Lone Mountain. On December 12, Jerry Kanzler, Ray Martin, Clare Pogreba, Peter Lev and I climbed the north face of Lone Mountain, a graceful peak near Bozeman, which stands aloof like an Oregon volcano. The main weakness in the 1100-foot face of s...
Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988. During the summers of 1985 through 1988, I and others have made several easy to moderate routes in the central Brooks Range. All routes were done in free time from work on a biological research project. The routes ...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, Aemmer CouloirOn July 31, a group of four climbers set off to climb the Aemmer Couloir variation of the East Ridge of Mount Temple in Banff National...
Nilgiri Central Attempt. A post-monsoon Japanese expedition was led by Tsutomu Nishimura. They reached only about 19,000 feet before giving up the attempt in late October.
Terrace Tower, The White Tower first free ascent, and Light in August. Yan Mongrain and I arrived in the Cirque of the Unclimbables on July 28. On August 10 we brought our gear to Terrace Tower, a squat, flat-topped spire near Bustle Tower, to jus...
Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face. A Base Camp north of Tenpeak Mountain, a granitic subrange southeast of Glacier Peak and the Honeycomb Glacier, is over 20 miles from the road when using the Suiattle River approach. Except for a few hours of brus...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. This year saw considerable activity in the club, both in rock climbing and mountaineering generally. Although official outings were limited in the spring, members individually spent much time at Devils Lake and other...
Climbs by Indian Expeditions. A 12-member team of the Mountain Lovers Association left Asansol, West Bengal for the virgin peak Srikanta (20,120 feet) in the Gangotri region. They trekked from Jhala via Harsil and established Base Camp at 14,500 f...
Masa Gang, 1985. More information has been received on the first ascent of Masa Gang or Masang Kang than was reported on page 211 of A.A.J., 1986. The Kyoto University Alpine Club was led by Ryohei Hori. The main group of the expedition left Thimp...
Ishinca, Urus Este. My wife Lena and I with the porter Marcelino Vargas spent two weeks based at 13,800 feet in the Quebrada Ishinca. On June 7 we climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) via the southwest ridge, finding a 100-foot difficult snow wall just b...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge, Ascent. Jae Soo Kim (expedition leader), Young Tae Kim (climbing leader), and expedition members Oun Bea Kim, Seong-Sang Kim, Min-Gi Jo, Yong Gun Kim, Il-Oong Jung, Dong-Ho Seo, Seong-Cheol Kim, Chi-Won Yun, Yeon-Ry...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The Club had a full program of meetings, lectures and trips during 1950. Rock climbers were very active: many of the chapters did more along this line than in the past. White-water canoeing was promoted with considerable...
Dir Gol Zom. An Italian expedition, led by Riccardo Varvelli and composed of Enrico Barbero, Guido Bertero, Filippo Corsini and Per Franco Giraudi, climbed above the south branch of the upper Tirich Glacier. On August 6 Barbero, Giraudi and Varvel...
Everest Attempt, Tragedy and Winter Ascent of Lhotse. Our joint Belgian-Polish expedition arrived in Nepal in October. We invited Polish climbers Andrzej Zawada, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy to accompany us as advisers. It took a couple of ...
FALL FROM TREE, BEARSWyoming, TetonsAt 0730 on August 14, 1985, Susan K. Walker (32) telephoned the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to register for a solo one-day climb of the East Ridge of Buck Mountain.According to a friend, Walker departed the Whiteg...
High Altitude Physiology. Edited by John B. West. Hutchinson Ross, Pennsylvania, 1982. 462 pages. $55.High Altitude Physiology. Coleridge wrote “the lessons of the past illuminate the future” and the more one studies, the more one comes to respect...
The weather in early 1971 was extremely bad in all the southern Andes with nearly constant storms from early December to mid-February. An expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche, Jorge Aikes, Hugo Bella and others attempted Fitz Roy, following f...
Mount Battle, Northwest Face. The Yorkshire Schools Exploring Society of England spent 14 days in Auyuittuq National Park. On August 23, eight of the 16 people climbed Mount Battle’s northwest face via a gully running directly to the col between t...
Andromeda, North Face to the West Summit. Bugs McKeith and I made this new* route on August 12. The route makes a fairly direct line up the rock and ice face. We crossed the bergschrund well to the right. A long traverse left under the first rock ...
Cerro Plata is the highest summit of the Cordon del Plata and for a long time was considered to be over 6,000m. It lies south of Vallecitos, but both normal routes are generally accessed from the Salto base camp. On September 25 Rodrigo Maique a...