Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number ofTotalAccidentsReportedPersonsInvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...


Book Reviews AAJ
East Coast Rock Climbs

East Coast Rock Climbs. John Harlin III. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 397 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, maps. $22.00 (paper).This is the third volume of John Harlin’s ambitious Climber’s Guide to North America series. It pr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Borkoldoy Range, Central Borkoldoy, Pik Tansovsitsa, North Ridge; Alpinistka, West Ridge; Pik Koldunia, South Ridge; "Pik Borkoldoy," South Ridge

Central Borkoldoy, Pik Tansovsitsa, north ridge; Alpinistka, west ridge; Pik Koldunia, south ridge; “Pik Borkoldoy” south ridge. The central area of the Borkoldoy Range in southeast Kyrgyzstan is a collection of superb alpine peaks, which are well...


Club Activities AAJ
Mazamas

Mazamas. The climbing school has become one of the most important programs of the Mazamas and was improved greatly this past year; 447 people registered for the course. The school is open to the public as well as to Mazamas. Bill Oberteuffer direc...


Accident Reports ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-19901991Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsTotalTotalDeathsPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta2617657415540British Columbia229894965126Yukon Territory292563000Ontario27650000Quebec21549000East Arctic7220...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Abi Gamin Ascent and Tragedy

Abi Gamin Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of the Indian Corps of Engineers was led by Captain S.B. Vajramati. They set up Base Camp at Vasundahara Lake on September 12 and Camps I and II on the east Kamet Glacier at 6045 and 6450 meters. Camps I...


Book Reviews AAJ
South Platte Rock Climbing and the Garden of the Gods

South Platte Rock Climbing and the Garden of the Gods. Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 292 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, maps. $19.95 (paper).Time was when most climbers would keep local crags ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Western Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt

Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) via the Diamir Face. They reached the standard base camp on December 3 and established Camp 1 on the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park. The 1996 spring and summer season in the Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park proved to be one of the most productive mountaineering periods ever for Ultima Thule clients, personnel and friends. In early April, Ru...


Feature Article AAJ
Beyond the Skyline

Beyond the SkylineAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndHALFWAY between the main transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad and the northeast arm of Upper Arrow Lake stand the ramparts of the Battle Range. This remote, uncharted and almost legendar...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Karjiang Attempt, Taptol Kangroi and Kangmi Kangri First Ascents

Karjiang attempt, Taptol Kangri and Kangmi Kangri first ascents. During the post monsoon season Rudolf van Aken, Pepijn Bink, Court Haegens, Willem Horstmann, Rein-Jan Koolwijk, and I attempted the first ascent of Karjiang South (7221m), the highe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Annapurna South (7,219m), East Pillar Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal

In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of the central pillar on the east face of Annapurna South. His route, completed in early April, tops out more or less at the ca 7,100m no...

| Published N/A | Author Lindsay Griffin


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Erie Practice Bluff

Washing ton, Mt. Erie Practice Bluff—On March 24, four members of The Mountaineers on a practice jaunt to Mt. Erie, decided to attempt the chute that can be seen from the road as a large crack in the main cliffs on the south side of the mountain. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor Equipment, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAbout 1800 on July 31, Ik Tae Choi (23) died in a fall on the East Ledges descent route on El Capitan. Choi led 5.11, A3 and had six years climbing exper...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Accidents in American Mountaineering, Thirteenth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club, 1960

This is the thirteenth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Only those accidents that occurred in the United States of America are included. In addition to the accidents of 1959, this report includes those reports of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock, Inadequate Protection, Quebec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire Route

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONQuébec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire RouteOn May 31, M.L. (33), with six years of climbing experience, and C.M. were attempting Dame Noire (5.8). M.L. was leading in a dihedral, six meters above his second and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Panzang Region, Chamar Kang, Probable First Ascent

Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese explorer Ekai Kawaguchi, a seven-member Osaka Yamanokai (Osaka Alpine Club) party, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi, arrived at Tink...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Ascents

Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Ascents. Italians Michele Guerrini and Diego Stefani climbed the Goretta Pillar via the Cassarotto route with the Kearney variation on November 15, 1995. It is unclear whether they merely reached the top of the pillar or co...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Cliff near Virginia Dale

Colorado, Cliff near Virginia Dale. On April 23, Charles Blackmon (26), Merle Ihne (18), and five other University of Wyoming students were participating in a practice rescue and rock evacuation exercise in a granite canyon near Virginia Dale. It ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Enchainment

Zion, Enchainment. It was reported that in April, Mike Pennings and Jeff Hollenbaugh linked the routes Touchstone Wall, Space Shot, Monkeyfinger Wall and Moonlight Buttress in 18 hours, free climbing through 5.11 and simul-climbing much of the ter...