The Salathé Wall SoloPETER HAANWITH so much history and poppycock tales about the Salathé Wall, a solo of it might seem outrageous and desperate. But it wasn’t that way at all. Climbing stories and the climbing imagination in their new hyperactivi...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn October 12 at 1600, I received a call from Barbara Lachmar of Logan, UT, who stated that her husband Tom Lachmar (45) had not returned from a climbing trip to the Tet...
What may have been the first new Cascade alpine route of the 2009 summer season came on June 26, with Wayne Wallace and Steph Abegg climbing Twin Needles in the Southern Pickets (Thread of Ice, III AI3). On July 22 Kurt Hicks and Forest McBrian di...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (1) Mt. Shuksan. On 7 August 1948 R. Koenig (18), K. Barr and a companion, returning from a climb of Mt. Shuksan, were at the bottom of Fisher’s Chimney. They were standing on a small snow field, planning a climb of ...
Some Clean Wall Climbs in YosemiteBruce Carson25 May 1973Steve,At last! Vindication! You don’t know what I’m talking about? What I mean is that now I know that all our talk about doing long aid climbs on nuts was something other than bull.After mu...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National ReserveThis year we only had four reported climbing accidents. Two of these came to our attention only because the parties involved stopped by the Visitor Center to ask for directions to the hospi...
The Great Canadian Knife — Logan MountainsGalen A. RowellIn 1972, jim McCarthy took me to a place he described as paradise on earth. We were on our way back from failing on the 4000-foot southeast face of the Mooses Tooth in the Alaska Range, and ...
Peaks in the Canadian Rockies above 10,000 feet, with Positions, Altitudes, and Data Regarding First AscentsNameN.LatitudeW.LongitudeAltitudeFirst AscentWhere ReportedAberdeen(“Hazel Peak”) Alberta51°5223’14116°11715’3610,34012,500C1894, Aug. 17.A...
The Mountains of NevadaWELDON F. HEALDT HERE is a small but fast-growing group of Nevada mountain enthusiasts. It consists of those who have discovered that some of our most beautiful and spectacular mountain country is in the Sagebrush State. The...
Lhotse ’75, by Riccardo Cassin and Giuseppe Nangeroni (in Italian).Bologna: Art Grafiche Tamari di Bologna, 1977. 171 pages of text,numerous photographs, drawings and maps. About $15.00.Lhotse ’75 is a book compiled by Riccardo Cassin and G. Nange...
Poi, East Face, True At First Light. In December, Todd Skinner, Steve Bechtel, Scott Milton and I flew to Kenya with the east face of Poi (6,562') as our objective. Strengthening the team were Peter Mallamo, Nic Good, Sandra Studer and Bobby Model...
Northern Cascades, Washington: (1) Monte Cristo District. On the morning of 13 September 1947, a party of four young members of the Mountaineers of Seattle left Monte Cristo by trail to climb the three Wilmon Spires. According to one of them, “Thi...
Nevado del Huila, Cordillera Central. In February, 1969 a U.S.-Colombian party reported good climbing and fine weather on the Nevado del Huila. (A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, p. 419.) Two members of this expedition, Guillermo Cajiao and Phillip Ritterbush, ...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyJeff Hall (29) and Dick Jackson (35) were members of the “Jeff and Dick” expedition. They were flown in to the Southeast Fork of Kahiltna on May 24, 1985. On May 26 they began c...
RAPPEL FAILURE-ACCIDENTAL MANUAL DISENGAGEMENT OF ASCENT DEVICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, NO HARD HATArizona, Phoenix, SaguaroOn April 29, I (Jeff Gertsch, 26) was out in the middle of the desert at my climbing spot alone, ascending a...
K2, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Our joint Polish-Mexican expedition was composed of Lucio Cárdenas, Manuel Casanueva, Antonio Cortés, Hugo Delgado, Enrique Miranda and Eduardo Mosqueda, Mexicans, and Roman Bebak, Dr. Grzegorz Benke, Eugeniusz Chrobak...
Winter Ascent of the Grand Teton. Another winter ascent of the Grand Teton has been reported.* J. D. Lewis made the climb early in March 1949 with his brother Ted and Paul Petzoldt. The ascent was on skis to below the lower saddle and thence on fo...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Candy Morgan, set some ambitious goals and met them well: to continue with improvement in new Leadership Development and Leadership Update programs; to improve curriculum documentation for climbing e...
8000 Meters and MoreWorking out the moves on the routes of the new millenniumby Alexander Huber, GermanyAs we climb into the next millennium, we might ask ourselves, where is our sport going? The end of the 20th century gives us a welcome opportun...
Agdlerussakasit (1,750m), east face, new route on east face; The Butler (900m) and Mark (900m), first ascents. Overlooking Torssukatak Sound the seaward face of Agdlerussakasit, which is possibly one of the largest sea cliffs in the world, leads t...