Stuart Range. In February, Kit Lewis and Jim Nelson made the first winter ascent of their Girth Pillar route. Certainly the hardest winter climb done in the range, the pair climbed for four days through atrocious conditions. In July, Peter Croft c...
Lone Pine Peak, Pathways Through to Space. V 5.10 Al. First ascent August 1, by Stephen Quale and Scotty Nelson. This route starts about 100' left of the huge inside corner on the south face. Climb a right-facing corner (marked by a prominent roof...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlaska, The Rooster CombEric Winkleman (25) and Alex Lowe (23) were flown into the East Fork of the Ruth Glacier with the Alice and the Agressors team on April 26, 1982.On May 5, early in the morning, W...
Cumberland Peninsula, Ski Mountaineering Expedition. The objective of our Baffin Island ski mountaineering expedition was to make a self-sufficient 20-day journey in the Cumberland Peninsula mountains, climbing suitable peaks en route with standar...
Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld, Various Activity and Tragedy. A British group led by Nigel Edwards was flown into the east branch of the Kronborg Gletscher at ca. 68° 55' N, 28° 25' W. During their stay, which was marred by periods of very poor weather, t...
Kahiltna Peaks, traverse. Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue traversed the Kahiltna Peaks from west to east, then continued high on the Cassin Ridge in attempting a massive enchainment. Although specifics will never be known, clues fr...
Makalu Winter Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Keizo Nakano, Akitsugu Nishimura, Toyuru Akimoto, Osamu Nagashima, Hiroshi Takagi, Michiko Sonoda and me as leader. We established Base Camp on November 22 at 4800 meters at the end of the Barun...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. Charlie Fowler (U.S.) was in the area from late November until mid-February. With various partners, he climbed the following. Right French Couloir (TD-5.9 60° ice mixed, 400m) on Guillaumet, December 5, 1998,...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of 13 Spaniards and two Italians. We set up Base Camp on April 3. Camps I, II, III and IV were established at 5950, 6400, 7400 and 7900 meters on April 5, 8, 26 and May 19. We were able to set up the fi...
Peter Irving’s Journals, edited by Leonard B. Beach, Theodore Hornberger and Wyllis E. Wright. 8vo., 128 pages. New York: New York Public Library, 1943. Price $2.00.Edited from manuscripts in the Sterling Memorial Library, Yale University, the Mir...
Cachi, north face. Cachi is a sacred 6,380m mountain in Salta, Argentina. Nicolás Pantaleón and Nicolás Yannito, both from Salta, ascended the virgin north face in November. They began on November 8, and continued marching until switching to the r...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY,INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 25,1986 at 1410, Ranger Torrie Finley reported to dispatch that a climber had fallen in the Church Bowl area. Rangers Jim Tucker, Torrie Finley...
Kanjut Sar II. Our expedition comprised Daria Vezzoli, Ueli Stahel, Richi Ott, Hans Peter Achtnich and me as leader. On the approach march along the Hispar Glacier from Nagar with 29 porters, we had lots of problems. Endless discussions over wages...
Mount Augusta. Mount Augusta (4289 meters, 14,070 feet) was first climbed by Pete Schoening and party in 1953 by the north ridge, by Don Seri and party in 1987 by the north rib and by Mark Bebie and Bill Pilling in 1990 by the south ridge. Ade Mil...
Everest, Hornbein Couloir, Winter Attempt, 1985-6. An expedition to Mount Everest in the winter of 1985-6 was not reported in the A .A J. Under the leadership of Mrs. Michiko Takahashi, Japanese attempted to climb the mountain via the Hornbein Cou...
Kangtega, North Face, New Route. From May 20-28, Valeri Babanov established a new line on the north face of Kangtega (6799m). His efforts ended at 6600 meters on the northwest ridge, where he connected to a line climbed by a Japanese team in 1979....
Mount Redoubt, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. Reconnaissance of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet) showed the most feasible route to lead up a glacier on the northeast face. This glacier is the starting point of Redoubt River, which flows 15 miles ea...
Peak 6,175m, first ascent, medical research, map errors, and documentary. The aims of our expedition were threefold: to complete a first assent; to carry out medical research into the prediction of altitude sickness; and to make a documentary of t...
Dudh Ganga, 1989. From Kedamath village, Dave Pollari and I carried heavy loads over a high pass to Vasuni Tal to make the first ascent of Dudh Ganga (5462 meters, 17,920 feet), which straddles the drainage to the north of the village. The peak ri...
Chogolisa Glacier region; Pointed Peak (ca 5,400m), Peak 5,300m; Chogolisa Catedral, Pilastro Kekka (4,500m); Raven’s Peak, Chogolisa Shield (ca 5,300m); various new routes. We left for Pakistan in our usual style, six people without prefixed goal...