Pik Lenin, Pik Kommunizma and. Other Peaks on Skis, Pamir Mountains. Our best skier of the extreme, Pavol Rajtar, made several first ski descents in the Pamir Mountains. After several acclimatization climbs, on July 20 he climbed Pik Shatayeva (57...
Starlight Peak, West Buttress. From the Palisade Basin, one can see imme diately left (north) of the prominent west-facing wall on the North Palisade a large triangular buttress. The top of the buttress joins a narrow ridge which leads to the summ...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The Club did not hold its annual summer climbing camp as such in 1967, but was the prime organizer of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition, in celebration of Canada’s Centenary, which in the end combined the Club’s sum...
Chobutse, Rolwaling Valley. The members of our expedition were Michaela Wegert, Gustav and Klaus Harder, Peter Vogler and I as leader. On April 8 we finally ascended the upper Rolwaling Khola from Beding to the high alpine meadow, Nangaon, and som...
Cordillera Vilcabamba, various ascents. In 2004 Canadians Conny Amelunxen and Neil Maedel visited the eastern end of the Pumasillo group, climbing the small peaks, north of Totora, that form the end of the long curving ridge running generally east...
Annapurna II Attempt. On April 2 a three-man Japanese expedition led by Kunihiko Kondo reached a high point of 6000 meters on a new route on Annapurna II’s south face. Kondo Masatoshi Yoshino and Toshiro Yamada deposited supplies there and returne...
Stonehouse Buttress, Southeast Face. The Milky Way Chimney, a new route on Stonehouse Buttress, was done on April 29 and 30 by Jack Roberts, Hooman Aprin, and me. The nine-pitch route duplicates a previously established route on the southeast face...
TOBIN SORENSON 1955-1980On the mountain He will destroy the covering that is cast over all peoples, the veil that is spread over all nations. He will swallow up death forever, and the Lord God will wipe away tears from all faces.Isaiah 25:07Tobin ...
OLIVER PERRY-SMITH1884-1969Our Honorary Member, Oliver Perry-Smith, died quickly and peacefully at his son’s home in Denver, Colorado on May 13. He was originally a Philadelphian, of distinguished ancestry, but from 1902 until the outbreak of Worl...
Chichicapac, north ridge; Mamacapac, first ascent; Cornice, south ridge. Mike Cocker, Jonathan Preston, and I arrived in Peru on June 14 and spent a week acclimatizing and buying essentials before arriving at base camp (a four-hour walk with donke...
Bandarpunch Group. An Indian expedition was composed of Dr. S.B.L. Sharma, Ram Chander Bhardwaj, Ashok Kumar Gupta, Chandra Sekhar, Amarjit Singh, Baljit Singh and Sudhir Upadhyay. All reached the top of Kala Nag (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) in mid ...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INCOMPATIBLE PARTNERS–POOR COMMUNICATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeBruce Penn (43) and A1 Hancock (44) departed White River to climb Liberty Ridge on June 13. It took them three days to reach the base. O...
Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939Joseph P. PREMFirst Ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz, ca. 5600 m. (18,372 ft.)THE little Santa Vela Cruz Group lies directly S. of the Quimza Cruz Range, being separated from the same by the Tres Cruces Pa...
Misadventures Below ZeroUp against it in Antarcticaby Erik Decamptranslated by Marina Heusch“Are you okay?”“I’ve broken my leg. Open fracture.”“Merde.”Catherine has fallen some 20 meters on a slope of snow mixed with rocks. I ask the question in t...
April 2008: I’m eating dinner with Benoît Robert, who has just returned from a skiing and sailing trip to the Lyngen Alps. He shows me his pictures of Stovelen, a steep 850m face rising straight out of the sea and laced with thin lines. I’m immedi...
Table III1951-861959-8619871987USACANUSACANTerrainRock ... 237829615013Snow ... 14072433610Ice ... 1084862River .... 12300Unknown ; .... 18600Ascent or DescentAscent : ; ... 20793071448Descent : . ... 14262094516Unknown : ... 2284131I...
Yukshin Gardan Sar, First Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Pakistanis Mohamed Yaseen Siddiqi, Ahmed Bareed and Ibrahim Taufail, and Austrians Willi Bauer, Dr. Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker, Reinhard Streif and me as leader. On May 18 we ...
Cho Oyu, Autumn Ascents and Attempt. Cho Oyu is a very popular climb. It is ascended mostly by the west ridge and the west face, regardless of whether the climbers approach from the Nepalese or the Tibetan side. There were two successful Spanish a...
FALL ON ROCKUtah, Zion National Park, Moonlight ButtressEarly on the afternoon of March 24th, a climber (40) who was following the first pitch of the Moonlight Buttress took an unexpectedly long pendulum swing, struck the rock wall, and sustained ...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Gerald Itkin, scheduled 266 climbs, including 16 in winter. The Basic Climbing Committee, headed by Dave Sauerbrey, enrolled participants into groups of nine with about four instructors for each grou...