Mount Foster, First Ascent. In January, Bruce Dowrick, Dan Mannix, Roger Thompson and Greg Langreth made the first ascent of Mount Foster on Smith Island in the Shetland Islands of the Antarctic Peninsula. A full account of their ascent and the in...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Louise FallsOn February 14, T.T. was leading the final crux pitch of this popular Grade 4+ ice climb. He placed two or three ice screws above the belay on the steepest part of the pil...

Jack Lewis and I climbed the west ridge of the Broken Tooth, gaining the ridge from the southwest and making the third ascent of the peak. Our route is probably the easiest of the three routes that have been done. The major problem was the weat...

Annapurna, Winter Attempt. The Japanese climber, Naoe Shaka- shita, made a reconnaissance for his planned winter ascent of Annapurna in October 1980 but he fell into a crevasse, breaking his thumb, and could not return until late January, rather t...

Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and “Sabine.” Gaping crevasses made it impossible to land near our chosen objective. A snap, mid-air decision left us at the base of an ideal consolation prize, the unclimbed east-southeast ridge of Fairweat...

Lingti and Shilla Valleys, Spiti. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Mountaineers of Bombay, Zerksis Boga, Arun Samant, Muslim Contractor, Bhupesh Ashar, Shekhar Jaywant, Gaurang Bhatia and I explored the unvisited Lingti valley and Shilla ...

Ski Traverse of the Great Himalaya Range from Ladakh to Kashmir. During March Jay Jensen, Gordon Wiltsie and I made a successful 75 kilometer ski trek from Panikhar in Ladakh to Kashmir. After a spectacular plane flight from Srinagar to Leh, a sti...

Colorado Climbing Notes, 1936To supplement the record of previous climbing seasons before reporting new ones, note that in September 3rd, 1935, a first ascent of Spearhead (12,500 ft.), in Rocky Mountain National Park, was made by Charles Buckingh...

K2 Attempt and Tragedy. Our joint expedition was led by Japanese Kenshiro Otaki with Pakistani Sher Khan as deputy. Other members were Japanese Takeo Ishiwatari, Akiro Suzuki, Kaoru Nagaota, Fumihide Saito, Tetuei Hanzawa, Akihiko Sugawara, Hirosh...

Lhotse South Face, Solo Winter Attempts. There were two separate unsuccessful attempts made by Frenchmen to climb the south face of Lhotse in winter. On November 29, Marc Batard reached 7000 meters before giving up. Accompanied by Catalán Enric Lu...

Lower Index Town Wall. On August 1 Steve Trafton and I climbed “Ore Tower” on the right side of the quarried area on the Lower Index Town Wall. The route begins on the left side of the tower and is of four leads of mixed free and aid climbing. NCC...

Marcus Baker. On April 28, Alpine Air flew Dolly LeFevre, Wayne Todd and me to 8,100 feet on the Knik Glacier, south of Marcus Baker (13,176 feet). That afternoon we skied four miles north to a camp at 10,500feet. The next morning we climbed to th...

FALL TO GROUND ON RAPPEL, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite National Park, Puppy DomeOn July 24, 1992, Mike James (22) and his fellow counselor from a Seventh Day Adventist Camp (Camp Wawona) had set up a rappel on “Do or Fly,” an...

Peaks Above the Hispar Glacier. During August and September, Mike Searle, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Mark Crawford and I visited the Hispar Glacier to climb small peaks and study the geology of the area. Our approach was delayed by bad weather, whic...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4)—On August 23, 1956 Ken Weeks (18), David White (24), Curtis Butler (15) and Robert Haaheim (18) were returning from a completed ascent of Mt. Owen. They were glissading down a steep snow field when Weeks lost...

Nyanchen Thanglha southeast summit, probable first ascent. From April 12 to June 1 I guided an international expedition to the Nyanchen Thanglha (also spelled Nyainqentanglha) range. Our idea was to acclimatize for 10 days before heading to Mt. Ev...

Schwanda Peak and P 8130, Brooks Range. I led a trip up the Jago River and over a 7000-foot pass near the Continental Divide to the Hulahula River. On the way Vess Irvine, Ken Jonaitis, Rick Mohun and I climbed Schwanda Peak in a 17-hour day on Au...

Picket Range, Carpetbaggers Traverse. During July, Joan and Carla Firey, Dave Knudson and 1 made an eleven-day high circuit of the Goodell Creek Drainage in the Pickets. We entered the group from the south following Ed Cooper’s approach to a camps...

Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland. The High Mountain Military Group Expedition was composed of Colonel Dr. J. Sarrat-Bournet, Major J.P. Peeters, Captain M. Rabet, Lieutenant A. Estève, Chief Adjutant A. Rey...

Sajama. In May Jim Lilley, Ellen J. Harpham, Ann Hughes and I reached the summit of Sajama (21,424 feet) by the Japanese route on the north ridge.Jack Miller