Mount Munday, North Face. After a week climbing Waddington and satellite peaks with the Everett Mountaineers, Bob Kandiko and I felt the provocative 2300-foot north face of Mount Munday should wait no longer. On August 4, after a bivouac in Bravo ...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (6), Nez Perce—On August 18, Alex Shoumatoff (11) was a member of the Colorado Mountain Club’s 1959 summer outing in Grand Teton National Park. During a group climb on Nez Perce, at the base of the northwest coul...

El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that E.J. Luis Garcia Gallego and Alfonso Cerdán (Spain) established the route Murcia (VI 5.10 A4) on El Capitan over 44 days. Further details are lacking. (Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya)

FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTION, SELF-RESCUECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 18, according to his partner, Steve Keiser (19) was leading the second pitch of Sentinel Rock, 40 to 50 feet out on “easy” rock, when he fell about 7:30 a.m. Unconscious bri...

Cholatse, northeast face, second ascent with variant. At first believing they were opening a new route, Slovenians Tomaz Humar, Ales Kozelj, and Janko Opresnik climbed the steep and icy 1,300m northeast face of 6,440m Cholatse, more or less follow...

Alberta, Snow Dome. On July 15, Jack Fralick (35+) and Paul and Anne Stettner started to climb Snow Dome via the Athabaska Glacier. They had traversed two icefalls and were about 2 hours from the summit, at 1:30 p.m., when Fralick, in the lead, no...

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. SeymourMichael Rempel (21) was hiking with two companions on February 23, 1980, when he fell 300 meters down the gully between Mt. Seymour’s second and third peaks. At the top of th...

Aleta del Tiburon, Ascent. In November, 1996, Hugo Mieraga, Jaime Sapunar, Victor Munoz and Cristian Oyarzo, all from Puerto Natales, Chile, climbed Nuestro Primer Rayo (14 pitches, 5.9 A1) in three days. The team fixed ropes and bivied 30 minutes...

FALLING ICE-FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Johnson Canyon Upper FallsOn January 19, J. G. was standing at the base of an ice pillar when a climber above dislodged large pieces of ice. One of the pieces hit her and she fell...

Rooster Comb, Northwest Ridge of P 9680 to P 9220. Andy Cunningham and I climbed the northwest ridge of P 9680 to an upper snow shelf on May 14 and 15, traversed left and climbed to the summit of P 9220 on May 16 and descended the same route on Ma...

Nepal Mountaineering School in its Third Year. The school in the Manang valley near the small village of Sapche Khola, built by Yugoslavs, started in 1979. (See A.A.J., 1980, page 621.) In June 1980 Den Cedilnik, in charge, Stane Belak, Zvone Kobe...

Huayna Potosí, West Face and Ancohuma, Cordillera Real. During June Miro and Pogacar, Viljem Božic, Blaž Jereb, Borut Kersnik, Franc Ferjan and Miha Zumer were in the Cordillera Real. On June 9 they camped under the west face of Huaya Potosí. On J...

Paty Peak, South Ridge. I well accepted the fresh snow that slowed Dean Hernandez and Mathew Sinclair’s approach to Paty Peak’s north ridge—I hadn't seen the two of them for at least two years—and shifted our objective from a mixed route on anothe...

Palomani Tranca, Cordillera Apolobamba. In July British climbers Jim Curran, Andy Maskrey and I went to the rarely visited Cordillera Apolobamba on the Peruvian-Bolivian border, 80 miles northeast of Lake Titicaca. We explored the Peruvian flanks ...

AVALANCHEUtah, PfeifferhornOn November 21, 1982, John Rehmer (29) and Dave Bjorkland (25) skied the five- hour approach to the base of the East Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn without realizing the recent build-up of high-ridge windslab. They then dropp...

FALLS ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Charlotte DomeOn July 7, 1984, Michael Renta (37) was off route on the eighth pitch (5.7) of Charlotte’s Web when he injured his ankle and ribs in a five to si...

Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. Frederika is a beautiful, snow cone just east of Mount Regal. The mountain was first named Mount Abercrombie but was later given its present name in honor of Frederick Schwatka, an early USGS explorer to the...

Thalay Sagar, Attempt on the North Face. Dr. X. Bigard, H. Giot, H. Sachetat, P. Royer, D. Seguier, J.P. Chaligne, liaison officer Malkeit Singh Meit and I left Gangotri on August 27 and after a three-day approach got to Base Camp at Kedartal at 1...

Mount Bryce, Winter Ascent. The east ridge of Mount Bryce was climbed in January by Joe Mckay and Greg Colorach for the first winter ascent of the peak. The pair bypassed the central peak to reach the summit. This had been the elusive goal of many...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BridgelandOn July 31, 1988, a party of six established camp at an altitude of 2200 meters at the base of Mount Bridgeland. Next morning at 0500, they set out for the summit via th...