On August 20 Nikolay Dobrjaev, Anatoliy Djuliy, Aleksey Kirienko, and Vladimir Leonenko made the first ascent of the nearly 2,500m-high south ridge of Peak Voennih Topografov (Army Topographers, 6,873m) east of Pobeda. They also made the first tra...

Portal to Paradise Pinnacle, White Mesa. Among the many fine photographs included in C. Gregory Crampton’s book Standing Up Country is one of a slender spire tritely named “The Monolith”. In the fall of 1967 Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield and I ascen...

New England Section. Sixty members and guests attended the 12th annual gala dinner on March 22 to share conviviality in the atmosphere of our elegant venue at the Henderson House (the Northeastern University Conference Center) in Weston. On exhibi...

Alpenbock Climbing Club. In January the club sponsored Barry Corbet’s colored slide showing “Assault on Everest.” A turnout of 350 people attended this outstanding program, and proceeds from it were given to the Mount Everest Foundation to help de...

Gasherbrum I, Ascent and Ski Descent. The aim of the expedition was to ski from the summit of Gasherbrum I down the north face of the mountain. Members of the expedition were Janez Golob (leader), Marko Car, Simon Copi, Urban Golob, and Matic Jost...

Table Mountain, East Face, South Buttress. This buttress, one of three prominent on the east side of the flat-topped Table Mountain at the head of the south fork of Cascade Canyon, was attempted on September 8, 1960, by Kenneth Weeks and M. E. Hor...

Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur. My companion, Bas Grenigt, had had a serious operation because of a bicycle accident just before our departure and had trouble keeping going at high altitude. On June 29 we did climb together Rasac Este by its southeas...

The Citadel, The Endless Day. Mike “Twid” Turner, Louise Thomas, Jerry Gore and Shaun Hutson made the first ascent of “The Citadel” in Stewart Valley via their 900-meter route, The Endless Day. (The climbers note that the peak may already have an ...

Sarapo, Northwest Face. A few brief moments under the west face of Siulá convinced Tom Sisson and me that we did not want to play Russian Roulette with our lives on that face. The snow-and-ice northwest face of Sarapo, a short way up the glacier, ...

Selkirks. While doing geology, Hamish Mutch and I climbed most of the peaks in the Fang Creek, Downie Lake, Purity Range and Van Horne Névé areas. Innovations included a new route on Mount Wheeler via the longest ridge from Thor Glacier; new route...

South Fork Ice Routes. In April 1999, while flying over the South Fork near Cody, I discovered a new arena of ice. A day later we began the epic approach, six miles into the Shoshone Wilderness. We named the first and largest amphitheater Garden o...

Banderpunch, Black Peak. Hari Dang led his Doon schoolboys to the Black Peak (20,956 feet) of the Banderpunch group. The peak was climbed on June 14 by Goggi Aggarwala and Sherpa Nima. (First ascent by J.M.T. Gibson and two Sherpas on June 7, 1955...

Aconcagua, South Face. As we go to press, news reaches us of two new ascents on the south face of Aconcagua, previously climbed only by the French expedition of 1954. An Argentine group followed the French route, setting to work on January 5, 1966...

Mount Everest Ski Expedition. There were two Japanese expeditions at the same time on Mount Everest. The ski group were not interested in any attempt on the summit but was rather a publicity stunt for the exposition in Osaka. They lost six Sherpas...

Haramosh, West Ridge. It is reported in Iwa To Yuki of October, 1978 that a five-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Shimakata successfully climbed this new route on Haramosh (24,309 feet). Sumiya Isono, Ryo Nishikori and the leader Shimakata got...

Gimmegela, Third Ascent. It was reported that a 14-man British Services expedition made the third ascent of Gimmegela (7350m) via the southwest ridge. The team (Pat Parsons, leader, Rob Magowan, Tug Wilson, Huan Davies, Nigel Lane Neil Peacock, Bo...

Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. xiii + 145 pages, with frontispiece and map. San Francisco: The Sierra Club, 1934.This is the first comprehensive guide to the High Sierra trails to be published. One...

Peaks above Maligne Lake. Sixty-two members of the Iowa Mountaineers attended a summer camp in the Maligne Lake area. Base Camp was at the south end of the lake at the mouth of Coronet Creek. Eleven peaks were ascended; the following new routes we...

Notch Peak is 60 miles west of Delta, Utah, at the south end of the House Range. The 2,500-foot-high limestone north face was first climbed by Thomas Koch and Peter Diener Jr. in June. The route ascended right of center to a prominent chimney, mos...

Junction Peak, North Buttress. A late winter attempt on the north buttress of Junction Peak by John Rupley and me was frustrated by stormy conditions, although the long trek via Kearsarge Pass brought us to the foot of serious climbing. The buttre...