Ascents in the Gangotri Region. Many expeditions are now repeating previously ascended climbs in the Gangotri region, particularly in Kedarnath Dome, Bhagirathi II and the Jogin peaks. Possibly the most important ascent for which we lack details i...
Mealy Range Ski Traverse, Southern Labrador. Dartmouth student Dean Engle (recipient of an American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship grant) organized our team of Dave McIndoe, Joe Catarini and me to conduct the first-known ski traverse of the Mealy...
CORNICE COLLAPSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BelangerOn December 11, 1988, Heidi Schaefer (24) and Ken Wallator (21) were climbing Mount Belanger, a 3060 meter peak south of Jasper. About 1300, they had just got off the face, finishing the tech...
RICH DAVIDSON1950-1996Rich Davidson, 46, of Los Alamos, New Mexico, and his tent mate Debbie Marshall, 31, of Glenwood Springs, Colorado, died while climbing Annapurna IV in Nepal on October 4. The two suffocated in their sleep at 18,000 feet when...
Matho Kangri, Stok Area, Ladakh. On July 23 Claude Buhler, Jacques Prillieux, liaison officer C.R. Thakur and I made the first ascent of Matho Kangri (6030 meters, 19,784 feet). We left from Matho village with three donkeys and that same day reach...
Devils Tower. A small party of climbers, some of them members of this club, were prevented from making an attempt on this summit by the National Park Service which administers this odd monolith as a national monument. While we can fully sympathize...
These towers, insignificant from Mendenhall valley and small in comparison to many Alaskan peaks, must be seen from close at hand to be properly appreciated. Not “giant”, but “big” (2000-foot) walls abound here; seven towers with buttresses, rid...
Mount Index, South-North Traverse of the Three Peaks. The traverse of the three peaks of Index was a project that had for some time interested me. This traverse had been done only once before, when in 1951 it had been made from north to south. In ...
Kangchenjunga, First Female Ascent. My husband, Gary Pfisterer, and I led an international expedition to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in the spring. We were a small team of three Americans (Gary, Chris Shaw, Tim Horvath), one Cana...
FALL ON ROCK – HANDHOLD CAME LOOSEAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount YamnuskaOn May 23, a climber had a leader fall approximately 140 metres up the route Bottleneck (5.8, seven pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. The leader sustained a broken ankle. The p...
K2 Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and I arrived at the traditional K2 Base Camp at 5000 meters on June 16. Erhard Loretan had had to drop out of the team when in February he was swept down by an avalanche on the Mönch and suffered serious back injur...
Fatal Accident on Mount Howson. Major R. C. Gibson, M.C., President of the Alpine Club of Canada, died on August 20 after a fall on Mount Howson, highest peak of the Howson Range, in western British Columbia. In the death of Rex the mountains clai...
Lhotse. A two-man Korean expedition completed the 20th ascent of Lhotse. Leader Heo Young-Ho reached the summit via the west face on October 14.Elizabeth Hawley
Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. Maurice Dupont-Roc and his wife Andrée, Mme Martine Salembier, Mlle Martine Regnault, Charles Russignaga, Noël Humbert, Bernard Constantin, Patrice Bruner, the Swiss Hans Peter Duttle and I as leader spent 25 d...
In 2007, on a visit with Markus Haid, I managed the first one-day ascent of Arctandria on the north face of Blamannen. I was so impressed that I decided to return in July with Much Mayr. During the first trip my eyes continually strayed left acros...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCE Washington, North Cascades National ParkOn August 11, 1988, Katrina Kretsinger (22) fractured her pelvis in a fall on Bear Mountain. She describes the accident on an AAC Accident Report Form.We wer...
The Fin, North Face. Dallas Kloke and I climbed this face (Kan- geroo Ridge) on June 23. NCCS II, F7.Bryce Simon, unaffiliated
Mount Neacola, North Face Attempt. On May 1 Kennan Harvey and I flew from Kenai to Lake Clark National Park with six weeks of supplies. On May 10 we did the first ascent of Mount Anklyosaur and skied a 1,500-foot couloir off its shoulder. Then we ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO SPOTTER California, Yosemite Valley, Swan SlabOn July 23, 1992, Michael Poulin fell about eight feet to the ground while bouldering in the Swan Slab area. He sustained a severely angulated right ankle fracture. (Source: C. Jacobi,...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEColorado, Clear Creek CanyonAndy (28) and his partner Tamie (28) were climbing at Canal Zone during the evening of June 21. Andy had clipped the last bolt on Holiday Road (5.8) and was climbing to anchors on a ...