The TuskGary SpeerI WAS PSYCHED. The loose holds, a slippery wet gully, and rockfall had taken its toll. How did Paul lead this thing? It wasn’t very hard, maybe 5.7, but it was nasty—loose and wet. It was here that Paul took a twenty-foot leader ...
Ce Monde Qui N’Est Pas Le Nôtre, by Robert Tezénas du Montcel. Paris: Gallimard, 1965. 201 pages. Price: 10 F.This slim volume by the former president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne (G.H.M.) of which he has been a member since 1924, is most refre...
Mount Everest, Khumbu Himal, Rolwaling Himal I Khumbakarna Himal, Satellite Image Map (1:1,000,000), Jan Zurawski.K2 and the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram, Satellite Image Map (1:80,000), Grzegorz Glazek. Both by the Polish Mountaineering Assoc...
CARL A. BLAUROCK1894-1993I first met my long-time friend and climbing companion, Carl Blaurock, in 1920 on a scheduled trip of the Colorado Mountain Club to the Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristo Range. The mountain, according to local knowle...
Turret Mountain and Mount Geikie, The Ramparts. After encountering the typical Mount Robson weather in which Chris Jones and I were blown off the Kain Face and finally settled for the normal route, we joined George Lowe and Dean Hannibal for a wee...
California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak—At 9:00 a.m. on November 26, Richard Lee Hill (17) left his parents at Mahogany Flat Campground (elev. 8,000 feet) in the Panamint Mountains, to make a solo ascent of Telescope Peak (11,04...
A Game of PatienceThe Northeast Summit of the Rooster CombBERNARD AMY, Club Alpin Français Translated by H. Adams CarterBECAUSE one day follows another in the diary you write out yonder it would seem necessary to recount the arrival, Base Camp, th...
The Mountaineers. Participation in the outdoor program of The Mountaineers continued to increase during 1962. The Trail Trips Committee reported 10% higher activity than in any previous year, with 42 hikes scheduled from January through November. ...
Woke Up Punk. Zack Smith and I climbed a new 10-pitch route in the Black Canyon in the fall. Our route is located in the SOB Gully, in the area between Debutante’s Ball and Casual Route. The first three pitches were climbed by Scott Hollander and ...
In one week last January, the most beautiful spire in the world saw two historic ascents. It also experienced more controversy than it had since 1970. What happened?On January 16, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk made the long-awaited first “fair mea...
Kilimanjaro, Various Activity. In January, my wife Ann Robertson and I made three complete traverses of Kilimanjaro, taking in six trekking/approach routes and three summit routes on Kibo in the process. They included the Marangu, Machame, Mweka, ...
Chigmit Mountains, Reconnaissance. In late May 1983, Peter Reed and I travelled by float-plane to Lake Iliamna in search of good rock. We had heard from geologists that the nearby Chigmit Mountains possessed large quantities of granite which might...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On 3 September a party of four had completed the ascent of the Grand Teton under good weather conditions. As the party was descending by the Owen Route Mr. Newcomb saw that the party was beginning t...
PULMONARY EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED AND FALL ON SNOW,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 25, 1983, Mikio Yamakami (30), Nobuyoshi Chiba (27), Masato Watanabe (27), Yutaka Asakura and Yoko Shimizu were flown onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltn...
Puna de Atacama. The International Atacama Expedition was active in the southern part of the Puna de Atacam during the first quarter of 1965. The members were Mathias Rebitsch, Austrian; Benjamin Dixon, Sergio and Joan Domicelj, Argentines; and Ve...
FALL INTO CREVASSE (1) AND FALL ON ICE/WINDSLABBED SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DESCENDING UNROPED, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 15, a five member Spanish expedition, “Gambo De Palamos,” left their camp at 17,200 feet to atte...
Cordillera Raura. A British expedition from the University of London School of Economics, led by Peter C. Bebbington and composed of Edward Booth, Christopher Jones, Beverley Clark and Dr. Patrick Thomas, climbed principally in the Cordillera Raur...
American Women’s Expedition to Dhaulagiri I, Pear Route Attempt. After delays in Bangkok, where we had to transship our gear, our AAC- sponsored expedition left Pokhara in two groups on August 13 and 14, with a total of 270 local porters. It took ...
Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta, Attempt, and Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet, First Winter Ascents. Paul Ramsden, Jim Hall, Nick Lewis and Andy Kirkpatrick were in Argentine Patagonia from June 20-July 20, 1999. Setting off at 2 a.m. on July 1, we f...
Batura II. An expedition of the Himalayan Association of Japan was composed of ten members and was led by Mitsuaki Nishigori. Base Camp was set up on the Baltar Glacier at 13,800 feet on May 9, south of the peak. They first attempted the south spu...