Trisul Attempt. American Arthur B. Ferguson led Griff Smith and Robert Wade to the west face of Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet). They established Base Camp on June 14 and Advance Base on June 20, but the weather in June continued bad and they co...
Alps and Elephants, by Gavin de Beers. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1955. 89 pages; appendices and references; map. Price 10 s 6 d.Gavin de Beers’ very readable re-examination of Hannibal’s route across the Alps begins by testing the original narratives...
More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan. In addition to the people named above, the party was also composed of Alejo Contreras Staeding, Robert Hart, Larry Engel and Peter Miller both from the National Geographic, Barry Berkus and me. Thre...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1988, with membership remaining at 1100. Over 1700 people participated in one of the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps, or foreign expeditions that were from one to four w...
On May 21, Craig Johnson (26) was at the crux move on Intimidation (5.10) trying to place protection, but could not. So he “went for it.” He made the crux and was about to put in protection when he slipped off “polished, moist rock.” He fell 20 ...
Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, attempt. Between October 1 and November 2, Tina Di Batista and I were members of a Slovenian Jubilee expedition to Ama Dablam. The expedition was organized to honor the 30th anniversary of the first Slovenian ascent of a...
Tennessee, Great Smoky Mountains National Park. On May 6, Charles Smith Sample (14) apparently attempted to climb a cliff above The Chimneys camp grounds. He apparently fell over 50 ft. and was dead when found.Source: Newspaper clipping.
Peak 4810, Northwest Face. It was reported that Viktor Komarov, Kostya Sakharov, Anatoli Vinokurov and Alexander Shcherbakov climbed the vertical to overhanging 1200-meter-plus Red Pillar on the northwest face of Peak 4810 in mid-July, 1994. Three...
Aconcagua, First Chilean Winter Ascent. From September 6 to 24 we made the first Chilean winter ascent of Aconcagua. We used skis from 3200 meters in the Horcones valley to the base of the Canaleta at 6800 meters. We climbed the north face, using ...
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. A 62-member team from the Indian Army Assam Rifles, including three women, was led by Major General Prem Lal Kukrety. They left Gangtok on March 8, heading for the northeast face of Kangchenjunga, the route previo...
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, “Pièce de Renaissance.” In mid April during a spell of clear weather, Jon Gatti, John Vargas and I completed this 9-pitch route just left of the climbs, Moro Oro and Full Metal Jacket. Fantastic face cl...
Huandoy Este, 1988. In May, 1988, Adrian Baker and I climbed a new route on the southeast face of Huandoy Este. This direct, 900-meter-high line to the summit had some truly frightening snow formations. We abseiled down the north face.Graham E. Li...
Kl. Doldenhorn. John St. Boalt, of Ohio, joined E. v. Fellen- berg and P. Gosset, of Bern, in an attempt on the Doldenhorn, May 27th, 1862, resulting in the first ascent ofthe lower W. peak. Their guides were Christian Lauener, Johann Bischof and ...
Keeler Needle, East Face. In September 1973 John Weiland and I made a new route on the east face of Keeler Needle. We started on the right side of the face and climbed six pitches all free except for 30 feet up into the base of the huge red dihedr...
New Yosemite Routes. Eric Kohl added four new routes to Yosemite’s walls in 1993. In April, he soloed Indecision Time (VI, 5.7, A4), just east of the Ribbon Falls amphitheater. The eight-pitch route climbs the center of the Hourglass formation and...
Snow Creek Wall. A direct route up the 900-foot Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth was completed by Fred Beckey and Ron Niccoli in two days of climbing. The upper section was featured by a 300-foot solitary crack on a flawless wall that required the...
Everest Post-Monsoon Ascents by a Mexican, Japanese and Koreans. On October 13, Mexican Carlos Carsolio, leader of a four-man team, reached the summit of Everest by the South Col route. That same day and by the same route, Japanese Toichiro Mitani...
Mount Nelson, East Ridge, Southern Purcells. The east ridge of Mount Nelson is the most direct route to the summit starting from Paradise Mine. On June 23 Hans Gyr and I left the mine, followed the ridge and traversed along the southern slopes of ...
Gangapurna Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions to Gangapuma (7455 meters, 24,457 feet) in the post-monsoon period. Eight Spaniards were led by Francisco José Palacios. After getting to 5900 meters on the north face on October 17, the...
FALLING ROCK, DISLODGED ON RAPPEL Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn September 14, 1988, Kelly Hill (20) fractured his ankle when he dislodged a rock while rappelling from West Bluff. (Source: Devil’s Lake State Park)(Editor’s Note: Our thanks t...