Overlord and Tête des Cirques. Ken Scott and I met in Montreal on July 3 and flew to Pangnirtung the following day. After two days in Pangnirtung we traveled by freight canoe to the boundary of Auyuittuq National Park. We climbed Overlord Peak (48...
Mt. Formidable, complete East Ridge. On July 30 Kurt Buchwald and I completed the ridgecrest traverse (IV 5.7) from the Spider-Formidable Col to the summit of Mt. Formidable. From the Spider-Formidable col at 7,350', we moved northwest and around ...
Alpamayo, Chacraraju Oeste and Other Peaks. Viktor Jaralím, Miroslav Svoboda, Václav Zajíc and I on June 1 in five hours climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo by the Italian route. We also ascended Chacraraju Oeste from June 10 to 12 by the Bouch...
The Mummer, Cuerno Oriental, and the Sharksfin, Various Activity. During March and April of 1998, Tom Bauman, Alan Kearney and Jack Lewis climbed in Patagonia and performed clean-up work with the help of a grant from Polartec. On March 24, Bauman ...
The Cross Country Ski Book by Johnny Caldwell. The Stephen Greene Press, Brattleboro, Vt., 1964. 80 pages, 39 illustrations. Price, paperbound, $1.95, hardbound, $3.50.The popular concept of skiing has changed greatly — narrowed — during the two d...
South Peak of Mount Ogilvie, Northern Boundary Ranges. On August 29 Alf Pinchak and I made the first ascent of the south peak of Mount Ogilvie (7500 feet). The main peak had previously been ascended. From our camp on a cleaver overlooking the Vaug...
South Tower of Howser Spire, East Face. Of all Bugaboo peaks, the fabulous South Tower had been woefully neglected by climbers and had not been climbed in twenty years. It was the only Bugaboo peak with but one route. To Yvon Chouinard and me, ten...
Koteswar and P 20,214. A ten-man team from Giganta was led by Asok K. Roy Chowdhury. Unprecedented floods forced all other expeditions out of the region but this group pressed on to reach Base Camp at 15,500 feet at the confluence of the Raktvarn ...
Noshaq Ski Expedition. Dr. Roland Schulz, leader of the expedition of the Academic Alpine Club of Innsbruck, had to escort back to Kabul their doctor, Jörg Schmidl, who had contracted encephalitis. Meanwhile, on July 11, Karl Gabl, Gerd Ganter, Ge...
Fortress, You Enjoy Myself. On a rainy July 20 Pat Goodman and I, with financial support from a Balance Bar Grant, were helicoptered into the Vampire Spires, getting dropped off 30m from what would be our home for the next 24 days. We immediately ...
Wrinkled Lady, South Face. Looking north from Whitney Portal, one can see a prominent pyramid crossing the ridge, deeply corrugated with vertical cracks and books. Joe Brown and I made a direct climb from the roadhead on May 24 and 25, 1969. Becau...
Mountain Passages, by Jeremy Bernstein. Lincoln, Nebraska: University of Nebraska Press, 1979. 278 pages. Price $12.50.In Mountain Passages, Jeremy Bernstein has collected eight of his articles —previously published in the New Yorker, the New York...
Ancohuma, Illampu, Haucaña, Cordillera Real. Our expedition of 19 Aus- trians left La Paz on July 25 for Millipaya. From there we went by truck to Mina Ancohuma. The next morning we traversed for two hours to Base Camp at 4500 meters below the Nev...
Battle Range, Southern Selkirks. A party of 14, plus the notorious canine alpinist, Chugach, under the leadership of Bill Putnam, visited the Melville group of the Battle Range in August. Notable accomplishments were the reconstruction of the Glac...
Aguja Mermoz, Northwest Face, Second Ascent. Raúl Storino, Guillermo Raynié and I made the second ascent of Aguja Mermoz by the northwest face. From Base Camp at Piedra del Fraile we went to our first bivouac at the foot of the rock bands on which...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineTom Striker and Tony Tulip, hiked up in to Tuckerman Ravine on November 29. The first in the ravine, they hiked to the base of an open book on the right...
On the Brink on Broad PeakCarlos Carsolio, MexicoBlackest night, silence … As Iapproach the edge, I feel frustrated by my sluggishness. I unconsciously tighten my grip on the shafts of my ice tools. The beam of my headlamp is lost in the unending ...
Areri and Chuchubalstering, Various Ascents. Also in the Hindu Raj massif (see above) was a group selected from previous members of the Jeunes Alpinistes FFME. Accompanied by Emmanuel Guy, they profited from the logistics of the UIAA expedition wh...
Crossing the Northern Continental Icecap. The expedition of Rokko Jesuit High School in Kobe consisted of Isao Ikawa, Mimio Matsunaga, Shuji Iwata, Hiroyuki Maekawa and myself as leader. On December 22, 1968 we all gathered in Puerto Eden and wait...
Paddle to the Peaks Expedition, first ascents between Maniitsoq and the Evigkels Fjord. Althea Rogers, Kelly Ryan, and I spent 65 days exploring the magnificent region between Kangerlussuaq and Maniitsoq. Mountains here rise directly from the sea,...