Koh-e-Kamisktar, Wakhan. Walter Mejak, Fabio Benedetti, Floriane» Tarlao, Nicolò Zuffi and I left Trieste on June 16 and traveled overland to Kabul and Faizabad, where we had to transfer to a hired truck to proceed to Qala Panja nearly at the spot...
Abominable Snow Man Expedition. The Daily Mail’s expedition returned without having achieved their objective of seeing snow men (yeti).
Yerupajá, West Face Attempt. A French expedition failed to climb the west face of Yerupajá because of lack of time, porters and climbers. They got only a few hundred feet up the face. The group was led by Jacques Soubis.
La Catedral, Southeast Face, and Torre Norte del Paine, West Face. Fabio Leoni, Danny Zampiccoli, Paola Fanton, Flavia Menotti and I spent January and February in the Paine region. We placed Base Camp at the foot of the southeast face of La Catedr...
North Howser Tower, Southwest Buttress, “Young Men on Fire,” Bugaboos. After a grueling, multi-day 25-kilometer approach to the base of the 3000-foot-high west face of the North Howser Tower, we looked up the massive face, a classic big wall of si...
SLIP OR FALL ON SNOW, PARTY SEPARATEDWashington, Mount RainierOn January 2, 1991, a three person climbing party consisting of Mark Fogarty (26), Phil Buck (26), and Binget Hanson (24) returned to Camp Muir after successfully climbing Mount Rainier...
Syn Qing Feng XVIII. A Japanese expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu attempted unsuccessfully to climb Sin Qing Feng I. They turned to Syn Qing Feng XVIII (6237 meters, 20,463 feet), which they climbed by its south ridge. On August 18, Tadashi Fukuy...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On June 6, 1955, Victor Milligan (23), a student from Belfast, Ireland, and his companion had been hiking up the Glacier Trail when they came to a point where the trail was still completely covered by snow. T...
Peak C, North Face. The north face of Peak C in the Gore Range has remained, as far as we know, one of the last big unclimbed faces in Colorado. Erickson and Cooper approached from the north on their first ascent in 1932, but swung around to the s...
Peaks near Latok. The goal of our expedition was to make the first complete ascent of the north ridge of Latok I. The mountain had been ascended once before from the south by Japanese in 1979. Some confusion exists in the designation of the Latok ...
FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, UNROPED, POOR VISIBILITYBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier, Howser SpiresOn September 3, R. D. and K. S. completed a new route on North Howser Spire (3400 meters), and after most of the descent, were unroped on a low-angled s...
An expedition from the Czech Republic led by Karel Plechac attempted this 7,038m peak to the northwest of Manaslu. The first and only recorded ascent of the mountain took place in October 1994 when a large Japanese-Nepalese expedition (joint climb...
K7 Attempt. Italians F. Arneodo, M. Bozzolan, D. Longata, S. Rossi and D. Sacchetti attempted to climb K7 (6935 meters, 22,753 feet) via a new route, the southwest spur, from the Charakusa Glacier. Bad weather kept them from getting higher than 47...
Success on Mt. Vancouver. On 5 July 1949 four climbers reached the summit of Mt. Vancouver (15,720 ft.), which had been the highest unclimbed peak in North America. The party consisted of Noel Odell, William R. Hainsworth, Robert S. McCarter and A...
Ama Dablam, Tawoche and Cholatse. An expedition of 11 South Koreans led by Son Moon-Kyu had three objectives. On September 10, Kim Young- Jeoung and Park Byoung-Sun climbed to the top of Ama Dablam by the normal southwest ridge. On September 9, Li...
In July and August, 1997, Joanne Jeske and I traveled widely throughout Kham, the old eastern province of Tibet. With the exception of Minya Konka and vicinity, this region has largely been neglected by climbers, despite the fact that it is one of...
Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. Third Edition. Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1992. 180 pages, topos and black-and-white photos. $18.00.If Yosemite Valley is the St. Peter’s of rock climbing, Tuolumne Meadows mus...
BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE Washington, Mt. RainierOn September 8, Shirli Voight (30) of Denver and Guillermo Mendoza (28) of Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, were found buried in the snow about 13,300 feet near Mount Rainier National Park’s Disappointment C...
Tuolumne Meadows, 1983. This area received its first official guidebook in 1983, written by local climbing guides Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Here are some routes done since the publication of the guide. Bastard from the Bush (5.11) climbs thr...
Gurja Himal, First Spanish Ascent. From August 25 until October 4 the first Spanish expedition to Gurja Himal (7193 m) in the Dhaulagiri region of Nepal took place. The group (Pedro Nicolás, Leader, and Jose L. Fernández, Club Peñalara de Madrid; ...