In Memoriam AAJ
Michael R. Franklin, 1945-1996

MICHAEL R. FRANKLIN1945-1996Michael R. Franklin, born December 31, 1945, in Boston, Massachusetts, was killed in an auto accident on January 3 near his home in Herriman, Utah. He is survived by his wife, Cheryl.Michael joined the AAC in 1983. An e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Jammu, Kanglacha

Kanglacha. All members of a 14-man Japanese expedition led by Yoshio Ogose reached the summit of Kanglacha (6150, 20,177 feet) on August 11, 13 and 17.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range

Wind River Range. A number of interesting climbs were made in this region by a group from the Appalachian Mountain Club, as well as an ascent of Gannett Peak by our member, Orrin H. Bonney, with two local boys. A group of ten from the Appalachian ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Sinclair, Coast Range

Mount Sinclair, Coast Range. Jerry Buckley, Joe Greenough and I made the first ascent of Mount Sinclair (c. 7000 feet) in mid-June, 1973. It is located 3½ miles from tidewater near the eastern shore of Lynn Canal, 60 miles northwest of Juneau. We ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascades, Mount Index, Middle Peak, West Face

Mount Index, Middle Peak, West Face. This ascent was made by Don Gordon (Claunch) and me on June 12 with a planned bivouac on the descent about 600 feet below the summit. The lower portions of this gigantic face, about 2800 feet high, had been att...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh Himal, Kangchenjunga, Ramtang, And Medical Research

Kangchenjunga, Ramtang, And Medical Research. Base Camp was established at Pangpema at 5100 meters on the north side of Kangchenjunga. Chris Comerie and his seven-strong climbing team attempted to repeat the 1979 Boardman-Tasker-Scott route on Kan...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice — Placed No Protection, Inexperience, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Waterton National Park

FALL ON ICE – PLACED NO PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Waterton National ParkOn January 1, a group of climbers met at a popular ice climbing area in Waterton National Park. Upon arriving at the base of the climbs, it was discov...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. Our expedition of French guides consisted of Francis Chaud, Alain Hantz, Titou Sagot, my husband Jean-Jacques Rolland, Dr. Bernard Hostein and me as leader. Having arrived at Base Camp on June 4, the whole team got to 7000 meters on Ju...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Clachnacudainn Range, Mount Revelstoke National Park

Clachnacudainn Range, Mount Revelstoke National Park, British Columbia. Around and near the Clachnacudainn Snowfield the small granite peaks of the Clachnacudainn Range rise to an altitude of more than 8600 feet. Although outlying peaks had been c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face Tragedy

Lhotse South Face Tragedy. Although two expeditions from Katowice, Poland had already tried this tremendous wall, both times they had lacked luck—one or two windless days when the attacking teams were high. This year we managed to organize a team ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mount Asgard, Northwest Face, Cumberland Peninsula

Mount Asgard, Northwest Face, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. In mid-July Pat Padden, Shary McVoy, Rick Sylvester, and I were finally on our way to the unclimbed northwest face of Mount Asgard. Upon our arrival at the Eskimo village of Pangni...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Luna Norway, Tromso Region

In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north face. Luna (430m, Nor 5+ A3) starts 15-20m right of Frost (M5 A3, Bo-Nebell, 2007) and in the first section follows a well-defined line. Above, the r...

| Published N/A


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Momentary Inattentiveness, Washington, Dome Peak

FALLING ROCK, MOMENTARY INATTENTIVENESS Washington, Dome PeakOn August 8, 1988, Jeff Becker (29) was fatally injured while descending the south ridge of Dome Peak.We were a party of four, a family outing, having begun the Ptarmigan Traverse at Ste...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascade Mountains, Davis Peak, Northeast Face

Davis Peak, Northeast Face. On July 12, Dallas Kloke and I climbed this 2000-foot face, beginning directly below the summit and reaching the summit ridge just south of it. It took one long day from our car in Diablo. NCCS III, F6.Bryce Simon, unaf...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Various Ascents in the Revelation Mountains

Various Ascents in the Revelation Mountians. Doug Beyerly, Calvin Hebert, Scott Raynor, and I flew into Fish Creek Glacier in the Revelations on May 3. During our three weeks in the Revelation Mountains we ascended P. 8,215 (Goose Peak) by its nor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Clothing, Weather, California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure Dome

STRANDED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, WEATHER California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure DomeOn July 14, 1992, Gary Damsley (23) and Allyson Pendleton (29) became stranded during a rain storm they experienced one pitch from the top of South Cra...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Incomplete Tie-In Knot, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

FALL ON ROCK - INCOMPLETE TIE-IN KNOTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn May 28, Colin Gregg (34) was top-roping the first pitch of C’est La Vie (5.9) on Redgarden Wall. He had difficulty at a crux about 30 feet off the starting belay ledge (wh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt

Baintha Brakk, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition had as its members Andy Perkins, Chris Flewitt, Steve Hartland, Phil Butler, Dave Green, Dr. Timothy Jordan, Paul Nunn and me. After porter problems, we eventually established Base Camp on July 17...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Sherpi Kangri Attempt

Sherpi Kangri Attempt. We did not get permission to attempt Batura Mustagh I and had to be content with unclimbed Sherpi Kangri, attempted by Japanese last year. The reason given us was that because of the construction of the Karakoram Highway the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2)—On July 11, 1956 Felix Knauth (26), Carol Rudnick (23) and Sylvia Kenshaw (32) had made an attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Owen, but did not complete the ascent and began their return to base camp. Felix K...