FALL ON ICE-MEDIOCRE ICE QUALITY, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliff, PegasusOn March 14 the climber started up the lower right side of Pegasus. This was the most interesting side of the climb at this time and it had been done ...
Kikash, Huaman Hueque Group, Cordillera Huallanca, 1984 and 1986. In the Río Pativilca valley between the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash is the little town of Aquia. Immediately to the east lies the Huaman Hueque group, a relatively virgin area....
AVALANCHE, WEATHERAlaska, Chugach State ParkOn January 29, 1983, Mike Miller (29), Alden Johnson (31), and Neil O’Donnell (29) of Anchorage, Alaska, were attempting a climb of South Suicide Peak when a snow storm and 20 to 40 knot winds turned the...
Aconcagua Tragedy. Shei Wada, Koichi Takeuchi and Yukinobu Koyama set off to try to make a winter ascent of the Yugoslav route on the south face of Aconcagua. They disappeared and have not been seen since September 21.
HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1, Peter Staples (48) of the “OSAT,03” expedition, suffered from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) while camping at the 17,200-foot camp on Mt. McKinley’s West Buttress route. Staples was assiste...
Broad Peak. Enric Pujol, Manuel Hernández, Sergio Escalera, Agustí Sanabria and I as leader left Skardu with 26 low-altitude porters on June 25 and got to Base Camp at Concordia on July 5. We made camps at 18,700, 20,675, 22,950 and 24,450 feet. I...
La Esfinge, Lobo Estepario, New Route. In July, I completed the route Lobo Estepario (VI A3 6b obl., 650m). (This was the first solo ascent of La Esfinge-Ed.) All of the belays are equipped with double expansion bolts, except for pitch 13, which h...
AVALANCHE, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount SnowdomeOn March 23, 1986, Alan Deane (26) was climbing with two friends in the Columbia Icefields of Jasper National Park. He decided to solo an ice climb ca...
Gangapurna from the North. Our expedition was to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Slovensko Planinsko Društvo (Slovene Alpine Club). We were delayed five days in Kathmandu trying in vain to find a precious load which had our ski poles, Base C...
AAC, Rocky Mountain Section. A result of a survey of our members has been the breakup of the section into more manageable units. The Rocky Mountain Section was the largest section in the AAC, both in terms of members and geography. Breaking up the...
Himalchuli. Our members were Toshikazu Sugai, Yasuhiro Takiguchi, Masayuki Saito, Hideaki Okamoto, Ms. Yuko Yoshida and I as leader. On August 30 we made Base Camp at 4900 meters. Camp I was established on September 9 on the first rock face at 570...
Banderpunch West, Ascent. An Institute of Climbers and Explorers expedition led by Sudipta Mitra made an ascent of Banderpunch West (6302m) in September. The team reached Base Camp on August 31. Camps were placed as follows: CI at 5210 meters; CII...
Dhaulagiri V Attempt. Four Spaniards hoped to climb Dhaulagiri V by the southeast ridge via White Peak, the route climbed by Japanese in 1979. Camp II was at 6400 meters on the summit of White Peak. Leader Angel Sierra and Xavier Robiro reached 70...
The first climb of this face was done on October 20, 1974 by Walt Vennum, Phil Warrender, and me; the route is on the right side (long side) of the face, near where it corners to the south. The route is all face climbing, much on small holds, with...
Andes: The first mountaineering hut in the Andes was opened at Easter of this year with due formality by the Deutsche Ausflug Vereine of Santiago and Valpariso. The hut, called “Lo Valdes,” the construction of which was made possible by a subventi...
Cerro Balmaceda, west face, possible new route. In February 2002 Spaniards Iñaki San Vicente and Carlos Garcia de Cortazar made what appears to be the second, or perhaps third, ascent of this beautiful 2,035m peak, which lies at the northern end o...
Makalu, Ascent of the West Pillar and Tragedy. A Spanish expedition led by Carles Vallès was further composed of Manu Badiola, Joan Jover, Gerardo Blásquez and Dr. Rafael Martínez. During a period of 50 days, the group worked its way up the very d...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, AND EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksWe received fourteen reports from this climbing area for the year 2007.Most of the falling accidents were ...
Pik Kommunizma and Other Peaks, Pamirs. Our group consisted of Jim Bock, Ken Nolan, Chuck Huss and me. We first came to the Achik-Tash Camp at 3600 meters and then were flown to the Moskvin Base Camp at 4200 meters. The first day we climbed to set...
Caballero Primero and Yanco, Cordillera Raura. In July I led a very small group to the southern Raura range, in which we found much deep snow. We ascended Caballero Primero (5045 meters, 16,550 feet) and Nevado Yanco (5168 meters, 16,955 feet). Th...