Petit Dru, West Face DirettissimaJohn Harlin*I started mixed climbing of an Alpine standard at an early age and found it much to my personal taste. I had never been very interested in pure rock climbing, despite its challenge; but a few years ago ...
Cho OyuVera KomarkovaDINA AND I MET up in Bangkok; she had arrived circuitously from Czechoslovakia and I from Antarctica, where I had been doing research, with a three-day stopover in Boulder, Colorado. In sunshine, we flew together to Kathmandu,...
PROTECTION BOLT PULLED OUTWest Virginia, Meadow RiverLate in the day on June 23, a bolt pulled out while a climber was lowering off a sport route. The climber struck the ground and broke his leg.The accident took place at a crag along the Meadow R...
Mount Dall Attempt, Alaska Range. In 1902 after a spectacular expedition up the Yentna River, during which he sighted the 8756-foot peak, Alfred Hulse Brooks named Mount Dall in honor of Henry Healy Dall (1845-1927): “one of the foremost students,...
JAMES MONROE THORINGTON1894-1989James Monroe Thorington, born in Philadelphia on October 7, 1894, died in nearby Germantown on November 29, 1989, at the age of 95. Roy, as his friends called him, was not only a distinguished opthalmologist, writer...
BURGE BICKFORD1906–1975September 1975 ended almost a lifetime of adventure in the mountains for Burge Bickford.His first ventures were with his father who was a guide in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire. Joining the Mountaineers in 1936 and...
Makalu (8,485m), west face, attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), west face, new route. Our three-man expedition, which ran from September 12 to November 15, was plagued by difficulties from start to finish. We made two attempts to climb the west face of M...
Mt. Foraker, North Face, and Circumnavigation. Historically, getting to the north side of Mt. Foraker has been a serious endeavor. The conditions of the terrain during the climbing season tend to be horrible; there is usually poor-quality snow, ra...
Climb: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, Bob Godfrey. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, second edition, 2002.200 b&w photos. 256 pages. Hard cover: $44.95. Paperback: $29.95.The Rocky Mountain’s Front Range a...
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East. We'd spotted it while making day hikes toward the Cho La (pass). Ice in the back of a prominent weakness cau...
Cerro StanhardtJames BridwellFIVE DAYS AFTER LEAVING LOS ANGELES, Elisa Moran, Greg Smith, Jay Smith and I arrived at Fitz Roy National Park in the heart of Patagonia, the promised land. The promise is bad weather, but that of course allowed us ti...
Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expeditions joined the fray in 2004 to continue their efforts to locate the famous British cl...
Colorado, Mt. Blanca—On June 18, 14 members of the Los Alamos Mountaineers were camped below the N. Face of Mt. Blanca (14,364 feet). Plans called for the main party to ascend the NE ridge; two members (H. Hoyt, S. Landeen) elected to climb to the...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Red PeakOn August 5, John Wood (20) and Christina Moir (28) had climbed to the ridge from the west side of Red Peak and came to the top of the couloir. Wood had glissaded the slope bef...
Logan Mountains. Geoff Spedding and I spent five weeks of June and July climbing in the Ragged Range of the Logan Mountains, followed by two weeks on the South Nahanni and Liard rivers, which we descended to Fort Simpson. We flew in by jet helicop...
Mt. Sanford: An Alaskan Ski ClimbTerris MooreMT. SANFORD is remarkable because of its unique shape. Although presenting precipitous cliffs from the edge of its 16,206-ft. summit toward the S. and E. where it faces the rest of the Wrangell Range, i...
Peak 8,680', Ascent. On August 26, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew Mike Loso and me to the 4,500-foot level of the upper Bremner Glacier. We spent the 27th and 28th checking out peaks in the area for routes and moving camp five and a half ...
First ascents from valleys east of Nam Tso. I spent 23 days from November 9 to December 1 climbing in an area of the Western Nyanchen Tanglha not far from Samdain Kangsang (6,590m), the main peak in this area. I reached this region from Lhasa in l...
Reconnaissance of Dhaula IV (Dhaulagiri IV). Our small expedition, consisting of James Roberts, four Sherpa porters and a liaison officer, left Pokhara with 20 Tamang porters on September 10. Rain fell daily. Marching past Baglung and Beni and the...
Colorado, Royal Gorge. A party consisting of Bob LaGrange, Bob Stafford, and Jim Disney had planned to climb the Carson City Buttress underneath the bridge across the Royal Gorge. M. E. Horn, Jr. and Charlie Love were also interested in this same ...