Mustagh Ata. Our group of eleven rode with jeep and truck south from Kashgar. On July 4 we reached a Kirghiz settlement, Jambukuk, at 12,500 feet, west of Mustagh Ata. Five camels carried our loads to 14,750 feet below the Chal Tumak Glacier on Ju...
Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. Jeffrey Duenwald, Andrew Harvard, Del Langbauer, James Janney, Paul and Chela Kunasz, my wife Nola and I left Olleros on July 21 and trekked for three days along an ancient Inca road over 15,700-foot Punta Yanashal...
Angel Peak. In January, Paul Fehlau and I attempted a new route on the unclimbed south face of Angel Peak. The rock was softer than any I had played on in the desert. I knocked so much loose material on Paul that we abandoned the attempt. We then ...
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, ascents. La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, I’ve climbed in this area, specifically the Rio Colorado Valley, t...
Kang Guru, Winter Attempt. A British-Australian team led by Michael Chapman was unsuccessful on Kang Guru, but they got close. Their high point was 6800 meters. They climbed the west face to the west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Mount Thor, Southeast Face. A new route, using the prominent dihedral bearing toward the east summit crest, was done on May 19 by Leland Davis, Mike McGoey, and me. The key pitches were the second one in the dihedral, and the final one on the head...
He Devil Peak, East Ridge, Seven Devils Mountains. On July 24,I climbed He Devil Peak by following the crest of the east ridge from the He Devil-She Devil col to the summit of He Devil. Three short fourth-class chimneys were encountered, the last ...
FALL ON ROCK, COMBING SOLO, NO HARD HAT Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Mont du Gros BrasOn September 3, 1989, at 1645, Alain S. (29) was climbing solo on Hallunbeinbrunch, a difficult 300-meter route. He was wearing a harness with some hardware, bu...
The Adaman Club of Denver and Colorado Springs continue their custom of ascending Pikes Peak (14,110 feet) every New Year’s Eve. Several members of The American Alpine Club are members.A small group of members of the Colorado Mountain Club have or...
Jogin I and III Ascents; P 6529 Attempt. A 19-man expedition of the London Metropolitan Police and Scotland Yard was led by Superintendent John Peck; the climbing leader was Lew Hardy. On September 6, 8, and 10, Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) ...
Kangchung, 1989. In April and May, 1989, Caroline Albright, David Kennison, Paul Gardner, Donald Cook, Bob Chereck, John Landers, David Landers and I made several climbs in the Everest region. A warm-up climb was made to the highest point of P 548...
Hiunchuli Patan. Our party consisted of Roger Breakall, J. Darling, J. Gostling and me. We arrived in the vicinity of Hiunchuli Patan (28° 55'N, 82° 40'E) on September 30 but it took us two weeks to force a way through a trackless bamboo forest an...
Nevado Anucara and Other Peaks, Northern Andes, 1993. In August, 1993, at the height of the southern winter, climbers from Valparaíso traveled to northernmost Chile. A military truck took them to Base Camp in the hamlet of Caquena at the northern ...
Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy. A 14-man Spanish Army expedition, led by Major Francisco Soria, also included several civilians. They were the only group to reach the main summit of Shisha Pangma (8027 meters, 26,336 feet) in the post-monsoon se...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee guides comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock climbing schedules; selects and trains new climb leaders; and promotes safety in all Mazam...
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue. Andy Selters. Illustrations by Jennifer Hahn. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 154 pages, 60 illustrations, 5 black-and-white photographs. Paperback. $12.95.This clearly-written and well-illustrated little textb...
From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the main peak of Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). In December 2008 the Chinese Ultimate Expedition attempted this line using fixed r...
Driftwood Valley, by Theodora C. Stanwell-Fletcher. 369 pages and 15 page appendix; illustrated. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1946. $4.00.An account of two whole years in a cabin some hundred miles northeast of Hazleton, B. C., Driftwood Valle...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonClay Roscoe (26) and Megan T. Piper (25) traveled down from Montana on July 30 and spent the night in the Bridger Teton National Forest at Station Creek, located in ...
El Mocho, Little Big Wall. We left our equipment at the foot of Media Luna, in front of El Mocho, in preparation for our attempt on Cerro Torre. Thanks to all the strong mental training for our first expedition, we took our stuff and put everythin...