Shisha Pangma Central Summit. A French group of hutmasters from Briançon, led by Pierre Lombard, managed to climb to the central summit (8008 meters, 26,274 feet) of Shisha Pangma in two groups: first, on September 30, by Jacques LeHir, André Beno...
Ningchin Kangsha. This 7223-meter (23,698-foot) peak lies southwest of Lhasa. It was attempted via its southwest ridge by Japanese in September, 1985, who reached 6800 meters, and was climbed by Tibetans in April 1986. Our expedition was composed ...
“Mont Maudit”, northwest face and north ridge. Many road blocks caused by landslides delayed arrival in the Miyar Valley, resulting in our seven-member expedition having only eight days at base camp. While five of the team ascended Masala Peak (ca...
North Palisade, West face. The Palisade Range offers California’s most alpine climbing on 14,000-foot peaks fluted with ice gullies that rise above cirque glaciers. Almost all the technical climbs have been in this picturesque setting on the easte...
AVALANCHE British Columbia, Yoho Park, Chancellor Peak Leif-Norman Patterson (40) and his son, Thor (12), of Golden, and J.R. Saarinen (17) of Calgary set out to climb Chancellor Peak on 12 December 1976. Avalanche warnings had been posted in th...
Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), second ascent, east face to south ridge. [Photo on page 4.] Gangwon University Korean Expedition made a new route up the Fang (7,647m), via the 1,400m east face to the south ridge. The only previous ascent of this diffic...
Aguja Mermoz, Northwest Face, Attempt. During the 1996-’97 season, Italians Maurizio Giordani and Aldo Levitti climbed a new line on the northwest face, but failed to reach the summit. The 16-pitch route climbs an obvious crack system to the left ...
Mt. Kinesava, Arrakis. In early October, Dan Gambino and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Mt. Kinesava. Arrakis (V 5.8 A2+) is ten pitches long and took three days to complete. Located about 600 feet left of King Corner, the route fo...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The A.C.C. continued to meet the challenge of change in 1992 with the election of a new Executive Committee. Ken Hewitt passed the reins of President to Doug Fox, previously Treasurer, at the Annual General Meeting in Oc...
Early American Travellers in the Alps. The paintings of “The Hudson River School,” exhibited in 1945 under the auspices of the Art Institute of Chicago and the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York City, include many mountain landscapes in the ...
Climbing in Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Rolf Zemp and Alex Clapasson from Switzerland made an ascent of Asgard under winter conditions in early May. On July 19 Canadians John Amatt, Ivan Wambera, Peter Hunter, Bob Rector, Richard Johns...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, TetonsOn August 21, 1980, Jim Detterline (24) and Paul Bolick (28) signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to climb the north face route of the Grand Teton. This is a ...
We had a five-day warm spell followed by a weak cold front for 36 hours prior to the climb. Overnight temperatures had been well below freezing, so the ice was brittle.We climbed the approach pitch to the first ledge. From here we could see the pi...
Kubi Kangri (6,721m), first ascent; glacier measurements. The Kubi Tsangpo Headwaters Expedition 2007, which I headed, made the first ascent of Kubi Kangri, the highest peak in the Kubi Tsangpo headwaters, without the assistance of Sherpas. Our cl...
Chukutan Peak, First Ascent. It was reported that Spaniards J. Bañales, I. Peribañez, C. Reima, L. Tejada, M. Fernandez and J. Mugara had planned to attempt Spantik, but were forced to change objectives due to snow conditions. They climbed Chukuta...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPEDIAMETER TOO SMALLNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RetaliationThe leader, A1 (30s), was climbing and was below the crux at the niche. He had just placed a cam and was yanking on it to test th...
Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. After arriving at Cajatambo by bus, Toni Ponholzer, Dr. Rolf Klett, Erich Grossegger, Mario Bürgen and I took four days to reach Base Camp at Jahuacocha. We then placed a camp at 5250 meters on the Yerupajá Glaci...
EXPOSURE, WEATHER, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyNaomi Uemura (43) was a Japanese explorer and climber who had completed many solo dog sled treks and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. On August 26, 1970, he became the first pe...
Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, First Ascent. In January, twelve climbers from San Juan made attempts to ascend the southern peak of Cerro de la Ramada (c. 5900 meters, or about 19,350 feet). Due to route-finding problems, the attempts had to be aba...
DEHYDRATION–EXHAUSTION, MINOR FROSTBITE, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY-FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, Messner CouloirAt 0500 on June 3, Jan Markup (27), Petr Hoffman (27) from the Czech Republic, and Camelo Lopez from a Colombian-American exped...