North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep. On April 22 Mike Pennings and I finished our longterm project on the western edge of the North Chasm View Wall. The route tackles an obvious dihedral system located 200 yards up the narrow, choss-capped gull...
Mounts “Petrie,” “Plaskett,” and Walrus. From a base camp on the shore of Dimsdale Lake near Gray Pass in the northermost British Columbia Rockies, George and Marcia Wallerstein, Bob O’Dell, Tom Grenfell, Lyman Spitzer, and I made three first asce...
West Lone Pine Peak, Red Baron Tower. At the head of Tuttle Creek the western continuation of Lone Pine Peak curls in an extension of the high erosion surface to a really separate summit, which has been called “Peak 13,016,” but which could equall...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The major event of 1963 for the Harvard Mountaineering Club was the Mount McKinley Wickersham Wall Expedition. A party of seven succeeded in establishing a direct new route up the 14,000-foot North Face, as described i...
Changabang. Our group consisted of Elke Rudolf of West Germany, Brigitte Koch of Belgium, and Mark Moorhead, Rod Mackenzie, Jon Muir and me of Australia. At Lata we hired Dharam Singh, nine other porters and some 70 goats for the approach. We were...
Amne Machin. The Alpine Journal of November, 1961, carries an interesting article written by Pai Chin-Hsiao, leader of a Chinese expedition which claims the first ascent of Amne Machin. It will be recalled that this peak was reported to be very hi...
A Climber’s Guide to Oregon, by Nicholas A. Dodge. Portland, Oregon: Mazamas and Beattie & Co., 1968. 154 pages (plus eight pages of Introduction), eight photographs, 68 maps and sketches. Price: $3.95.In addition to furnishing interesting his...
Himalayan Quest, by Paul Bauer. Foreword by Sir Francis Young-husband. Translated from the German by E. G. Hall. Small 4to ; xxv and 150 pages, with 96 illustrations. London : Nicholson and Watson, 1938. Price 21s.One of my disappointments this pa...
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is one of the major glaciers of the west arm of Glacier Bay, southeast Alaska, and is surrounded by major summits of the Fairweather Range, from Mt. Quincy Adams in the north to Mt. Crillon in the south. Thanks to the loc...
Menhir, Baffin Island. In May, Egidio Bonapace, Maurizio Giarolli and I traveled up the fjord from Pangnirtung by ski-doo. High temperatures forced us to stop at Windy Lake because the river from that point onward was nearly completely melted. We ...
Alpine Club of Canada. In 1970 the A.C.C. had one of its most active years to date. The various activities included: the ski camp in Garibaldi Park, B.C.; the general mountaineering camp in the Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park; a Calgary Secti...
Mt. Temple north face, winter ascents of Greenwood-Locke and Robinson-Orvig a.k.a. Sphynx Face. “It is impossible to say how first the idea entered my brain; but, once conceived, it haunted me day and night.” – Edgar Allan Poe, The Tell-Tale Heart...
ALISON CHADWICK-ONYSZKIEWICZ1942-1978Alison was born in Birmingham but grew up and spent her formative years in Cornwall. She started to climb in 1960 while studying at the Slade School of Fine Arts in London when she joined a group of postgraduat...
Denali National Park and Preserve summary. Sadly, nine climbers died in the Alaska Range during 2011, making it the third deadliest year on record. The impact of these losses is not something that can be put into words. In addition 36 climbers wer...
The Fatality On KanchenjungaW. S. Ladd“ONE day towards the end of winter, there walked into my office a tall, clear-eyed, square-jawed, young man. He was from Virginia. He had lived in New York City for years, working in one of those great down-to...
Daxue Shan Range, Various Ascents. During the month of October, 1996, Fred Beckey led an expedition to the Daxue Shan range of central Sichuan Province in the People’s Republic of China. The marketing people at Ross Labs agreed to support the trip...
EDWARD LISLE STRUTT 1874-1948The unexpected death of Colonel E. L. Strutt at Edinburgh on 7 July 1948 deprives the American Alpine Club of a distinguished honorary member, who edited the Alpine Journal from 1927 to 1937, succeeding Captain Farrar,...
Calculated Risk, by Dougal Haston. London: Diadem Books, 1979. 190 pages, glossary. Price £4.95.Calculated Risk is the story of a Scottish climber, Jack McDonald who struggles continuously for understanding of himself, his friends, antagonists, an...
FALLING ROCK—FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Whitney-GilmanMay 18 was a gorgeous day when two former students of mine and I headed up on the Whitney-Gilman ridge about 10:00 a.m. after waiting for one party of three to advance the first t...
TURLOUGH O’BRIEN 1954-1979Only those are fit to live who do not fear to die; and none are fit to die who have shrunk from the joy of life. Both life and death are part of the same great adventure.Theodore Roosevelt Toby, are you there? Can you hea...