The first climb of this face was done on October 20, 1974 by Walt Vennum, Phil Warrender, and me; the route is on the right side (long side) of the face, near where it corners to the south. The route is all face climbing, much on small holds, with...
Andes: The first mountaineering hut in the Andes was opened at Easter of this year with due formality by the Deutsche Ausflug Vereine of Santiago and Valpariso. The hut, called “Lo Valdes,” the construction of which was made possible by a subventi...
Cerro Balmaceda, west face, possible new route. In February 2002 Spaniards Iñaki San Vicente and Carlos Garcia de Cortazar made what appears to be the second, or perhaps third, ascent of this beautiful 2,035m peak, which lies at the northern end o...
Makalu, Ascent of the West Pillar and Tragedy. A Spanish expedition led by Carles Vallès was further composed of Manu Badiola, Joan Jover, Gerardo Blásquez and Dr. Rafael Martínez. During a period of 50 days, the group worked its way up the very d...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, AND EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksWe received fourteen reports from this climbing area for the year 2007.Most of the falling accidents were ...
Pik Kommunizma and Other Peaks, Pamirs. Our group consisted of Jim Bock, Ken Nolan, Chuck Huss and me. We first came to the Achik-Tash Camp at 3600 meters and then were flown to the Moskvin Base Camp at 4200 meters. The first day we climbed to set...
Caballero Primero and Yanco, Cordillera Raura. In July I led a very small group to the southern Raura range, in which we found much deep snow. We ascended Caballero Primero (5045 meters, 16,550 feet) and Nevado Yanco (5168 meters, 16,955 feet). Th...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Adriano Cavallaro, Diego Giovanella, Gianni Berta and Enrico Marazzi went north from Paso Marconi, on skis pulling sleds, heading for the Glaciar Jorge Montt (the place from which those tryi...
Indian Expedition to Mount Everest. The principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Brigadier Gyan Singh, led an expedition of 13 climbing and 7 non-climbing members to Mount Everest. On May 9 Ang Temba and A. B. Jungalwala established Ca...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffIn May, a climber was injured by rockfall on the upper part of Union Jack on Cannon. Other climbers have reported loose rock on Cannon, including on the Whitney- Gilman arete, Fugue, and Vertigo. Routes on Ca...
Foraker, 1975. In late June, 1975 Rob Muir, leader, Rob Dellinger, Jim Hoagland, Steve West, Ken Cook, Larry Dunmire, Greg Sapp and I were flown to the southwest fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. From the southern cirque we planned to ferry our equipm...
Washington, Mount Adams. On February 3rd Keith Edwards (age 24) and Dwain Hess (19) established a base camp below Goat Butte at the foot of Mt. Adams. Their purpose was to scout the area for a later climb by a larger group, possibly up the Rusk Gl...
Nun Attempts. A number of expeditions to Nun this year failed to reach the summit. These included Netherlanders led by R.D. West, Taiwanese led by Gau Ming-Ho, British led by Patrick Littlejohn, Japanese led by Ryozo Takenami and French led by J.M...
Hallett’s Peak. On July 27 Yvon Chouinard and Ken Weeks started up the north face of the third buttress. Instead of climbing the prominent chimney, we went straight up the face and rejoined the regular route at the next to the last patch. No direc...
OFF ROUTE, STRANDED, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 1, 1994, a party of two were overdue on the East Ridge route of Mt. Temple (3544 meters). A search was initiated and they were located below the Black Tower...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, Kinshofer Route, First British Ascent. Ours was a small expedition consisting of Ghazala Ahmad, my wife and expedition doctor, David Walsh and me. Also with us were Kevin Higgins and Ian Hilton during our acclimatization...
East Face of Longs Peak, Diamond, From August 25 to 27 Mike Covington and I made a new route on the Yellow Wall to the left of "Diamond-7,” which we called the "Curving Vine” because of the abundance of green plants in the long curving dihedral we...
Aq Task. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition was led by Indian Hukam Singh and me. After arriving at Base Camp at 4800 meters on July 18, we established Camp I at 5600 meters on the Yangbar Glacier on July 21. From there, the eight Indians headed for...
High Adventure, by Bob and Ira Spring. Text by Norma and Patricia Spring. 128 pages, 150 illustrations. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1951. Price, $8.50.The cover of High Adventure states that it is by “America’s Outstanding Mountain Photograp...
Yugoslavian-American Exchange Program. Yugoslavian climbers, Borut Bergant and Iztok Tomanzin, visited the United States for 38 days. This was an exchange program between the American Alpine Club and the Yugoslavian Alpine Organization. (Komisija ...