Thalay Sagar, Attempts and Tragedy. From August to October, a Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Doke reached 6300 meters on the northeast ridge of Thalay Sagar (6904m). During the same time period, Hyung Jin Kim led a Korean expedition to the nor...
Acopán Tepui, north pillar, Dempster-Libecki variation. Mike Libecki and I left home in Salt Lake City on December 28 clad in shorts and flip-flops, with a foot of fresh snow on the ground. Three days later, after reciting the Rosary in Spanish, o...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CANInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
RICHARD N. MEYERMany will remember Richard Meyer’s story called "A Middle-Aged Mountain” that appeared in last year’s Journal. This was the mellow account of a climber who had also mellowed, ascending a peak—the Ankogel —that had seemingly lost it...
Saser Kangri II. The joint Indo-Japanese expedition, led by Major Hukam Singh and me, had 13 Indian and five Japanese members. After an approach from Pinchimik in the Nubra valley up the west side of the Saser group, on August 6 we established Bas...
1951-021959-0220032003USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock40534908813Snow2262339272Ice228133313River14300Unknown22801Ascent or DescentAscent26575337822Descent2112347405Unknown247802Other N.B.6000Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock28412634610Slip on snow or i...
EDWARD FEUZ, JR.1884-1981At the time of his death at age 96, this patriarch of alpine guides and our honorary member showed that the practice of alpinism, with its associated rigorous activity, was conducive to a long, healthy and productive life....
Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter Jones, and I established The Devil Rides Out (700m, 20 pitches, ED 5.10 A4). We climbed on 11 of our 13 days in the Bader Valley,...
FALL ON HARD SNOW–SLACK IN THE ROPEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 12 at 1545, four members of a seven-person Mountaineers group, Chris Clapton, Rebekah Koch, Theresa Fielding, and Tom Labrie, were descending the Emmons on one rop...
Tetons, 1953. The summer of 1953 saw a fever of climbing activity in the Grand Teton National Park unmatched by any previous year. Not only were the regular routes kept busy, but first ascents, new routes, and other unusual climbs were made by the...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–ICE AX ON PACK INSTEAD OF IN HANDS, DARKNESSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn March 31, a climber injured his leg after falling down Tuckerman Ravine. He was with two friends. The three of t...
Southwestern Mountaineers. Since the initial meeting of our climbing club was in October 1955, our lack of collective experience caused us to postpone any major climbs for that year. We have, however, established a short training course in the fun...
FALLING ROCK – FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Mount WhitneyOn October 3rd, two men were climbing the East Buttress route (5.7) on Mount Whitney. They were on a ledge at 13,500 feet when a large rock fell from abov...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth CenturyPart IIDr. B. L. Ball (1820-59), graduate of Harvard medical school in 1844, author of Rambles in Eastern Asia (1855) and Three Days on the White Mountains (1856),1 was the first Am...
Tamchok Kambab Kangri. While exploring the source of the Brahmaputra River for the National Geographic Society, I made a solo first ascent of the peak immediately above the two source glaciers about 60 miles southeast of Kailas. Tamchok Kambab mea...
Kara-su valley, Asan, Alperien Route, variant finish. Through friends in China who had contacts with local Kyrgyz, I acquired permission to visit an area in Uzbekistan. I got the idea from photos taken from a helicopter by an Austrian friend. Our ...
The Mountain World 1956/57. Edited for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research by Othmar Gurtner and Marcel Kurz; English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 200 pages; ills. Price $6.00.The current issue of T...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 11, 1992, Dave Fulton (31) and Robert Bums were descending from a carry to Windy Corner on the West Buttress back to their camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. They we...
South Face of St. EliasWalter R. Gove and Andrew PolitzGOVE BEGINS: There are mountains in the world, a few, which have a quality that sets them apart from all others. St. Elias is such a mountain. At 18,008 feet it stands isolated, facing the Gul...
Mt. Mustagh Ata, East Ridge. In 1994, Dan Waugh had seen and photographed the east ridge of Mustagh Ata (7546m) and suggested we might try to be the first to climb it. Through correspondence with Japanese Alpine Club members, including Masanori Su...