While climbing a new route on Palung Ri in 2006 (AAJ 2007), I looked at the possibility of a new route on the northwest face of Pt. 7,570m, directly opposite. In 2011 I was on Cho Oyu, guiding a group on the Normal Route. On a day off I studied Pt...

Peaks 10,630' and 10,150', Possible New Routes. On May 7, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Chisana Glacier at 8,400 feet. Taking advantage of the good weather, I set up camp and immediately started skiing toward the base o...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn October 5 at 1245, John Jay Leach (23) fell to his death while climbing up cliffs above Amphitheater Lake. He fe...

The Love of Mountains Is Best. Robert H. Bates. Peter Randall, 1994. 473 pages, 150 photos. $35.00.On a high rock of the Swiss Alp, Niesen, an early Greek climber inscribed: “The love of mountains is best.” And so Bob Bates has entitled his unpret...

Grand Canyon National Park, Comanche Point, Comanche Ridge. In November 2000, while hiking the Escalante Route, I couldn’t take my eyes off the long skinny arete ascending from Tanner Rapids on the Colorado River all the way to the Grand Canyon’s ...

Mount Dickey’s South FaceFabio Leoni, Club Alpino ItalianoAFTER LEAVING ITALY, we first visited for some training climbs the Yosemite, where the weather was bad: snowy and cold. Manica, Zampiccoli and I did manage to climb El Capitan by the Triple...

Fairweather. Mount Fairweather (15,320 feet), one of the official boundary points on the Alaska-British Columbia border, is actually the highest point in British Columbia. Since it had never been climbed by Canadians, its second ascent was logical...

TABLE IV ResultsStateNumber of Persons LocatedNumber of Persons RescuedNumber of Bodies RecoveredArizona886California51469Colorado40225Montana320Oregon1370Washington221911Wyoming030TOTAL13710731As statistical reporting becomes routine and more com...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 29, 1982, two climbers (22 and 21) called for help from the Iron Hawk route on El Capitan. An assessment of the situation revealed that one of them had injured his...

Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents. The Cumbria East Greenland Expedition members (Steve Brailey, Pete Dawson, Jeff Haslam, Chris Cookson, Ian Cousins, Colin Dulson, Gwyn Lewis, Dave Wilson, and Keith Miller) flew from Glasgow to Iceland and then by...

New Mexico, Shiprock. On 16 April Robert Schroeder (20), Robert Schlichting, William Heatley, and Gray Dixon were descending Shiprock after a successful ascent. William Heatley submits the following report: The weather was excellent and climbing c...

Broken Tooth, Before the Dawn; Mt. Hunter, Deprivation, third ascent. In April the Giri-Giri Boys (Fumitaka Ichimura, Tatsuro Yamada, Yuki Satoh, and I) tried various lines around the Buckskin Glacier. Tatsuro and Yuki tried the east side of the M...

Aconcagua, Ski Descent and Speed Ascent. Eric Soulié and I on November 21 had tried to ski down the Glaciar de los Polacos route on Aconcagua. After we had descended 400 meters, we found unskiable ice and so climbed back up to the summit. The next...

Early Chapters in the History oe Mt. McKinleyThe great explorer-navigator George Vancouver in 1794 sailed up Cook’s Inlet and saw “stupendous snow mountains covered with snow and apparently detached from each other.” This is the first written reco...

This is the twenty-first report of the Safety Committee and the eighth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from accidents that occurred in former years and not previously reported have been incorporated in the statistical table.Att...

The Western Rib of Mount McKinley’s South Face*William J. BuckinghamThe little red and yellow airplane disappeared around a bend of the Kahiltna Glacier for the last time. As the hum of its motor faded and the deep silence of the mountains settled...

To the Peaks of ElzivirJ. Monroe Thorington“I love to lose myself in other men’s minds. When I am not walking, I am reading ; I cannot sit and think. Books think for me.”—Charles Lamb.LIKE the Alpines of Tarascon my bookshelves are neither very di...

Mt. Cheam, northwest face. Mt. Cheam, at the north end of the Cheam Range, rises 2,100m above the Fraser River. Its north face was first climbed in the 1970s as a summer route, and Cheam became semipopular for winter climbing in the 1980s. In 1987...

Liberty Bell and South Early Winter Spire. On August 16 and 17, Keith Hertel and I completed the first free ascent of the Independence Route. During the summer of 1990, with Bruce Anderson we had climbed the first six pitches, which were enjoyable...

On Friday June 18, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove ten hours through the night to meet JR in the Robson parking lot. Earlier in the year I’d pulled a tendon pulley in my middle finger, and ...