FALL ON ROCK, ROCKSLIDEColorado, Mount Wilson, El Diente TraverseDuring the morning of July 26, a group of seven climbers were traversing the ridge between Mount Wilson (14,246 feet) and El Diente (14,159 feet) peaks, one of Colorado’s four classi...
Atomfjella Mountains, new Slovenian routes. This was my third Svalbard expedition. There were so many things I had to learn about Arctic logistical problems and the secrets of these cold mountains. The experience you gain in Svalbard is unique, an...
RAPPEL FAILURE AND CLUB CLIMB SUPERVISION—Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak. On 7 September 1974, an 11-member Seattle Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course Experience Climb ascended the east ridge of Chair Peak in good weather, and continued t...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, COOKING IN TENT WITH NOVENTILATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 27, 1993, Czech Republic climber Lubomir Tesar (33) required evacuation from the 17,200 foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. His expedition,...
—10 ... The Sports of Winter. Ninety plates by Samivel. 4 to.Paris. Delagrave, 1933. Price Fr. 25.The author, who has already depicted the pleasures of Alpinism in a nerve-shattering volume, now turns his attention to the social and technical aspe...
Kangtega, east pillar, first ascent, winter ascent. The most interesting climb of the winter 2001-02 season was a new line followed by a trio of Frenchmen on Kangtega, 6779m, a peak in the Everest region southwest of Ama Dablam. Christophe Profit,...
Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m), attempt. Our Indo-American-British expedition included Indians Chewang Motup (co-leader), Dhan Singh, Kon- chok Tinles, and Tsering Sherpa; Americans Steve Swenson, Mark Wilford, and I (co-leader); and Brit...
International Mountain Rescue Handbook, by Hamish Maclnnes. New York: Scribner’s, 1973. 224 pages, 150 photographs, 130 drawings and diagrams, $10.00.*For years I thought of mountain rescue as an unfortunate necessity— as something that a group of...
Between July 15 and September 3 the Federacion Espanola de Deportes de Montana y Escalada (FEDME) organized two expeditions to the Hushe Valley. The first was an all-male team of Silvestre Barrientos, Mikel Bonilla, Alex Corpas, and Martin Elias, ...
The State of the ArtFive ranges, five viewsIt is all too easy to proclaim a route done today as the best route a particular area or a particular discipline has seen. Many factors contribute to this: media pressures that encourage the use of superl...
“Peak Giorgio,”first ascent, Amico Gio. Our expedition comprised Giuseppe Bonfante, Antonio Valerio Carrota, Silvano Colombo, Andrea Corti, Angelo Gnecchi, Giovanni Mazzoleni, Nerino Panzeri, Simone Ripamonte, Giampaolo Schiavo, Dario Valsecchi, ...
Number of Accidents RepottedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Angel Falls, Estrella Fugaz*. A team of three climbers from Salt Lake City (Will Hair, Jose Pereyra and Scott Lazar) made the first free ascent of the 3,000-foot wall that creates Angel Falls on Auyan Tepui in Southern Venezuela. The route, Estrel...
Khan Tengri, Attempt, Tragedy, and New Route. It was reported that Yuri Krasnoukhov was attempting the standard route on Khan Tengri in mid-August, 1997, and while climbing from the CIII ice cave to the summit fell down the south flank and died. D...
The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails. R.J. Secor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA, 1992. 368 pages. Black-and-white photos and maps. $19.95.R.J. Secor contributes, with this latest guide to the Sierra Nevada, new climbing routes gleaned from v...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Chair PeakIn conjunction with the above accident, two Mountain Rescue Council volunteers were injured in attempting to recover the body. Following is the account from a letter by Paul Williams:“We departed the road at 11 p....
Yosemite Valley, 1983. Here is a list of some of the new routes climbed in Yosemite last year. Due to the large number of excellent climbers who visit Yosemite from so many different areas, the list is by no means complete. Arch Rock Area. Up and ...
Dhaulagiri I, Ascent. On September 13, an expedition of 13 members from St. Petersburg, Russia, left for the mountains. Ten days later they pitched Base Camp at 4700 meters. It was decided to climb the summit by the classical route up the northeas...
The Triplets. In early November Jim Nelson and I climbed the left gully on the north face of the Triplets near Cascade Pass in winter-like conditions. We underestimated it, started after first light and packed no bivy gear. The climb offered all t...
Mt. Whitney, If at First.… We began this route on the east face of Mt. Whitney in 1999, with 14-year-old Scott Thelan. We sat in a tent in the rain for 36 hours and got back on the face only to have the clouds come in. We accomplished one pitch be...