Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents. A group of eight Britons led by Brian Needham was flown into the eastern part of the Rignys Bjerg ranges in June. They experienced excellent stable weather and were able to explore new mountain groups, maki...
Paul Roderick of TAT landed Maxime Turgeon, Freddie Wilkinson, and I on the eastern edge of the upper Yentna Glacier, right at the edge of the wilderness boundary and about four miles from where we made our base camp. In this same area the previou...
Makalu Winter Attempt. Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander tried to make the first winter ascent of the world’s fifth highest mountain but failed. They made three attempts on the northwest ridge, the Kukuczka route, reaching 7500 meters on the ...
Argentine Patagonia, Attempts and Ascents. My objective was to attempt the unclimbed west face of Torre Egger with two French climbers, David Autheman and Antoine Noury, and a Norwegian climber, Trym Saeland. When Trym and I arrived at Base Camp, ...
Cuerno Blanco, South Face. In December 2007 Valentino Rota, David Valdez, and I climbed a new route on the south face of Cuerno Blanco (5,050m). It is a beautiful, rarely climbed mountain in Chile's Yeso Valley, east of Santiago. On December 20 we...
Diran Ascent, Nanga Parbat Attempt and Other Peaks near the Karakoram Highway. We left Britain on June 18, hoping to climb rock pinnacles in Hunza, the Rakaposhi north face and Nanga Parbat from the south. We failed on all of these but did climb D...
Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents. On April 30, Rodden Mcgowan and I flew to the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Our original plan was to try an alpine-style ascent of the north ridge of Kennedy, but we were unable to land on the Lowell Glacier...
Everest Attempt via the Great Couloir. Our expedition was composed of Jack Allsup, leader, Ann Smith, Bob East, Bob Allison, George Dunn, Greg Wilson, Craig Van Hoy, Ed Viesturs, Bonnie Nobori, Dr. John Baumeister, Travis Cannon and me as climbing...
Lobuje East, East Face Couloir, Ascent and Observations. Andy Gresh and Steve Su climbed Lobuje East via the East Face Couloir in October. Though the route is praised in Trekking Peaks of Nepal as a good couloir route, Gresh and Su found it to be ...
Shivling. A three-man Norwegian expedition was led by Ole Haltvik. On September 12, the leader and Jore Keokk completed the ascent by the west ridge.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Sherpi Kangri Attempt. The Kobe University Expedition was composed of Toshiho Tanaka, leader, Takuo Kawamoto, Yoshikazu Hatta, Hiroshi Nishiuchi, Yukihisa Yamaguchi, Toshinao Sakai, Dr. Noboru Funatsu and me as deputy leader. We left Khaplu on Jul...
Our group, Dick Irvin, leader, Bill Isherwood, Barry Nash, Carl Smith and I, repeated the route pioneered by the Harvard Mountaineering Club in 1946 with the exception that we were flown in and out of Base Camp on the Tyndall Glacier instead of hi...
FALL ON WET ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION,NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RuperOn May 27, the victim (29) was leading Ruper when he fell. In his own words: “Water was seeping over the saddle, covering most of the last pitch. ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Athabasca, North FacePeter Haase (18) and John Leedale (22) were climbing the north face of Mt. Athabasca about 1100 hours on 30 June 1979. Leedale, who was leading, removed his cra...
Huacshash, Pariauccro Chico and Other Peaks, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash, 1979. Our expedition from Friuli was composed of Rodolfo Sinuello, Giuseppe Bertolo, Ivano Baracchini, Alfonso Masotti, Andrea Camerotto, Rolando Zaghis and me. Our object...
Scott Island, Ascent and Attempts. Three of us arrived in Clyde River on a Monday afternoon and waited two days for one member (the first to leave) to feel up to the trek. We left Clyde with two snowmobiles and komatiks. About ten hours later, we ...
Mount Robson. An ascent of Mount Robson by the Kain route was made on April 23 by J. Vin Hoeman, Dave P. Johnston, and Pete H. Robinson from Colorado State University. An intermediate camp was placed on the Dome, from which the summit was reached ...
Mt. Hooker, Loaded for Bear. I wasn’t sure if I’d get my Czech friend Jakub Gajda to accompany me on another climbing trip, and I wasn’t sure that I was ready for another adventure. But by June I was excited for another trip. It had to be short an...
Peaks above Sem Kharak Glacier. A team from the Mountaineers Club, Calcutta, began trekking from Malari on June 4 and established Base Camp at Sem Kharak on June 7. They stayed in the mountains for 14 days. Camp I (17,000 feet) was established on ...
Nevado Palomares and Marmolejo Norte. The first ascent of Nevado Palomares (19,423 feet) was made by a joint expedition of Brazilians of the Club Alpinista Carioca and Argentines of the Club Andinista Mendoza on February 25. (No names are availabl...