UNITED STATESLOSS OF CONTROL - VOLUNTARY GLISSADEAlaska, Suicide PeakWilliam Parlier (36) fractured his right fibula as a result of losing control of his voluntary glissade while descending from the summit of South Suicide Peak. He was at the 1300...
Mt. Babel, East Face, Free Ascent. In August, John Culberson and I made the first American ascent of the East Face of Mt. Babel in the Canadian Rockies. This grade IV limestone wall has seen few ascents overall, and fewer yet as a free route. It w...
Dronning Louise Land, New Routes. A British group led by Scott Umpleby traveled out to the airstrip at Constable Pynt, from where they were due to fly on by Twin Otter up to the Dronning Louise Land mountains at latitude 76° N. The chartered airpl...
Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, enchainment. After warming-up with a difficult new route on the northeast face of the Bear Tooth (report below) and a rapid free attempt of Mt. Hunter’s Moonflower Buttress (retreat above the Bibler Come Again E...
Makalu. Our members were Fausto De Stefani, Fabio Stedile, Almo Giam- bisi, Spaniard Juanju José San Sebastián and I as leader. We got to Base Camp at 5400 meters on August 30. We reconnoitered the south spur of Makalu but there was too much snow ...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. We stayed in Patagonia from December 2, 1998, to February 16, 1999. In this time we climbed the following peaks: Cerro Solo, December 8; Aguja Guillaumet, Via Amy, December 20, in seven hours from Paso Superi...
Czechoslovakian Everest Attempt. A Czechoslovakian expedition of 23 climbers was led by Ivan Gálfy. They had hoped to make two new routes on the southwest face of Everest but early on it was decided not to attempt them because four of the stronges...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth Century, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8vo., 83 pages and numerous illustrations. New York: American Alpine Club, 1943. Issued for the membership. Sale copies limited; $2.00.This slender volume...
Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores. This 5,571m mountain in Salta is a minor summit in the Chañi massif (5,896m), Argentina. Its incredible south wall has been a dream for many generations of Argentine climbers. Argentines Humberto Vázquez, Fernando Gutié...
DISLOCATED ANKLE WHILE RAPPELLING California, Joshua Tree National MonumentRichard Riley (22) dislocated his right ankle on October 25,1986, on Cyclops Rock, near Hidden Valley campground, while rappelling down the west face of the rock formation....
Lukpe La Brakk Tragedy. A six-person group of the South Wales Mountaineering Club came in July to Snow Lake of the Biafo-Hispar Glacier region, hoping to climb there. Dave Parsons had altitude problems and left with his wife. After Bob Williams wa...
McArthur Peak, South Face. On June 1, Paul Gonzales, Fred Beckey, Mark Landreville and I were dropped on the Hubbard Glacier at the landing site for Logan’s east ridge. The following day we sledded loads up-glacier to set up a camp just east of Mc...
Anye Maqin IX. On September 5, Martin Hampar, Michael and Catherine Pettipher, Ben Williams and I established Base Camp at 4200 meters in the main valley about a quarter mile beyond the large stream descending from the east face of Anye Maqin I. O...
Ama Dablam, Possible Variation and Traverse. Ama Dablam (6812m) attracted 12 expeditions in the spring, 11 of which attempted the standard Southwest Ridge route. Of the only three that succeeded, one, from New Zealand, went up an exceptional way. ...
Mount lliamna, Chigmit Mountains, Aleutian Range. During the week of June 1 to 7 Helga Bading, Erik Barnes, Gregg Erickson, and I made the first ascent of Mount Iliamna (10,016 feet), following two unsuccessful attempts by other parties in 1958. T...
Arwa Tower, new route. A Swiss expedition led by Frederic Roux climbed the north face and the east ridge of Arwa Tower in 17 hours on October 7. The summit was reached by the leader with Gabriel Basson and Benoit Jean-Paul Darbellay. They had exce...
Kedar Dome. A 13-member Indian team was led by Babban Prasad Singh. On September 7, four members and three high-altitude porters set out from Camp II at 6250 meters. Three of the members gave up but Sudhir Kumar Mahto and the porters continued on ...
Gasherbrum III (7,952m), second ascent. On June 17 Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki, and I arrived at Gasherbrum base camp; we wanted to attempt G-IV by the northeast original route, but by July 12 we were tired of the bad weather and the deep track...
Chumathang, Mahadev and Chokul, Eastern Ladakh. A 16-member Indian Army team led by Lieutenant Colonel J.N. Goel left Leh on July 26. They set up two camps beyond Base Camp. Nine members climbed Chumathang (20,300 feet) and another six climbed Mah...
Lobuje Southeast, Southeast Face, 1992. A Korean team led by Kim Jae-Soo made what is probably a new route on the 750-meter-high southeast face of the southeast summit (c. 5970 meters) of Lobuje East. They made two unsuccessful attempts on Septemb...