Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Lawa Brakk

Lawa Brakk. A British Metropolitan Police expedition was led by Gordon A. Briggs. On July 29, after a seven-day climb, Arthur Collins, Lew Hardy, Steven Sands, Philip Solt, Peter Stapely and Paul Vardon reached the summit of Lawa Brakk or Snow Lak...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above the Biafro Glacier

Peaks above the Biafo Glacier. After considerable trouble in getting to Skardu by air from Rawalpindi, we hired a jeep to take us and our gear to Dasso, the end of the road. We commenced the three-day walk to Askole, the last village. This section...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (3)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (3)—On August 19, 1956, after having completed an ascent of the Grand Teton, a Sierra Club party was descending over some rather rough terrain above the “Lower Saddle.” Dr. Jean E. Michels (35) came to a ledge wh...


Accident Reports ANAM
Acute Mountain Sickness, Fatigue, Dehydration, Alaska, Mount McKinley

ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn the evening of June 1, 1994, Bennett Austin (29) developed a severe case of acute mountain sickness while climbing between 19,000 and 19,400 feet on the West Rib route of Mount...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Nyainqentanglha Range, Sepu Kangri, First Ascent

Sepu Kangri, first ascent. A seven-member team of mountaineers from the U.S. made the first ascent of Sepu Kangri in the Nyainchentanglha Range (previously attempted by Christian Bonington and Charles Clarke—see AAJ 1998, 1999). Mark Newcomb and C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Peaks in the Endicott Mountains

Peaks in the Endicott Mountains, Brooks Range. In late July I spent a few days at the headwaters of the Iniakuk River, six to eight miles north-northeast of Ernie Lake. The approach was up and through a series of unique canyons with stair-stepped ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Staunings Alps

Staunings Alps, East Greenland. The Arctic Expedition of the German Institute for Foreign Exploration was led by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. As a preparation for the 1968 German North Pole Expedition, it had been hoped to send members both to the S...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Stranded, Alaska, Alaska Range, Coffee Glacier, Eyetooth

FALLING ROCK, STRANDEDAlaska, Alaska Range, Coffee Glacier, EyetoothOn June 15, JJ Brooks (33) was hit by fragments from a large falling rock that had separated from the main rock face. The falling rock had also cut his climbing rope, stranding hi...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering

High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering, by James Ramsey Ullman, 8 vo., 334 pp., illustrations and maps. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1941. Price $3.75.This is as good a popular history of mountaineering as any in the language. It is...


Notes AAJ
Indian Regulations Update

Indian Regulations Update. The UIAA was categorically assured by Mohamad Ashraf, Vice-President of the Indian Mountaineering Federation, at the Flagstaff, Arizona Council Meeting held the third week of May, 1996, that there is no policy to exclude...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Northern Pickets

Northern Pickets. A party of eight Mountaineers climbed in this area during mid-summer, hiking in by way of Hannegan Pass, Easy Ridge, and Perfect Pass to a base camp on Challenger Arm, the ridge running northeast from Mount Challenger. The first ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Hausinschriften im Schweizerland

Hausinschriften im Schweizerland, by Gilgian Maurer. 272 pages, with 350 illustrations, two in full color. Spiez: G. Maurer, 1951. Price, $4.20.In 1899 Walter Larden, a member of the Alpine Club, began to collect house inscriptions, chiefly of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Mount Torment, North Ridge

Mount Torment, North Ridge. Jim Pritchard and I made this fairly easy but very enjoyable alpine climb in mid-July, 1969. Camp was made in Boston Basin. To get to the north ridge we crossed over the south ridge and the west ridge of Torment. We the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Ellesmere-Bowman Island

Ellesmere-Bowman Island. Bowman Island, with its striking 1870- foot rock tower, lies in the middle of Makinson Inlet, a large fiord in the east coast of Ellesmere Island, roughly 800 miles from the North Pole. My previous expedition in August 197...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, Mt. Fairweather from the Sea

Mt. Fairweather From the Sea. Last April our team of five left Port Townsend, Washington on an odyssey to sail to and climb Mt. Fairweather (15,320') without any assistance. We all worked for the Pacific Crest Outward Bound School (which helped us...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Chile

Central Chile. The 1964 climbing season witnessed the conquest of most of the peaks over 13,000 feet that remained unclimbed, particularly in the Rancagua and Colchagua districts. The main expeditions in Central Chile were the following: by Club M...


In Memoriam AAJ
Kenneth Atwood Henderson, 1907-2001

Kenneth Atwood Henderson 1907-2001Mt. Rainier, Pinnacle Peak, Unicorn Peak, and Castle Rock in the Cascades. Yukness, Odaray, Huber, Victoria, Lefroy, Mumm, Whyte, Thompson, and The Mitre in the Canadian Rockies. In Chamonix: Aiguille de I’M by th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Sajama, Southwest Face

Sajama, Southwest Face. A Chilean expedition including N. Muñoz, R. Lamillay and C. Sepúlveda travelled from Arica, on the Pacific, to Sajama, Bolivia’s highest mountain. The group crossed the international frontier by the Tambo Quemado pass and a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), First and Second Ascents

Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of Dogonomba, which lies on the main ridge immediately south of Reddomain. Loehr had been guiding an American Alpine Inst...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Inglefield Mountains

Inglefield Mountains. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club, was the third in a series organized by one of us (Cochran) that has been aimed at exploratory mountaineering around Makinson Inlet in southeast Ellesmere Island. The first (Au...