Monashee and Selkirk Mountains. A six-man field party of the Geological Survey of Canada under my leadership was active in the Monashee and northern Selkirk mountains. Geological mapping on a scale of 1” to 4 miles was completed in the Big Bend ar...
Squaretop, East Face, The Miscreant Line and The Conveyor Belt. Two routes were established in August 2000 by Tod Anderson, Skyler Crane, James Donnell, and Ernest Moskovics on the left side of the east face of Squaretop. The lines, climbed by dif...
Peak above Chaturangi Glacier. Ten climbers, three scientists (including Geologist Dr. Dhruvajoyti Mukherjee and Physiologist Dr. Amitava Sen) and six Sherpas from the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, Calcutta, left on August 31 to try Sato...
Nevado de Chañi. An expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made a new route on the Nevado de Chañi (19,882 feet) in northern Argentina. Cesarino Fava, Augusto Mengelle and Felipe Frasson climbed the central spur of the north face in early Oc...
Lhotse Shar. The east peak of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) was climbed by an Austrian expedition from the Tirol led by Siegfried Aeberli. Base Camp was at 17,150 feet on the western lateral moraine of the Lhotse Glacier. They approached the s...
Chumik Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Atsuo Tokushima attempted Chumik (22,160 feet) from the Chumik Glacier, hoping to reach a col on the northeast ridge. After establishing Camp II at 18,375 feet, they abandoned the attempt on July 28 bec...
Kangchenjunga, North Face. Kangchenjunga, located in remote eastern Nepal, lies on the border with India’s autonomous state of Sikkim and is the world’s third highest peak at 8586 meters, after Everest and K2. On Kangchenjunga, six expeditions, re...
Dernières Victoires du Cervin, by Giuseppe Mazotti. Translated into French by Commandant Émile Gaillard. 8 vo., pp. 202, with 32 illustrations from photographs. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.A mountaineering friend once remarked to me tha...
Snowdome, Northeast Buttress. On August 18 and 19 Don Vockeroth and I made the first ascent of this buttress, which is the one visible from the highway looking up Dome Glacier. The climb on mostly rotten rock required one and a half days. In addit...
Zion National Park. The classic route, Space Shot, had its first solo ascent in October by Rich Strang, an inspired performance especially in light of its being his first desert wall! Some climbers fail to note the critical importance of hammerles...
Mount Thor, South Face. An interesting new route on the south face, to the east of existing routes, was done May 7 by William L. Putnam, Tom Cosgrove, and me. The route climbs a series of jam-cracks, with one aid pitch, on the left side of a promi...
FALL ON SNOW, BELAY FAILURE, NO HARD HATSOregon, Mount HoodAt 0230 on June 14, 1983, a group of climbers left their base camp at 2590 meters on the Eliot Glacier and began their ascent of Mount Hood via the Eliot Glacier Headwall. The party consis...
Kongur-tebe-tagh, Pamirs. The second ascent of this 24,920-foot peak, which lies in the eastern Pamirs in Sinkiang, was made by a group of Chinese and Tibetan women. On June 13 the Tibetans Sheirab and Phundob reached the summit, which had first b...
Killabuk, Solo, Weasel Valley, Baffin Island. Italian climber Franco Perlotto made a solo ascent of the east face of Killabuk, a route first climbed by Doug Scott, Dennis Hennek and three others in 1971. The peak lies near the head of the Weasel V...
California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak. On 21 December, Richard Slates (34), a member of a search party for the body of Grant Trigg arrived by one-passenger helicopter on a ridge of Telescope Peak and elected to deviate from th...
Lupghar Sar West. Our Tegernsee expedition was made up of Markus Fisser, Sepp Gloggner, Walter Janner, Alfred Müller, Sepp Öckler, Otto Parzhuber, Georg Wagner and me as leader. After an overland drive from Germany for six of the eight of us to Gi...
Mount Stephen Leacock, St. Elias Mountains. Martyn Williams, Jim Boyde and I devoted the Easter weekend from April 9 to 15 to the ascent of Mount Stephen Leacock (60° 38' N, 138° 43' W; 10,200 feet). Named after the renowned Canadian author, humor...
Chamonix. In connection with the celebrations attending the visit of British royalty to France, M. Paul Payot, at the Ruskin Stone, read a paper on “The Englishman at Chamonix,” and exhibited in the window of the Pâtisserie des Alpes various appro...
FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Uto PeakAt 1700 on July 28, 1987, a party of six cadcts (ages 15-17) and two guides were descending the northwest ridge of Uto Peak. The area is used regularly by cadets for t...
Canadian Rockies: Swiss Guides’ Tariff for Climbing.Mt. Victoria2 days$40.00Mt. Lefroy2 days40.00Mt. Hungabee14 hrs.40.00Cathedral Mountain12 hrs.30.00Mt. Biddle13 hrs.30.00Mt. Aberdeen13 hrs.30.00Mitre Peak9 hrs.30.00Mt. Temple9 hrs.20.00Mt. Hube...