EDWARD V. HUNTINGTON 1874-1952Professor Huntington had been a member of the Club since 1932. He had climbed moderately in the Alps, Canadian Rockies, and Selkirks for about thirty years. In the years from 1924 on he and his wife and friends often ...

Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, traverse. I came to Patagonia this year with the primary goal of climbing Torre Egger. After a month of bad weather, at the beginning of February Stefan Siegrist and I made our first attempt. We started...

Monte Rosa, Alps. In the 1955 American Alpine Journal (pages 126 to 132) I have read the article by Guy M. Everett, “A Fight for Life on Monte Rosa.” As he says, he was bound for the “Cresta Rey” of the Dufourspitze. He had “read the scanty detail...

Marmolata, Bugaboos. New Route on South Face. Gilbert Fryklund and I left Boulder Camp early on August 10 with the intention of repeating John Turner’s route (1959) on the south face of Marmolata. (See A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 135.) After looking at...

CEREBRAL EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 27, 1990, a three member Sophia University expedition flew onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier of Mount McKinley to climb the West Buttress. The three inexperien...

Note on the Various Climbing Championships of the C.I.S. The Russian Mountaineering Federation was established in 1982. Preceding and superseding that, the Soviet Mountaineering Federation was the governing body for climbing in the times of the U....

FALSE ALARMArizona, Grand CanyonOn the evening of September 23rd, rangers began a search for hikers who repeatedly activated their rented SPOT satellite-tracking device. The GEOS Emergency Response Center in Houston reported that someone in the gr...

Haramosh. The aim of the Oxford University South Karakoram Expedition was to explore and survey the approaches to Haramosh (24,270 feet). There had been no previous expeditions to this mountain. The party consisted of Tony Streather (leader), of t...

Climbing RopesHelmut F. Microys, Ph.D.Introduction:The following article is not quite the final report of the Rope Deterioration Study undertaken in 974 by the American Alpine Club. Part of the statistical data is still missing. This was done in c...

Kun. Three Italian expeditions attempted to climb Kun in 1989. Only the one led by Massimo Pagani succeeded. Those under the leadership of Giuseppe Enzio and Arturo Bergamaschi (see below) did not get to the summit. French led by F. Rebuffet did g...

Gongga Shan Attempt. Our members were Masayoshi Matsudate, Kiyuharu Ito, Masaharu Moriya, Yasuhiko Matsuta, Yutaka Nakagawa, Kosuke Igawa, Masaki Kawachi, Masaki Hayashi, Shinji Chiba, Seiji Takami, Suguru Kawakami and I as leader. We established ...

BERNARD PIERRE 1920-1997Bernard Pierre was bom in Chelles, France, became a doctor of law and a graduate of the School of Political Science, and became head of the family textile business. From his earliest years, he devoted his leisure time to mo...

There was considerable activity in the Caucausus this past summer, some four expeditions being in the field, two Austrian, one German, and a Polish group.Expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club. This was the largest of the four groups and besides P...

Shipton Spire, Women and Chalk, second ascent and first to summit; Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, not to summit; Trango II, second known ascent; Little Shipton, first ascent. In mid-July a five-man expedition from the Austrian Tyrol, comprising Matt...

GLENN EXUM1911-2000Nothing defined Glenn Exum as enduringly as the harmonies that filled his life. They touched his passion as mountain climber and guide, his profession as music man, his love as husband and father, and his witness to his values o...

FenrisNotes from a dream fulfilled in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.Mike LibeckiDreams? Goals? Fantasies? These words may sound attractive but they mean absolutely nothing. Zilch. Nada. Zero. At least not without their most important ingredient: abs...

Annapurna I (8,091m), east ridge, tragedy. At the start of spring the famous Spanish mountaineer, 41-year-old Ignacio Ochoa de Olza, known to the climbing world as Iñaki Ochoa, had only Annapurna I and Kangchenjunga left in his campaign to reach t...

Mazamas. The Mazamas found the weather very unkind in 1959. Not for many years have so many climbs been stormed off. Rainier, Whitehorse, Lincoln, Lacrosse, Adams, Diamond Peak, Unicorn Peak, and several climbs on nearby Mount Hood were all blanke...

Yosemite Valley, Various Ascents. For the third year in a row, action on the Salathé Wall led the headlines. This time, it was Yuji Hirayama (Japan) who stole the show with attempts to on sight the entire route. Training for weeks in Yosemite, Hir...

STRANDED—UNABLE TO FIND DESCENT ROUTE California, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point TerraceOn October 30, 1994, John Dunn (22) and Dan Cappellini (25), both of Ft. Collins, CO, climbed to the Oasis on Glacier Point via Cold Fusion, Point Beyond, and ...