FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDNew York, ShawangunksA boy (9) was climbing on the practice rocks when he fell four to five meters to the ground, dislocating his elbow and shoulder. (Source: Brad Snyder)(Editor’s Note: This is the youngest climber r...
Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition. A group of Germans from Traunstein, Karl Brenner, Dietrich von Dobeneck, Otto Huber, Fritz Wagnerberger and Karl Winkler, traveled in late August with a pack train for five days from Jurm in Badakhshan through the...
Thor, West Face Solo. Japanese Yasushi Yamanoi set up camp at the foot of the west face of Mount Thor on May 22 but could not begin his solo attempt on the route until June 20 because of bad weather. He climbed for the next eight days. After compl...
California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak. On 20 December, Grant Trigg (19) and a companion, Schultz, were descending from the summit of Telescope Peak. The two men attempted ice axe glissades over the steep fall-off of the Easter...
Trivor Attempt. Our expedition organized by the Czechoslovak Mountain Federation was led by me and composed of 14 climbers. We went to Nagar by Jeep and continued with 110 porters up the Gharesa valley and the Trivor (Gharesa) Glacier to Base Camp...
Lucania and Steele. We ascended the five-mile-long southeast ridge to Mount Steele (16,644 feet) and then traversed the south face of Steele from 15,000 to 16,000 feet, a rising traverse which took us to the southwest ridge of Steele, from which w...
The Ibex. Mountaineers interested in big game, who find themselves in N. E. Switzerland, should not fail to visit the Peter and Paul Park on the outskirts of St. Gallen, where ibex and chamois are bred for the National Park. The reserve, situated ...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER, OFF ROUTE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 26, 1987, two well-equipped and at least moderately experienced climbers started walking in and camped at Berg Lake. The next day they climbed to about three hour...
Canadian Rockies: Thoughtless Climbing. In July 1948 a party of American climbers left their car parked at the Columbia Icefield chalet and departed for the Icefield without stating their exact destination. Several days later, since they had not r...
Cho Oyu. Our team consisted of Etsuro Hino, Tateo Yamashita, MissTaeko Noda, Takayushi Kawada, Mrs. Mutsuko Okuma, Tsuyoshi Murakai, Miss Masae Okamoto and me as leader. We pitched three camps on the south face of Ngozumba Kang, hoping to climb Ch...
Annapurna I, North Face, New Route, and All 14 8000ers. This spring, Juanito Oyarzabal (or Oiarzabal, as it has sometimes been spelled), a 43-year-old Basque, climbed his 14th 8000er when he ascended Annapurna I (8091 m), the tenth-highest mountai...
Kamet. The name Kamet is more properly Kang-Med, Tibetan meaning “Glacier Fire.” This being the highest peak in the region, it catches the first rays of the rising sun and the last rays of the setting sun, lighting the ice on the top like a huge m...
Koh-e-Kamisktar, Wakhan. Walter Mejak, Fabio Benedetti, Floriane» Tarlao, Nicolò Zuffi and I left Trieste on June 16 and traveled overland to Kabul and Faizabad, where we had to transfer to a hired truck to proceed to Qala Panja nearly at the spot...
Abominable Snow Man Expedition. The Daily Mail’s expedition returned without having achieved their objective of seeing snow men (yeti).
Yerupajá, West Face Attempt. A French expedition failed to climb the west face of Yerupajá because of lack of time, porters and climbers. They got only a few hundred feet up the face. The group was led by Jacques Soubis.
La Catedral, Southeast Face, and Torre Norte del Paine, West Face. Fabio Leoni, Danny Zampiccoli, Paola Fanton, Flavia Menotti and I spent January and February in the Paine region. We placed Base Camp at the foot of the southeast face of La Catedr...
North Howser Tower, Southwest Buttress, “Young Men on Fire,” Bugaboos. After a grueling, multi-day 25-kilometer approach to the base of the 3000-foot-high west face of the North Howser Tower, we looked up the massive face, a classic big wall of si...
SLIP OR FALL ON SNOW, PARTY SEPARATEDWashington, Mount RainierOn January 2, 1991, a three person climbing party consisting of Mark Fogarty (26), Phil Buck (26), and Binget Hanson (24) returned to Camp Muir after successfully climbing Mount Rainier...
Syn Qing Feng XVIII. A Japanese expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu attempted unsuccessfully to climb Sin Qing Feng I. They turned to Syn Qing Feng XVIII (6237 meters, 20,463 feet), which they climbed by its south ridge. On August 18, Tadashi Fukuy...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On June 6, 1955, Victor Milligan (23), a student from Belfast, Ireland, and his companion had been hiking up the Glacier Trail when they came to a point where the trail was still completely covered by snow. T...