VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURES, AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION (INCLUDING NO HELMET)New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 18 incidents reported from this popular climbing area this year. Of the twelve falls, six were the res...
Queenstown region, summary. Winter saw the development of Cigar Creek in the Eyre Mountains as an ice climbing venue. A few new routes were established. Johnny Davison and Rupert Gardiner made first ascents of Kapa O Panga (WI 5) and the Cold Ligh...
Mount Forel. An expedition from the Omon Alpine Club of Nippon University was under the leadership of Gi Miyahara. This was the first Japanese expedition to Greenland. They left Japan on June 28 for Angmagsalik via Moscow and Iceland. They were ac...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (1). The leader of the British Joint Service Expedition and one other had advanced ahead of the main group to work out the route to higher camp sites on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. At about 15,000 feet, they were caught...
Cordillera Vilcanota. Sue Tatum and I walked in a day and a half from Aguas Calientes to the head of the Quebrada Palca in the Nudo de Vilcanota, passing several small mines and arriving at Quilcaqocha. (See Hoja Macari, survey 1938, and Hoja Sicu...
Nanda Devi East Attempt. Our expedition was composed of two women, Taeko Noda and Mitsuko Araki, and six men, Toyomichi Atsuji, Akiyoshi Saito, Minoru Tsumori, Kiyoshi Sakamaki, Nenichi Itakura and me as leader. Owing to the nuclear battery, alleg...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Central. The south buttress of Moran, which has already in the past 15 years provided three excellent and difficult routes, has yielded yet another. On July 16, Peter Koedt and Keith Becker climbed a distinct and specta...
Goat Perch, Great Gully. On June 4 Dusty Perkins and I made an ascent of the Great Gully (IV 5.8 M3) on the Goat Perch in the Sawtooth Mountains. This line may have been climbed in the past, but no record we know of exists. We searched past issues...
Noshaq. Our first objective, Urgend, was not allowed us, since the Wakhan Corridor was closed to expeditions from Western countries. On August 9 Pedro Aymerich, Conrad Blanc and José Iglesias reached the summit of Noshaq and on the 11th I climbed ...
Passu Peak. A Japanese-Pakistani Armed Forces expedition made the first ascent of Passu Peak (23,810 feet) on July 3. The Pakistani leader was Major Manzoor Hussein and the Japanese leader was Lieutenant Isao Fukura. The promised report has not ye...
Thompson Peak, Northeast Face, Sawtooths. On September 3, 1968 John Kahm and I climbed a new route on Thompson’s northeast face. The face is split by a large couloir. After ascending the short snowfield below, we began the climb on the right side ...
P 7317 and P 6188, Thompson Ridge Area, Chugach Mountains. A joint trip by Bob Jacobs of the St. Elias Alpine Guides and Matt Culberson of the American Alpine Institute made two first ascents in June. The group of ten made Base Camp on the south s...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITY Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount RundleOn July 29, a solo climber was ascending the normal scramble/hiking route on Mount Rundle. He scrambled up a gully above trail into the steep technical rock slabs and could no l...
Nilgiri Central. Our Matsuyama University Expedition was composed of Keizo Shigematsu, Jun’ichi Yuyama, Kohichi Sakata, Toshiro Hamada, Yasuo Tsuda, Dr. Toru Itano and me as leader. We flew by helicopter from Chhoya in the Kali Gandaki valley to B...
Bustle Tower, Lotus Flower Tower, Parrot Beak Peak, Proboscis. In the Cirque of the Unclimbables Jonathan Copp made a series of impressive ascents with various partners. With Brooke Andrews he established the Don’t Get Piggy (V 5.12a) variation to...
Helena Peak, The Checkered Demon. This route begins approximately 200 yards right of the Beckey, Nephew, and Wagner route (A.A.J., 1971) and joins it on the last lead. The first attempt was made by Jerry Kilner and Dave Davis in the summer of 1970...
Stanford Alpine Club. During 1965 the Stanford Alpine Club sponsored its usual weekly practice climbs to local rocks. Safety was emphasized in all climbing activities. Dynamic belay practices were held, and club members received special instructio...
Mount Everest. The 1966 Chinese attempt on Everest through the north face failed, although it was made in May when all successful climbs have been made. The 26-member team was given French high-altitude clothing, but this was not adequate. They we...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Albert Fellinger, Dr. Wolfgang Trost, Gerhard Berger, Toni Ponholzer, Helmut Ortner, Sebastian Ruckensteiner and me as leader. We left Bumtang on July 28 and took ten days, two of them inactively,...
Ishinca and San Juan. My wife Ruth, sons Frederick and John, and I with the Peruvian porter Humberto Henostroza climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) on July 15 and Urus (18,028 feet) on July 16. Then from the Quebrada Shallap we ascended Huamashraju (17,...