Chicago Mountaineering Club. 1960 was the twentieth year of the club’s operation; the organization now has 158 members with 50 qualified rope leaders. The year’s activities once again consisted of training and rockclimbing week-ends throughout the...
Bhrigupath Attempt and Bhrigu Pathar. Britons Kevin O’Neale, Martin Welch, Ian Drigg and I were active in the Gangotri region in mid-September. The Bhagirathi Glacier and its encircling mountain faces had remained unexplored until our visit. Only ...
Meditations on the Peaks: Mountain Climbing as a Metaphor for the Spiritual Quest. Julius Evola, translated by Guido Stucco. Inner Traditions: Rochester, Vermont, 1998. 115 pages. $12.95.At first glance, I thought Meditations on the Peaks: Mountai...
FALL ON ICE, NO EXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn February, two inexperienced climbers in their early 20s (never climbed ice before) signed out boots, crampons, and ice tools from the demo people at the annual IMCS Mount Washington Valley...
The Romance of Mountaineering, by R. L. G. Irving. 8 vo. ; ix + 320 pages, with 41 illustrations, maps and diagrams. London : J. M. Dent & Sons, 1935. Price 18s.Contemplation of mountains—of their climbers and of their effects upon men (and pa...
Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Second Edition. Ed Webster. Mountain Imagery (PO Box 210, Eldorado Springs, Colorado 80025), 1987. 564 pages, 85 black-and-white photographs, 2 color photographs (on cover), 5 maps, bibliography...
Batura II, attempt; Yashuk Glacier, Nadin Sar, Jehangir Sar, Caboom Sar, and Mamu Sar, first ascents. In early summer Markus Walter (Germany) and I made another attempt on Batura II (7,762m), considered by some the highest unclimbed peak in the wo...
The Stanford Alpine Club: Featuring the Photography of Tom Frost, Henry Kendall, and Leigh Ortenburger. John Rawlings. Foreword by Steve Roper. Photography editor Glen Denny. Stanford, California: CSLI Publications and the Stanford University Libr...
Toro Peak, south face, Direttissma; Tamadonog, Long Life Ridge. On August 27 Anna Pfaff and I arrived at the usual Miyar Valley base camp after blue skies during our three-day trek, and then had to wait out a three-day storm. We scoped a direct li...
Huayna Potosí. After our climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, Don McKay of the New Zealand expedition and I traveled south to Bolivia as ordinary tourists. After leaving the Titicaca boat, we journeyed all afternoon by rail in full view of the Cordill...
1951-741975GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta512066British Columbia8229152Yukon Territory101028Ontario111Quebec111West Arctic112Practice Cliffs 11214United State...
Chomo LonzoA French national expedition pioneers two 7,000~meter-plus peaks in Tibet.Yannick GrazianiFor the first time in my experience, a high-altitude expedition is entirely sponsored. This makes it so easy to leave—all we have to do is to show...
Mount McKinley: The Conquest of Denali. Bradford Washburn and David Roberts. Preface by Ansel Adams. Photographs mostly by Bradford Washburn (more than 120 illustrations, including 77 photographs in duotone, 41 in full color). Text by Bradford Was...
K7 West (6,615m), southeast buttress, not to summit. We arrived in the Charakusa with no single plan, but were quickly captivated by the beautiful southeast buttress of K7 West. We saw that this sheer wall, which begins at 5,000m, could be logical...
This is the thirty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and the second that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Forty-three accidents are known to us to have...
WILLIAM W. HOOKER1934-1974The Peruvian Andes were a familiar mountain range for Bill Hooker. I first met him there in 1972 when we were climbing together from a base camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz. It was his second trip to Peru— having been in t...
The North Face of Mount BrusselsGlenn RandallDANE WATERMAN AND I had met only a week before beneath the 5000-foot north face of North Twin. Both of us had come to the Canadian Rockies planning to climb that face. In separate attempts, both of us h...
Manaslu, Kazakh Route. Kazakh super-high-altitude climbers, Sergei Samoilov and Denis Urubko, followed their very impressive 2005 alpine style new route on the southwest face of Broad Peak with a new route on the northeast face of 8,163m Manaslu. ...
AVALANCHE – FAILURE TO ANALYZE SNOWPACK, POOR POSITIONWyoming, Snowy RangeOn November 6th, Brice Portwood (27) and I (Ed Warren – 25) were trying to climb a mixed route (a summer rock route, but never climbed as a mixed/ice climb as far as we know...
RAYMOND C. GARNER1913-1989Ray Garner died after a short illness on July 20 at the age of 76. His untimely death cut short yet another adventure in his life. The following month, he and his wife Jinny were planning to return to the sites of early m...