Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Jammu, Ski Traverse of the Great Himalaya Range from Ladakh to Kashmir

Ski Traverse of the Great Himalaya Range from Ladakh to Kashmir. During March Jay Jensen, Gordon Wiltsie and I made a successful 75 kilometer ski trek from Panikhar in Ladakh to Kashmir. After a spectacular plane flight from Srinagar to Leh, a sti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Colorado Climbing Notes

Colorado Climbing Notes, 1936To supplement the record of previous climbing seasons before reporting new ones, note that in September 3rd, 1935, a first ascent of Spearhead (12,500 ft.), in Rocky Mountain National Park, was made by Charles Buckingh...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

K2 Attempt and Tragedy. Our joint expedition was led by Japanese Kenshiro Otaki with Pakistani Sher Khan as deputy. Other members were Japanese Takeo Ishiwatari, Akiro Suzuki, Kaoru Nagaota, Fumihide Saito, Tetuei Hanzawa, Akihiko Sugawara, Hirosh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face, Solo Winter Attempts

Lhotse South Face, Solo Winter Attempts. There were two separate unsuccessful attempts made by Frenchmen to climb the south face of Lhotse in winter. On November 29, Marc Batard reached 7000 meters before giving up. Accompanied by Catalán Enric Lu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Lower Index Town Wall

Lower Index Town Wall. On August 1 Steve Trafton and I climbed “Ore Tower” on the right side of the quarried area on the Lower Index Town Wall. The route begins on the left side of the tower and is of four leads of mixed free and aid climbing. NCC...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Marcus Baker

Marcus Baker. On April 28, Alpine Air flew Dolly LeFevre, Wayne Todd and me to 8,100 feet on the Knik Glacier, south of Marcus Baker (13,176 feet). That afternoon we skied four miles north to a camp at 10,500feet. The next morning we climbed to th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall to Ground on Rappel, Inadequate Belay, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite National Park, Puppy Dome

FALL TO GROUND ON RAPPEL, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite National Park, Puppy DomeOn July 24, 1992, Mike James (22) and his fellow counselor from a Seventh Day Adventist Camp (Camp Wawona) had set up a rappel on “Do or Fly,” an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above the Hispar Glacier

Peaks Above the Hispar Glacier. During August and September, Mike Searle, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Mark Crawford and I visited the Hispar Glacier to climb small peaks and study the geology of the area. Our approach was delayed by bad weather, whic...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4)—On August 23, 1956 Ken Weeks (18), David White (24), Curtis Butler (15) and Robert Haaheim (18) were returning from a completed ascent of Mt. Owen. They were glissading down a steep snow field when Weeks lost...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentanglha Range, Nyanchen Thanglha Southeast Summit, Probable First Ascent

Nyanchen Thanglha southeast summit, probable first ascent. From April 12 to June 1 I guided an international expedition to the Nyanchen Thanglha (also spelled Nyainqentanglha) range. Our idea was to acclimatize for 10 days before heading to Mt. Ev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Schwanda Peak and P 8130

Schwanda Peak and P 8130, Brooks Range. I led a trip up the Jago River and over a 7000-foot pass near the Continental Divide to the Hulahula River. On the way Vess Irvine, Ken Jonaitis, Rick Mohun and I climbed Schwanda Peak in a 17-hour day on Au...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse

Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse. During July, Joan and Carla Firey, Dave Knudson and 1 made an eleven-day high circuit of the Goodell Creek Drainage in the Pickets. We entered the group from the south following Ed Cooper’s approach to a camps...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland

Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland. The High Mountain Military Group Expedition was composed of Colonel Dr. J. Sarrat-Bournet, Major J.P. Peeters, Captain M. Rabet, Lieutenant A. Estève, Chief Adjutant A. Rey...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Sajama

Sajama. In May Jim Lilley, Ellen J. Harpham, Ann Hughes and I reached the summit of Sajama (21,424 feet) by the Japanese route on the north ridge.Jack Miller


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks in Noshaq Group and Kohe Zebak

Peaks in Noshaq Group and Kohe Zebak. Roger Everett, Lindsay Griffin, David Lund, Julia Yeomans and I spent 27 days in September and early October making alpine-type ascents in the Noshaq group and then on the south side of the Kalan wall of the K...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Mount Wood, North Face, Beartooth Mountains

Mount Wood, North Face, Beartooth Mountains. On August 31 Robert Miller and I climbed the north face of Mount Wood, second highest peak in Montana (12,661 feet). We reached the Stillwater Plateau from the Ben Bow Mine road, crossed five miles of b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North Attempt

Nilgiri North Attempt. Two Japanese, Kenzo Ichikawa and Nobuyaki Takeda, attempted 23,166-foot Nilgiri North by a new route, the southwest face, but were stopped on September 30 because of bad weather and because the route above 19,350 feet seemed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Blum, North Ridge

Mount Blum, North Ridge. This granitic ridge was climbed September 16 by Dave Hutchinson, Phil Leatherman, and Mark Weigelt. Crossing the glacier, they by-passed a moat by climbing a chockstone-filled gully. Several difficult pitches led to easier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Janapampa, Taulliraju Group

Janapampa, Taulliraju Group. Members of our group made two climbs which are probably first ascents. One, Janapampa (17,192 feet), the high point on the southeast end of the Taulliraju ridge, was a fairly difficult ice and rock climb. It was done o...


Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The principal activity of the P.A.T.C. during 1950 was the maintenance of trails, closed shelters and open lean-tos along sections of the Appalachian Trail in Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania. The broader interes...