Ronti. A ladies’ expedition to Ronti (19,893 feet) was organized at my residence and my wife, Mrs. Sujaya Guha, accompanied the team as manager. The other members were Misses Deepali Sinha, leader, Sudipta Sen Gupta, Lakshmi Pal, Swapna Nandy, Swa...
Manaslu Attempt. A South Korean expedition was led by Kim Ho Sup. They attempted the northeast side, by which the Japanese had made the first ascent in 1956. As the leader, his brother Kim Ki Sup and three Sherpas were making a summit attempt, Kim...
Guan Nelda I and II. An Indian expedition led by Bishnu Prasad Roy in August climbed Guan Nelda I (6303 meters, 20,680 feet) and Guan Nelda II (6157 meters, 20,200 feet). The summits were reached by B. Banerjee and S. Biswas and two high-altitude ...
Staunings Alps. The Cambridge Staunings Expedition consisted of K.J. Miller, leader, A.W. Billinghurst, E.W. Smith and me. We arrived in Greenland on July 9, at Mesters Vig airstrip via Reykjavik in Iceland. The approach to the heart of the Stauni...
Cerro Punta Negra, South Face, 1990. On December 9, 1990, Christian Buracchio and I climbed the beautiful ice couloir at the right side of the south face to the summit ridge and summit (4090 meters, 13,419 feet). The good ice was angled at 45° to ...
Shani, Naltar Valley. Guy Muhlemann and I, members of our Scots expedition, on August 14 reached the summit of Shani (5800 meters, 19,029 feet), near Gilgit, in the Karakoram. Base Camp was situated at 3750 meters below the east side of the mounta...
Colorado—North face of ridge between Twin Thumbs and Peak 11, Needle Mountains: On 26 July 1953, Barry Bishop (21), Walt Bailey (35), and Phyllis Anderson (25) were returning from a successful ascent of theTwin Thumbs. At about 4:30 p.m. they set ...
Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District. In October, Jon Burnham and Bill Duncan climbed Chortler’s Joy (II, 5.9, Al, 3 pitches) on Candlestick Spire by first the west and then the north face. Jim Bodenhamer and Al Torrisi made the f...
Lone Pine Peak, South Face, Land of Little Rain. As you sit by the Stone House, an old building at the end of Tuttle Creek trail, the south face of Lone Pine Peak looms above you. This mile-wide and 3,000-foot-high wall is one of many great Sierra...
CB 13. This peak (6264 meters, 20,550 feet) was climbed by its north ridge on August 18 by T. Itsumi, T. Yairi and two high-altitude porters. The other member was leader Yukio Matsukuma.
Kamet and Abi Gamin. This massif is the goal each year of a number of Indian expeditions trying the normal route. In 1992, Kamet and Abi Gamin were the objectives of at least five parties. One is described below. A group from Durgapur led by Swapa...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Rumney Cliff, Holderness School CrackOn July 3, I was leading Holderness School Crack, which I have climbed at least 20 times and led (in fact I led it before the accident). I scrambled onto the le...
Canada: Many thanks to Rod Plasman for compiling last year’s accident information.The number of accidents that occurred in 1999 was average in comparison to previous years. There was a noticeable increase in the number of accidents that occurred w...
Slovene Kangchenjunga ExpeditionTone Škarja and Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza SlovenijeŠkarja begins:THE OBJECTIVES OF OUR EXPEDITION were three-pronged. We hoped to ascend several of the summits of Kangchenjunga from the west primarily by alread...
A First Ascent on the North Face ot Hallett PeakRay NorthcuttAT four a.m., on the morning of July 28, 1956, a shrill wail pierced the brisk mountain air at Emerald Lake, Colorado. On this particular morning, however, being awakened by an alarm clo...
New Mexico Rocky Mountains: In late October 1947, two girl secretaries from Los Alamos lost their lives on an icy slope of Truchas Peak (13,275 ft.), New Mexico’s highest mountain. One was 34 years old, the other 35. Having climbed the peak, they ...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Membership in our organization remained at about 350 members. The club maintained its past tradition of offering hiking and low-key climbing trips to members, mostly during the summer months. Training in the areas of...
Colorado, Cliff near Tunnel 3, U.S. 6. On February 2, Kenneth Cooper (16), a member of a Boy Scout group, was climbing alone. He walked up to a downward sloping ledge that ended in an abrupt cliff. As he traversed the ledge his foot slipped and he...
The Last Of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn,Americas Boldest Mountaineer. David Roberts. William Morrow, 2009. 352 pages. Hardcover. $25.99.I never understood Bradford Washburn.Or rather, I never understood his place in the ...
AAC, New England Section. Owing to the conjunction of the AAC’s national meeting in Boston with our Section’s Eighth Annual Dinner, we deferred the Eighth Annual for a year, putting our energies into the national gathering.In June we offered a coo...