K 12. The Kyoto University Karakoram Expedition to K 12 was composed of Seiichi Kanayama, Shinichi Takagi, Tsutomu Ito, Satoshi Oku, Pakistani Second Lieutenant Zaffar Iqbal as liaison officer and me as leader. On July 25 we set up Base Camp at 15...
Cholatse. Our members were Americans Nick Beatty, Chris Breemer, Rob Cassady, Glenn Dunmire, Ed Webster and I, Canadian Andrew Brash and Argentine Tom Heinrich. We established Base Camp below the west side of the peak on October 4. Dunmire and Web...
Czerski Range, 1988. A Czechoslovak expedition climbed in the Czerski Range in eastern Siberia in 1988. (The range was named for a Pole, hence the spelling.) It lies in a remote area with a harsh climate and many unclimbed peaks. The highest, Pobe...
Mount St. Elias, Northwest Buttress. A Japanese expedition was led by Takeshi Okada and composed of Hiraoki Matsui, Yukuo Uozumi, Nobushige Sakazaki, Minoru Oshima, Kunihiko Kamata, Kiyoshi Abe and Suichi Narita. They landed at 6250 feet on the Co...
Glacier Peak, North Face. Map and aerial-photo studies showed this north face to be a massive granite wall of almost 3000 feet with a great couloir splitting into its heart. The unfortunate name "Glacier Peak” at first made Dave Beckstead and me w...
FREDERICK C. WING1915-1991Fred Wing was bom in Brooklyn and reared in Montclair, New Jersey. He graduated from Oberlin College and Harvard Law School. A life-long distance runner, he was captain of his high school and college track and cross-count...
Cerro Marconi. This peak (7400 feet) is located some seven miles northwest of FitzRoy on the eastern edge of the Patagonian Continental Icecap at the latitude of Lake Viedma. It was attempted in 1965 by a CABA expedition, which chose a poor route ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, KloofOn May 22, the victim (29) was leading a climb on the route called Kloof on the west ridge. He was about 30 feet off the ground when he was unable to complete a move. H...
Fanskiye Gory, Tadzhikistan, 1992. On June 16, 1992, Rick and Alison Allen, Sharu Prabhu and our Russian hosts, Sergei Yefimov and Valeri Pershin, drove all day by truck and jeep, along good roads, and finally a rough track, into the Fanski Mounta...
Foraker and Crosson, Ski Descents, 1981. On May 22, 1981 we landed on the Kahiltna Glacier. The team was Pierre Beghin, James Merel, Jean-Luc Ruby and I. We left for Base Camp four hours later. After three days of looking for a suitable route on t...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. CoryR. Taino (21) and J. Herrero (19) were descending Mt. Cory by an easy route on 27 May 1979 and reached an 80-foot rappel. Herrero did not want to rappel with his pack, so he threw it down the gully. A ...
Cashmere Crags, The Blockhouse and The Rhombic. From a high camp on Mole Ridge near The Hook, on September 1 A1 Errington and I climbed a new route up The Blockhouse via its north ridge. The route began at the start of the standard northwest face ...
Kokodag (a.k.a. Kokodak) is the summit on the ridge extending west from Kon-gur and is located between Kongur Tube (7,530m on Chinese maps, 7,546m on Russian) and Aklangam (6,978m on Chinese maps, 7,004m on Russian). Chinese maps show its altitude...
Bill Williams Mountain, Bill Williams Monument. This remnant of a volcanic dike is just visible above the right shoulder of Bill Williams Mountain when viewed from Interstate 40 between Ash Fork and Williams. The summit was first reached by Mark P...
New York Section. In February 2008 we launched an important new, Web-enhanced initiative. In conjunction with our partners, the Rubin Museum and our local PBS TV station, we videotaped and broadcast a symposium on contemporary climbing on Everest....
Appalachian Mountain Club. Growth in all of the work of the A.M.C. has been stressed in past reports. 1964 was no exception: membership reached 9,500; two new first editions were published in one year — Alpine Flowers of New England and the A.M.C....
Symmetry Crag #1, Southeast Ridge. Fred Beckey and John Hudson climbed this new route from Cascade Canyon on September 4. The entire south face of this crag is divided horizontally by two prominent tree ledges. To reach the first, easy but steep r...
Rasac, West Face, Middle Buttress. The Frenchman Antoine Baroud and Hubert Odier and I climbed the west face of Rasac from July 17 to 19. We placed a high camp in the col between Rasac Oeste and Tsacra Chico. There are three buttresses on the face...
Ship’s Prow, Solo Ascent. From April 23-June 3, Mike Libecki made the first ascent of the north face of the overhanging Ship’s Prow via The Hinayana (VI 5.8 A3+, 600m). An account of his solitary adventure can be found earlier in this journal.
Sarapo, Southwest Face. In Cajatambo an Italian expedition, led by Casimiro Ferrari, met a Swiss one returning from having unsuccessfully tried the southwest face of Sarapo. In two days, on August 4, the Italians were in Base Camp. After several d...