W.H. Murray: Evidence of Things Not Seen: A Mountaineer's Tale. W.H. Murray. Foreword by Hamish MacInnes. London: Baton Wicks, 2002.352 pages, hardcover. £ 20.00.In 1947, W.H. Murray created an instant classic with his Mountaineering in Scotland. ...
Preface The world has gone crazy for records of all kinds. For that reason I want to say right away that we do not make our ascents for the sake of setting records. It’s simply the case that when you undertake some pursuit for a long time, yo...
Summary of Climbing in the St. Elias Mountains. Climbing activity in the St. Elias Mountains in 1977 was double that of the year before; a total of 98 climbers from 17 expeditions spent nearly 1900 man-days in the Icefield Ranges. The Arctic Insti...
In autumn Urban Golob, Boris Lorencic, Karel Zavrsnik, and I visited the mountains at the head of the Milam Glacier, a relatively little- visited area. After the border closure with China in the 1960s, only Indians were allowed here for many years...
Lixian County, Bipeng Valley, Half Ridge Peak (Banji Feng) (5,430m), north face, first ascent. On May 4 our team made the first successful ascent of Half Ridge Peak (Lat: 31° 14' 41.1", Long: 102° 55' 39") via the north face. This is a semi-techni...
Gorge PlayThree first ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier.Tatsuro YamadaIn March 2007, Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and I made a one-day ascent of a long, classic alpine route on Mt. Hotaka in Japan’s Northern Alps, as preparation fo...
Mount Moran, No Escape Buttress. A new ascent (III, F9), which lies to the right (east) of the original 1962 route, was climbed on August 6, 1977 by Mike Munger, Jim Donini, and Steve Wunsch. This climb, No Survivors Route, has six difficult leads...
Squamish Chief, via “Angel’s Crest”. Hank Mather, Les MacDonald and I made the third major and complete route on the Squamish Chief in a two-day push in June. The “Angel’s Crest”, as we called this major buttress on the north face, involves some 1...
Attempt on Mount St. Elias. Our plans for climbing Mount St. Elias went all right up to a certain point, but then things came unglued. We intended to walk in from the sea to a drop-site under the Haydon ridge and proceed up the route used by the M...
The Alaska Range E. of the Richardson Highway was explored during the summer of 1950 by Austin Post and Gottfried Ehrenburg, of Spokane, Don MacAskill (Sierra Club) and the writer. Base camp was set up at the end of the Castner Glacier, near the R...
Thor Peak, Rainbow Bridge. Allan Pietrasanta and I climbed this route in May. It starts in a long, slender, right-facing book a short distance right of the Principal Dihedral Route. Two pitches lead to a point just below the top of the book where ...
If someone told you he had just run a 10-minute mile you would shrug your shoulders and say “so what.” If someone said he had just run a three-minute mile you would be amazed and skeptical, and a reasonable response would be to ask for evidence. M...
Wind River HolidayBeckett HoworthWe had discovered a new game, guessing where the road would go next. It could be seen only about a hundred yards ahead. It really should have been called an automobile trail instead of a road. Fortunately the stat...
Mont Forel Area, Various Activity. It was reported that a CAF expedition with the goal of making the 50th anniversary of the Expeditions Polaires Francaises to Mont Forel flew to the Femstjernen Glacier via the Bell 212 helicopter provided by Tang...
East Face of Cerro TorreStane Klemenc, Planiska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaANYONE WHO HAS experienced Patagonian weather cannot fail to have doubts, and to fear each day more and more, that good weather will never come.The clouds swirled in, cover...
Broad Peak, Traverse of North, Central and Main Summits. It was reported that Toru Hattori, Toshiyuki Kitamura and Masafumi completed an alpine-style ascent of the traverse of the North Peak (7550 meters), Central Summit (8006 meters), and Main Su...
A Letter HomeThe first free ascent of Linea di Eleganza, Fitz Roy.Topher DonahueFebruary 23, 2006Dear Daddy,A few days ago, when I scattered a few of your ashes at the base of Fitz Roy, I had no idea we’d be going up for another try. Now we’re sta...
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete. Ron Fawcett, with Ed Douglas. Vertebrate Publishing, 2010. 256 pages. Color photographs. Hardcover. £20.00.Strawberries, Lord of the Flies, The Cad. These routes are synonymous with bold standard-pushing and with Ron Fawc...
Central Rockies Section. Thanks to an enthusiastic group of CRS volunteers headed by Rick Casey, the AAC established a high profile presence among the vendors and organizations at the Ouray Ice Festival in January. The AAC tent was well positioned...
Fitz Roy, West Face Attempt, 1981-2. From December 27 to February 17, 1982 we operated in the Fitz Roy area. We were Michal Orolin, leader, Daniel Bakoš, Zdeno Brabec, Vlado Petrik, Dušan Kovac and me. A month later Ivan Fiala, Juraj Weincziller a...