The Fin, Earth, Wind, and Choss, New Route. On May 7, Russel Mitrovich, Mike Libecki, and I, plus expedition camera crew Peter Mallamo and John Middendorf, departed from Clyde River on a 120-mile dogsled journey over the frozen Baffin Bay. We hire...
Mountain Rescue—Chamonix Mt. Blanc: A Season with the World’s Busiest Mountain Rescue Service. Anne Sauvy. Translated by Sue Harper. London: Baton Wicks, 2005. 300 pages. Softcover. £14.99. $34.95.Anyone who has climbed very much in Chamonix recog...
Castle Peak, Herrington-Hirst. Inspired by tales of steep, clean granite and impressed with the attention given to Castle Peak by the likes of Fred Beckey and Alan Kearney, I recruited Peter Hirst into joining me for Castle’s north face, which is ...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
In late June, Steve Bosque and I completed a 13-pitch independent line on the west face of Liberty Cap. The route follows a long crack system that shoots straight through a huge, white scar, the wall’s most prominent feature. Steve and his...
The Sikkim HimalayaROBERT H. T. DODSONSikkim is a tiny, semi-autonomous state, ruled by a Maharajah and enclosing within its borders some of the highest and most spectacular parts of the Himalaya. It is a rectangle, approximately 60 miles from nor...
Cuchillo, New Route. In July, Jeff Newsom and Chris Gardei (U.S.) gained Cuchillo’s (5655m) west ridge via the fourth snow and ice gully from the east (60-65°). The pair were forced down off the ridge on to the other side of the mountain. They the...
The Minaret, Reinhold Pussycat; Flattop Peak, Sibling Rivalry. On July 28 Bruce Miller and I completed the first ascent of the west face of The Minaret in 18 hours round trip from the East Creek Basin. Reinhold Pussycat (V 5.10+ A2) follows a natu...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Daff DomeOn July 29, Hope Wolf (28), an instructor for the Yosemite Mountaineering School, was leading a group of six clients back from a day’s climbing at Daff Dome when they were caught by a mid...
Roca Grande de la Junta, Cerro Virgen, New Route. Catalans Joanfra Farreras, Xavier Teixidó, Josep Maria Esquirol, Pau Barrios and Manel Solís, with the collaboration of Guillem Barrios, climbed a new route on Roca Grande de la Junta in the early ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On the morning of September 10, a party consisting of Elmer Post (39), David Post (19) and James Bartram (19) attempted to make a one day hike to Camp Muir from Paradise and return. The weather at Paradise during the day w...
Sarah and Tony Whitehouse returned to the Hermelndal to finish their line attempted in 2007 (see AAJ 2008), left of Rapakivi Road on the east face of Tininnertuup IV. The pair used fixed ropes, and after climbing the first three pitches of Rapakiv...
FALL ON SNOW–LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, IMPROPER CLOTHINGCalifornia, Mount BaldyOn April 16, veteran California mountaineer and author Robert (R.J.) Secor (48), glissaded out of control 1,200 vertical feet from near the summit of Mount...
The North American Andean Expedition, 1964Huandoy Sur and ChacrarajuHenry L. Abrons and Daniel E. Doody*COPA, PALCARAJU, HUANDOY SURThe best attempts to describe the 1964 North American Andean Expedition are prone to fall short, for it consisted o...
Niels Holgersen Nunatakker, multiple first ascents. In June and July, the team of Geoff Bonney, James Carnegie, Gordon Downs, David Keaton, John Starbuck, and Paul Walker climbed several peaks in the Niels Holgersen Nunatakker(N 73° 22'). Between ...
MOUNT SALISBURY had been on my mind almost daily for the past two years. It all started when Mike Heath, Bill Sumner, and Dusan Jagersky returned from Alaska’s Fair-weather Range after an attempt on Salisbury’s northwest face. (A.A.J., 1976, p. ...
As Sarah Garlick put it, “The dream was to gather a small team of friends and head somewhere unspoiled and far away… and to climb. I chose Greenland for a variety of reasons, but most of them came down to the simple allure of wildness. I knew I co...
In 1935 Lincoln Ellsworth sighted a mountain range in western Antarctica on his trans-continental flight. He named these peaks the Sentinel Mountains. During the 1957-58 austral summer, William Long and his traverse party became the first overland...
Siula Chico, A Scream of Silence, to summit ridge. Our five-member Slovene expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash had plans for a direct line on the southeast face of Jiris- hanca and a new line on the southeast face of Siula Chico. However, two m...
Reminiscences of Mt. St. EliasWilliam WilliamsFOLLOWING a recent dinner of mountaineering friends in New York at which I gave an impromptu talk on the attempt made in 1888 to ascend Mt. St. Elias, I was asked to reduce to writing what I had said. ...