Angel Wings, South Face, “Hell on Wings.” In July, Richard Leversee, Kim Grandfield and I climbed this route, located on the same pillar as the Rowell- Jones route. It follows a bold crack system just left of the aforementioned route and consists ...
Sixty-First Annual Report of the American Alpine ClubThis is the sixty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. At the time of publication, narratives and data from Canada were not available. However, one report was sent forward ...
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq and Ketil, first ascents. Eight young French climbers on their first expedition were in the area from the end of June to early August. Jérôme Masoundabe, Benoît Montfort, Magali Salle and Rémy Sifilio, all from the ...
Pukarashta Group and Pukahirca Sur and Tragedy. Above an Alpamayo Base Camp in the Arhueikocha Quebrada is the long Pukahirka-Pukarashta ridge, which had remained untouched from the south until a British team climbed five lines on it in June. Aust...
An Ascent of Mt. Albert EdwardRichard ArchboldWE arrived at Port Moresby, the capital of Papua, in the beginning of February, 1933. Papua is the southeast section of New Guinea, being owned by Australia. We spent a couple of months getting house-b...
Northern and Central Cordillera Real, various new routes. Nick Flyvbjerg (New Zealand) and Erik Monasterio spent six weeks exploring the central and northern Real. They first visited the Chekapa (Chikapa) Valley, east of the Negruni and north of t...
Ascents in the Cascades. In the spring of 1957 we completed some interesting new routes. On the sheer face of Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon, which rises several hundred feet above the main highway near Leavenworth, Washington, Fred Beckey, John R...
JOHN M. WATERMAN 1952-1981In April John disappeared while attempting a solo climb of the east buttress of Mount McKinley. Crevasses were common on the route, and other climbers reported a period of frequent avalanches.John was a climber of great n...
Yosemite Climbing, 1991-1993. Some climbs done in past years were not lecorded and so this reflects not only climbs in 1993 but some earlier ones. Eric Kohl, who has never publicized any of his climbs, recently reported to Mountain Review the best...
Istor-O-Nal, Northeast Summit, Attempt. Ten members of the Neuchatel Section of the Swiss Alpine Club attempted the unclimbed northeast summit (7276m) of Istor-O-Nal from the north. The only known previous attempt on this mountain was made by a Ja...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, North CascadesOn June 22,1986, Bob Richards (36) and I (36) had just climbed the West Ridge of Triad and were descending. We were off the pinnacle and could have descended a long easy route back to the hig...
Opportunities on Mount McKinleyBradford WashburnThere Are few pastimes more interesting to a desk-bound mountaineer than studying maps and pictures in search of new routes—even if it is evident that the chances are very low of trying any of them y...
Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. The members of a French expedition to Everest were Jean-Franck Charlet, leader, René Ghilini, Jacques Fouques, Guy Abert, Michel Flouret and Bruno Gouvy. They attempted to climb the south buttress but could reach only...
P 8815 and P 8798, Niut Range. On January 29 Kreig McBride and I made the first winter ascents of P 8815 and P 8798. The latter lies east of the former and both are due west of Tatlayoko’s northern end. We climbed from an igloo camp in the basin i...
Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak, first ascent; Zograf Peak, first ascent. Lyaskovets (62°39'48.5" S, 60°08'34.7" W) is a peak of elevation 1,473 m in the 30km-long Tangra Mountains situated on Livingston Island. It is bounded by Catalunyan Saddl...
The Nepalese-American Gaurishankar ExpeditionAl ReadALONG THE UTTERLY wild and vaguely defined Himalayan frontier between Nepal and Tibet rise the massive twin summits of Gaurishankar. One of the most beautiful and formidable mountains in the worl...
A Yob’s-Eye View of the Quimsa CruzRoger Whewell, Rucksack ClubI AM A YOB.1 Thus the height of aesthetic achievement is to drive to the foot of the cliff and overcome the crux by trampolining off the seat of one’s motorcycle. In fact with careful ...
Fanskiye Gory and Turkestanski Ranges. Nine Americans climbed in two mountain ranges in the Soviet Union in 1987. Carla Firey, Tom Hargis, Matt Kerns, Frith Maier, Jim McCarthy, Dan McNerthney, Jim Phillips and Bill Sumner from Seattle and I from ...
Our plan was to repeat existing routes but also climb new ones in the Kara-su valley. For our new route we chose the east face of the nameless tower directly opposite Asan; its altitude is ca 4,000m. [This wall is now known as the Silver Wall.] We...
In Highest Nepal: Our Life Among the Sherpas, by Norman Hardie. London: Allen and Unwin, 1957. 191 pages; ills.; maps. Price 21s.This book is the account of living with Sherpas in the high Nepalese valleys of Solo Khumbu, just south of Mount Evere...