Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. Charlie Fowler (U.S.) was in the area from late November until mid-February. With various partners, he climbed the following. Right French Couloir (TD-5.9 60° ice mixed, 400m) on Guillaumet, December 5, 1998,...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of 13 Spaniards and two Italians. We set up Base Camp on April 3. Camps I, II, III and IV were established at 5950, 6400, 7400 and 7900 meters on April 5, 8, 26 and May 19. We were able to set up the fi...
Peter Irving’s Journals, edited by Leonard B. Beach, Theodore Hornberger and Wyllis E. Wright. 8vo., 128 pages. New York: New York Public Library, 1943. Price $2.00.Edited from manuscripts in the Sterling Memorial Library, Yale University, the Mir...
Cachi, north face. Cachi is a sacred 6,380m mountain in Salta, Argentina. Nicolás Pantaleón and Nicolás Yannito, both from Salta, ascended the virgin north face in November. They began on November 8, and continued marching until switching to the r...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY,INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 25,1986 at 1410, Ranger Torrie Finley reported to dispatch that a climber had fallen in the Church Bowl area. Rangers Jim Tucker, Torrie Finley...
Kanjut Sar II. Our expedition comprised Daria Vezzoli, Ueli Stahel, Richi Ott, Hans Peter Achtnich and me as leader. On the approach march along the Hispar Glacier from Nagar with 29 porters, we had lots of problems. Endless discussions over wages...
Mount Augusta. Mount Augusta (4289 meters, 14,070 feet) was first climbed by Pete Schoening and party in 1953 by the north ridge, by Don Seri and party in 1987 by the north rib and by Mark Bebie and Bill Pilling in 1990 by the south ridge. Ade Mil...
Everest, Hornbein Couloir, Winter Attempt, 1985-6. An expedition to Mount Everest in the winter of 1985-6 was not reported in the A .A J. Under the leadership of Mrs. Michiko Takahashi, Japanese attempted to climb the mountain via the Hornbein Cou...
Kangtega, North Face, New Route. From May 20-28, Valeri Babanov established a new line on the north face of Kangtega (6799m). His efforts ended at 6600 meters on the northwest ridge, where he connected to a line climbed by a Japanese team in 1979....
Mount Redoubt, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. Reconnaissance of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet) showed the most feasible route to lead up a glacier on the northeast face. This glacier is the starting point of Redoubt River, which flows 15 miles ea...
Peak 6,175m, first ascent, medical research, map errors, and documentary. The aims of our expedition were threefold: to complete a first assent; to carry out medical research into the prediction of altitude sickness; and to make a documentary of t...
Dudh Ganga, 1989. From Kedamath village, Dave Pollari and I carried heavy loads over a high pass to Vasuni Tal to make the first ascent of Dudh Ganga (5462 meters, 17,920 feet), which straddles the drainage to the north of the village. The peak ri...
Chogolisa Glacier region; Pointed Peak (ca 5,400m), Peak 5,300m; Chogolisa Catedral, Pilastro Kekka (4,500m); Raven’s Peak, Chogolisa Shield (ca 5,300m); various new routes. We left for Pakistan in our usual style, six people without prefixed goal...
K 12. The Kyoto University Karakoram Expedition to K 12 was composed of Seiichi Kanayama, Shinichi Takagi, Tsutomu Ito, Satoshi Oku, Pakistani Second Lieutenant Zaffar Iqbal as liaison officer and me as leader. On July 25 we set up Base Camp at 15...
Cholatse. Our members were Americans Nick Beatty, Chris Breemer, Rob Cassady, Glenn Dunmire, Ed Webster and I, Canadian Andrew Brash and Argentine Tom Heinrich. We established Base Camp below the west side of the peak on October 4. Dunmire and Web...
Czerski Range, 1988. A Czechoslovak expedition climbed in the Czerski Range in eastern Siberia in 1988. (The range was named for a Pole, hence the spelling.) It lies in a remote area with a harsh climate and many unclimbed peaks. The highest, Pobe...
Mount St. Elias, Northwest Buttress. A Japanese expedition was led by Takeshi Okada and composed of Hiraoki Matsui, Yukuo Uozumi, Nobushige Sakazaki, Minoru Oshima, Kunihiko Kamata, Kiyoshi Abe and Suichi Narita. They landed at 6250 feet on the Co...
Glacier Peak, North Face. Map and aerial-photo studies showed this north face to be a massive granite wall of almost 3000 feet with a great couloir splitting into its heart. The unfortunate name "Glacier Peak” at first made Dave Beckstead and me w...
FREDERICK C. WING1915-1991Fred Wing was bom in Brooklyn and reared in Montclair, New Jersey. He graduated from Oberlin College and Harvard Law School. A life-long distance runner, he was captain of his high school and college track and cross-count...
Cerro Marconi. This peak (7400 feet) is located some seven miles northwest of FitzRoy on the eastern edge of the Patagonian Continental Icecap at the latitude of Lake Viedma. It was attempted in 1965 by a CABA expedition, which chose a poor route ...