest mountain in the Pamirs. We set up Base Camp, Advance Base and Camps I, II and III at 4600, 5100, 5460, 5850 and 6320 meters ...

The Shishapangma Expedition. Doug Scott and Alex MacIntyre. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 332 pages, black and white photographs, maps, appendices, bibliography. $18.95.The late Alex MacIntyre and Doug Scott’s account of their expedition to cli...