WANDA RUTKIEWICZ1943-1992The mountaineering world suffered in 1992 the loss of the greatest woman climber of all time. Wanda Rutkiewicz was last seen when she chose to bivouac alone several hours below the summit of K2 during the attempt to climb ...
On December 17, 2010, Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area of Lijiang county. The Yulong Xueshan massif has around 14 significant peaks over 5,000m, nearly all of which...
FALL ON ROCK—CHANGE OF PLANSWyoming, Devil’s Tower National MonumentOn August 21 at 1450, the Visitor Center received a report from Lucas Bannister that a climber was calling for help on the Southwest Buttress. I notified Ranger Fontaine to organi...
Climbing EthicsThis was written by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Tools, Inc. under the leadership of Sam Davidson. Many climbers contributed to its production.CLIMBING IN THE UNITED STATES is now a popular recreational activity. There are ...
Menamcho, attempt by northwest ridge; Kajaqiao, first ascent, via west face and northwest ridge. October 2005. Mick Fowler, Adam Thomas, Chris Watts, and I are stretched out on the dusty Tibetan tundra at the village of Tatse, not quite believing ...
Annapurna South Face, New Route. The members of the expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Zakopane, to the south face of Annapurna were Ryszard Szafirski, leader, Maciej Berbeka, Ryszard Gajewski, Zdislaw Kiszela, Maciej Pawlikowski, Boguslaw Probu...
Manamcho (6,264m), Peak 5,935m, first ascents. When I was climbing Kajaqiao in 2005, neighboring Manamcho looked so good that I had to go back to the Nyanchen Tanghla East. It’s not so much that the climbing is top quality, but that the overall mo...
International Mount McKinley Expedition. Our ascent of Mount McKinley, except for one variation, followed the West Buttress route pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1951. (A.A.J., 1952, 8:2). Our party, made up of Bob Elliott, Fergus O’Connor, Bruc...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Raindrops were falling at Kahiltna Basecamp the first week of May, as unusually and unpleasantly warm temperatures surprised early season climbers. Longtime mountaineers can’t recall a season so balmy, w...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 8 at 0745, Scott McLeod (23) and Dana Drummond (age unknown) were ascending the North Chimney (II AI 1 5.6) on the East Face of Longs Pe...
Shackletons Bjerg Area, Goodenoughs Land, Various Ascents. Attracted by the existence of many virgin peaks in an area reputed to have long periods of stable fine weather, I went for a fifth visit to Greenland, joining 13 others: Nigel Edwards, Nic...
New York, Shaivangunks. On the morning of June 6 Werner Bischof (40) and Peter Geisser (24), accompanied by Bob Croco and Don Wallace, set off to climb High Corner. Their plan was to break into ropes of two with Bischof and Geisser as the first pa...
Various ascents. In June I was a climbing instructor with a Slovenian army expedition of eight members. It was an interesting experience, despite unstable weather and challenging conditions. The North Couloir on Hunter’s Mini Moonflower, the upper...
Aguja III and Caraz I, Attempts. In mid-June, I hooked up with Stephen Koch in Huaraz for some fine climbing in the Paron Valley. We spent a day carrying loads up from the refugio, then got hopelessly cliffed out trying to descend directly to the ...
Sea-Going Climbers in Southern ChileJack MillerIN mid-November, 1974, the four of us, William Rodarmor, Peter Bruchhausen, myself, and our inflatable boat Huap Huap,* more affectionately known as Fat Martha, arrived at Otway Sound, 80 kilometers n...
Bugaboos, various ascents. In August we started up an aid route called Doubting the Millennium (600m, 11 pitches, 5.10 A3) on the Minaret. After four pitches we gained the main dihedral, but after half a pitch we got lured by a big hollow stalacti...
Mt. Tiedemann, Southwest Bartizans and various ascents. It took three trips, but in late July I finally scored on the weather in the Waddington Range. Guy Edwards and I drove to Bluff Lake, where we met Kevin McLane, Chris Atkinson, Matt Maddaloni...
JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROJECT, 1953The American Geographical Society administered another season of scientific study in 1953 on the Juneau Ice Field, southeastern Alaska, with contractual support given by the Office of Naval Research and the D...
Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar Direct. Mt. MacDonald (2,883m) is an unsung gem of Canadian alpine rock, with clean quartzite walls towering above the Trans-Canada highway in Glacier National Park. On July 8, Jeff Relph and I stood below its north fac...
The Editorial Board is extremely grateful to the many people who have done so much to make this section possible. Among those who have been very helpful, we should like to thank in particular Kamal K. Guha, Hari Dang, Harish Kapadia, Józef Nyka, J...