Chigmit Mountains, Reconnaissance. In late May 1983, Peter Reed and I travelled by float-plane to Lake Iliamna in search of good rock. We had heard from geologists that the nearby Chigmit Mountains possessed large quantities of granite which might...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On 3 September a party of four had completed the ascent of the Grand Teton under good weather conditions. As the party was descending by the Owen Route Mr. Newcomb saw that the party was beginning t...
PULMONARY EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED AND FALL ON SNOW,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 25, 1983, Mikio Yamakami (30), Nobuyoshi Chiba (27), Masato Watanabe (27), Yutaka Asakura and Yoko Shimizu were flown onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltn...
Puna de Atacama. The International Atacama Expedition was active in the southern part of the Puna de Atacam during the first quarter of 1965. The members were Mathias Rebitsch, Austrian; Benjamin Dixon, Sergio and Joan Domicelj, Argentines; and Ve...
FALL INTO CREVASSE (1) AND FALL ON ICE/WINDSLABBED SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DESCENDING UNROPED, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 15, a five member Spanish expedition, “Gambo De Palamos,” left their camp at 17,200 feet to atte...
Cordillera Raura. A British expedition from the University of London School of Economics, led by Peter C. Bebbington and composed of Edward Booth, Christopher Jones, Beverley Clark and Dr. Patrick Thomas, climbed principally in the Cordillera Raur...
American Women’s Expedition to Dhaulagiri I, Pear Route Attempt. After delays in Bangkok, where we had to transship our gear, our AAC- sponsored expedition left Pokhara in two groups on August 13 and 14, with a total of 270 local porters. It took ...
Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta, Attempt, and Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet, First Winter Ascents. Paul Ramsden, Jim Hall, Nick Lewis and Andy Kirkpatrick were in Argentine Patagonia from June 20-July 20, 1999. Setting off at 2 a.m. on July 1, we f...
Batura II. An expedition of the Himalayan Association of Japan was composed of ten members and was led by Mitsuaki Nishigori. Base Camp was set up on the Baltar Glacier at 13,800 feet on May 9, south of the peak. They first attempted the south spu...
North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep. On April 22 Mike Pennings and I finished our longterm project on the western edge of the North Chasm View Wall. The route tackles an obvious dihedral system located 200 yards up the narrow, choss-capped gull...
Mounts “Petrie,” “Plaskett,” and Walrus. From a base camp on the shore of Dimsdale Lake near Gray Pass in the northermost British Columbia Rockies, George and Marcia Wallerstein, Bob O’Dell, Tom Grenfell, Lyman Spitzer, and I made three first asce...
West Lone Pine Peak, Red Baron Tower. At the head of Tuttle Creek the western continuation of Lone Pine Peak curls in an extension of the high erosion surface to a really separate summit, which has been called “Peak 13,016,” but which could equall...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The major event of 1963 for the Harvard Mountaineering Club was the Mount McKinley Wickersham Wall Expedition. A party of seven succeeded in establishing a direct new route up the 14,000-foot North Face, as described i...
Changabang. Our group consisted of Elke Rudolf of West Germany, Brigitte Koch of Belgium, and Mark Moorhead, Rod Mackenzie, Jon Muir and me of Australia. At Lata we hired Dharam Singh, nine other porters and some 70 goats for the approach. We were...
Amne Machin. The Alpine Journal of November, 1961, carries an interesting article written by Pai Chin-Hsiao, leader of a Chinese expedition which claims the first ascent of Amne Machin. It will be recalled that this peak was reported to be very hi...
A Climber’s Guide to Oregon, by Nicholas A. Dodge. Portland, Oregon: Mazamas and Beattie & Co., 1968. 154 pages (plus eight pages of Introduction), eight photographs, 68 maps and sketches. Price: $3.95.In addition to furnishing interesting his...
Himalayan Quest, by Paul Bauer. Foreword by Sir Francis Young-husband. Translated from the German by E. G. Hall. Small 4to ; xxv and 150 pages, with 96 illustrations. London : Nicholson and Watson, 1938. Price 21s.One of my disappointments this pa...
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is one of the major glaciers of the west arm of Glacier Bay, southeast Alaska, and is surrounded by major summits of the Fairweather Range, from Mt. Quincy Adams in the north to Mt. Crillon in the south. Thanks to the loc...
Menhir, Baffin Island. In May, Egidio Bonapace, Maurizio Giarolli and I traveled up the fjord from Pangnirtung by ski-doo. High temperatures forced us to stop at Windy Lake because the river from that point onward was nearly completely melted. We ...
Alpine Club of Canada. In 1970 the A.C.C. had one of its most active years to date. The various activities included: the ski camp in Garibaldi Park, B.C.; the general mountaineering camp in the Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park; a Calgary Secti...